Growing topiaries is a hobby that has been around for a long time.You can grow topiaries with shrubs or vines to create sculptures that are a variety of shapes and sizes.Simple shapes like cones and spheres are easy to create on your own, but you can use a wire frame to help with the perfect shape.We will walk you through the details for each type separately, since the process for shrub and vine topiaries is different.
Step 1: A shrub with dense, small leaves is a good choice.
The best shrubs for topiaries are dense.You can start training and shaping young shrubs by buying them.There are many great options, including juniper, privet, yew, boxwood, myrtle, and holly.The boxwood and yew shrubs are ideal for beginners.The leaves of boxwood grow very close together.Yews have glossy, dark green needles rather than leaves.
Step 2: There are structures that block the light so choose a sunny location.
yew and boxwood can tolerate full shade, partial shade and full sun, but they prefer to get a few hours of light each day.Topiary shrubs need to get equal amounts of sunlight on all sides, so stay away from any structures that might block sunlight.It's a good idea to avoid growing a topiary next to your house.Boxwood do well in full sun if the soil is fertile.If you grow yew in a hot climate, put it in partial shade.They don't like heat, but are hardy.Check the nursery tag for special light or soil needs for other shrubs.
Step 3: Pick a container that has drainage holes and fill it with regular potting soil.
If the container provides adequate drainage, topiary shrubs are great for container plants.If there aren't many drainage holes in your container, drill a few more in the bottom.The planter should be at least one-third the size of the shrub.If your shrub is 3 feet tall, use a container that is at least 30 cm deep.Look into the soil needs for your shrub type if you are planting directly in the ground.Boxwood and yews are tolerant of most types of soil.Compost can be used to amend the soil and create better drainage.
Step 4: Pack the soil around the root ball by placing it into it.
Remove the shrub from the nursery pot and gently loosen the roots with a soil knife or your fingers.Place the root ball in a hole that is wide enough to hold it and fill it with more soil.
Step 5: If the leaf tips turn brown, keep the soil moist and fertile.
You can check the soil by touching it.Don't let the soil dry out if it feels dry.These shrubs need water to grow their foliage.If you notice leaves getting brown or copper at the tips, feed the plant withfertilizer.Water-soluble houseplant fertilization can be applied at the base of the shrub.Most shrubs work well with a regular 10-10-10 fertilization.Every spring, apply organic mulch around the shrub.
Step 6: Take immediate action to control the Box Blight.
You can treat problems fast if you keep an eye on boxwood and yews.The best way to keep your shrubs healthy is to remove broken, dying, or sickly branches as soon as you see them.Box Blight is a common disease.If you see leaves turning brown and falling off, bare patches, or black streaks on your shrubs, it's a sign of box Blight.The treatments include cutting away affected areas and removing leaves from the base.Remove the surface of the top soil and replace it with fresh soil.It's a good idea to bag all the material and dispose of it.tebuconazole and triticonazole can be applied, but aren't effective unless combined with other techniques.
Step 7: Repot your shrub in a bigger container.
The growth of your shrub will slow down if it gets root bound.The shrub's container needs to be upgraded every few years.Go with a container that is at least one-third the size of the shrub.
Step 8: A simple shape for a shrub.
Pick a shape that won't be difficult to create and look at your shrub's natural form.The best shapes for beginners are spheres, cubes, cones, and spirals because they are easy to maintain.If your shrub is long and lean, don't force it into a sphere.Go for something that works with the natural shape of the object.Once you get the hang of topiaries, you can get more ambitious.Simple shapes are easier to cut.
Step 9: Cut off the other upright shoots by tying the main stem to a stake.
The dominant stems are the upright shoots.Pick the upright shoot to be the main stem because you can easily control its shape.The shoot is positioned well for your intended shape.Attach the main stem to the stake with a piece of cloth or twine.Cut off the upright shoots from the main stem.Before and after each use, always use sharp shears.You should sharpen your shears on a regular basis.
Step 10: If you need help shaping the shrub, place a wire frame over it.
A wire frame is not necessary for a simple geometric shape, but it can make the process easier for more intricate designs, like fairies or mushrooms.Put the wire frame over the shrub and stick the feet into the soil.The wire frame is easy to fit over the shrub.You can either put it over the shrub or leave it in place as part of the sculpture.Pruning away any growth around the frame is done in the early stages.The shrub grows around and obscures the frame if you leave it in place.Pick up a wire frame at your local nursery.If you want to grow several shrubs with the same shape, you can use a frame or guide.
Step 11: New leaf growth can be clipped into a shape in the late spring.
It is easy to spot new foliage growth because it is a lighter shade of green.The general shape can be started with sharp shears.To remove foliage, clip individual stems and leaves.If you want to keep the blades parallel with the mature growth, trim away the longest shoots first.Go on to smaller shoots.Start at the top and work your way down to the bottom.Start at the base of the plant and work your way up to the top.You don't want to make big, hacking cuts when you're trimming a tree.Over multiple sessions, small changes take shape.
Step 12: As you work, stand back frequently and check your work.
Stand back from time to time and survey your work, whether you're using a wire frame or free-hand.Is the cone balanced?Is the spiral straight?The sphere is rounded at the best angle.Pruning stimulates growth.If you make a cut, there will be growth in that spot.At this point, it's likely that your young shrub has gaps or holes.This is normal.Over the years, the gaps and holes will be filled.
Step 13: Prune again in the summer and fall.
If there is at least 1 in 2.5 cm of new growth, you can trim the shrub.Continue to make small cuts to remove and shape new growth with sharp, long-handled shears.To navigate smaller areas, use sharp scissors.You don't want to cut off whole stems at this point.If your shrub has a lot of empty spots, it's a good idea to trim the ends of the stems to encourage growth in the coming months.Pruning in the fall prepares the shrub for winter.
Step 14: Slowly remove the lower shoots during each session.
The upright shoots will continue to grow as the shrub gets bigger.You want to keep the main stem the central focus, so cut away the lower shoots and foliage during eachPruning Session until the Main Stem reaches your desired height.This may take a long time.
Step 15: For a few years, keep this schedule in mind.
The key to a great looking topiary is slow, careful shaping.If your shrub isn't getting enough air circulation because it's not time for a full pruning session, you can always trim a little here and there.Pruning should be reduced once or twice a year once the shrub is mature.You do not have to follow this schedule strictly, but use it as a general guideline.
Step 16: English ivy is a hardy perennial vine that can be used for a topiary project.
Perennial and annual vines are the two types of vines.Perennials live for years while annuals die after a year.Perennials are the way to go since topiaries are long-term projects.English ivy is a good choice for beginners since it is relatively low maintenance.Actinidia Bittersweet is one of the good options.
Step 17: A container with good drainage and regular soil is a good buy.
Don't forget to check the bottom of the container for drainage holes.You can always drill a few into the container yourself if there aren't any.Pick a planter with some weight to it so it won't tip over.If you are growing an unfussy vine like English ivy, Houseplant potting soil is a good choice.It is possible to grow vine topiaries outside, but an indoor container project is a good choice for beginners.
Step 18: Pick a wire form to grow your vines.
A circular-shaped wire form, which you can buy pre-made at any nursery or home improvement store, is the easiest option for a beginner.Make sure the legs are long enough to reach the bottom of the container you picked out, and choose a frame that has at least 2 legs.Other popular shapes are hearts, cones, and pyramids.If you want to make your own form, use heavy-duty galvanized wire.As long as the container can accommodate it, this form can be any size or shape you want.
Step 19: Put the wire frame in the container with the soil.
Put the mix in your container and fill it to the rim.To poke the legs into the soil, center the wire form over the container.The legs should reach the bottom of the container if the form is pushed down firmly.The base of the form needs to be above the soil's surface.
Step 20: The ivy or young vine plants should be planted at the base of the wire legs.
To plant ivy, follow the directions given to you.Young vines that are tall enough to wrap around the wire legs should be planted close to each other.After you get the vines in the soil, give them some water.
Step 21: Weave the vines around the wire legs.
Pull each vine around one of the legs and wind it around the wire frame as far as possible.If the vines don't stay in place by themselves, tie them to the wire form with twine or string.Don't worry, the way the twine looks is what you should like.You can remove the twine once the vines are established.
Step 22: A pair of gardening shears can be used to trim stray leaves.
If the vines are a bit bushy and not conforming to the wire form, cut off any straggling leaves and stems to create a more defined shape.Sharp shears can be used to make cuts.
Step 23: To encourage growth, pinch at each intersection.
It's easy to prune vines.The main stem intersects with the stem that was pinch off.To conform to the shape, bend the new stems around the wire frame.To maintain the shape, trim off short, thin, or skimpy vines.Continue pinching until the vines fill the frame.
Step 24: To keep growth under control, Prune your vines often.
Vines can grow quickly and overtake an area.This is true for English ivy.If you want to control the shape, you need to keep an eye on new growth.Attach vines to the wire frame with twine or string.
Step 25: There is plenty of bright, indirect sunlight when you put the container in the spot.
English ivy is a vine that can't tolerate direct sunlight.You can find a window that faces north, east or west.They won't grow as quickly or look as colorful if forced to grow in low or medium light.The vines will grow uniformly if the container is changed every 2 weeks.If you are growing something other than English ivy, make sure you check the light needs.
Step 26: It is possible to maintain a temperature of 50–70 F (10–21C) in a spot.
English ivy prefers cooler temperatures.It's best to aim for somewhere between 50–70 F (10–21C) during the day and 5-10 degrees lower at night.You can easily create moderate humidity by filling a shallow tray with pebbles and water.If you aren't able to do this, your vines should be okay.Don't put your vines near heat sources.
Step 27: In between waterings, dry the soil to a depth of 2 in.
Allow the soil to dry completely before watering, then water each vine thoroughly at the base.If you stick your finger in the soil, you can see if it is dry.Since your vines won't tolerate water-logged soil, be careful not to water too frequently.There are signs of overwatering that include yellow leaves and lower leaves falling off.It is equally important to prevent the roots from drying out if you want to overwater.
Step 28: Slow-release fertilize should be applied monthly to the vines.
fertilize in the spring and fall when vines are growing.Slow-release plant food, watersolublefertilizer for houseplants, and plant spikes are all viable options for delivering nutrition.It is a good idea to use a regular 10-10 fertilizer.When the vines stop growing, don't fertilize.