There's more to concrete than just pouring it out.You need to know how to shape and smooth fresh concrete into an attractive surface.If you want to finish on a hot day, try to move quickly except where noted otherwise.
Step 1: The concrete should be poured.
If you don't know how to pour concrete, follow the linked instructions.As soon as you pour, move on to the next step.
Step 2: Only if necessary will the concrete be compressed.
Modern concrete mixes don't need to be compressed or "tamped" before they finish, and the wrong mix can weaken the slab.You should confirm your decision with a professional.Simply press the concrete down using any variety of tools.).
Step 3: The 2x4 needs to be placed across the concrete.
You can find the straightest lumber 2x4 by crossing the barriers holding the concrete in place.The 2x4 should go past the forms in each direction.The object is referred to as a.
Step 4: The 2x4 is used to level the concrete.
The 2x4 can be moved down the forms to remove excess concrete.You can use a sawing motion to pull and push the 2x4 across the concrete.As you level the surface, sawing motion helps prevent tearing.To create a thin cutting edge, tilt the leading edge away from the direction of travel.At all times, keep a 1 inch hump of concrete in front of the edge.There are holes in the concrete's surface.For larger projects, pour and level in stages.At the end of the slab, push the excess concrete against the forms for easy removal.
Step 5: Prepare by using a bull float.
The bull float is a flat, long-handled tool used to flatten minor ridges and holes, as well as embedded aggregate particles further into the concrete, bringing the smoother "cream" consistency concrete to the surface for better finishing.The bull float should have rounded ends.Square floats will make smoothing out the concrete more difficult.The leveling board should be moved so that the bull floats back and forth across the slab.The bull float should be moved between the two forms the 2x4 was resting on.Lift the leading edge to create a smaller cutting edge of contact, lifting the tool toward you when pushing and away from you.The handle on some bull floats will lift the tool when you turn it.The edge of the tool should be level with the concrete.If you finish this process, the water will not leak onto the concrete's surface.
Step 6: It is possible to use an alternative tool.
A magnesium float is the same tool as a bull float for smaller projects.A helicopter is a powered tool used on large projects.When the whole surface has been covered twice, move the magnesium float back and forth in arcs.A power float requires two people to place it on a slab, but only one to operate it.If you want to avoid damaging the concrete's edge, stay near the center of the slab.
Step 7: Use a small tool to tidy the corners.
An edging tool is used to create level edges and corners next to the form, where the larger bull float or magnesium float is less accurate.The concrete's appearance will be improved by this.Before moving on to the next, use a back-and-forth motion in a small area.Lift the leading edge of the tool.Pressing too deeply into the concrete can make it difficult to remove.
Step 8: Take the grooves out of the concrete.
The appearance and function of the concrete are minimally affected by these.The concrete's depth should be cut 25% by these.It should be no more than 24 times the thickness of the slab.To calculate this, double the thickness of your slab in inches and use that measurement as feet.A slab of 10 cm should have no more than 8 joints.Every inside corner of your slab and every corner that touches a building or step should have a control joint that extends from it, as these are common cracking locations.Use a straightedge or snap line to lightly mark the joints before cutting.A tool that works well is a grooving tool.If your concrete is already starting to crack, use a dry-cut saw to cut the desired depth.Extra large projects can be marked with a long-handled marking tool.
Step 9: Wait for the concrete to dry.
It takes experience to learn the correct timing for concrete, since its drying speed depends on many factors such as the mix and the local temperature and humidity.Excess "bleed water" will rise to the surface as the concrete sets.The shine of the concrete has begun to disappear after the water has evaporated.Wait longer if the concrete is still wet and forms ridges when you move on to the next step.Throw more water onto the concrete's surface if it becomes too hard to finish.This is a last resort and will result in weakness and scaling in the final slab.
Step 10: You can apply a color hardener.
If you are coloring your concrete using a powder that adds color to the top layer, apply this in the amount specified on the label while the concrete still has a full wet shine.It will need a little more drying before you get to the next stage.Only use on horizontal surfaces and with proper safety equipment.
Step 11: With a hand float, smooth and compact the surface again.
The final smoothing brings the more consistent "cream" of the concrete to the surface for a level, durable finish.Magnesium floats are very popular among professionals, since they are lightweight and excellent at opening up the concrete's pores for evaporation.Compared to magnesium, aluminum floats are a little heavier and stronger.Wooden floats are cheap but wear out quickly.A rough fuzzy surface is useful for very stiff concrete or colored hardeners, which need to be mixed in with the rougher tool.For the same purposes as wood, laminated-canvas floats are a much more durable and expensive tool.Lift the leading edge and make small motions across the surface.
Step 12: A trowel finish is something to consider.
A lot of people skip troweling if they plan to broom.Troweling without brooming results in a very slick surface and may cause cracks to form called "crazing".The same way you used previous finishing tools, use a magnesium trowel.You can create a very smooth finish by passing over the slab two or three times, waiting for the concrete to dry slightly between passes and lifting the leading edge a little more each time.It is possible to use steel trowels, but they could cause the steel to trap water inside the concrete and damage it.Too deep troweling or air-entrained concrete mixes can cause the concrete's air bubbles to be released and prevent it from setting correctly.The term "fresnos" is sometimes used for larger troweling tools.You can reach the center of large slabs with these.When you need to be on the slab, kneel on wooden boards and use a hand trowel.
Step 13: Try a broom.
A broom finish creates a non-slip surface.With or without a trowel finish, you can do this.The wide rectangular kind of shop broom is medium stiff or stiff.The concrete should be soft enough to be shaped by the bristles, but not so soft that it will sink back together.Shake off the excess by dipping the broom into a bucket of water.In segments, gently drag the broom over the concrete.To ensure full coverage, overlap the previous segment.The grooves in the direction liquids are supposed to flow should be created if the surface is intended to drain.
Step 14: Cure the concrete
The final drying process of concrete takes several weeks, and ifcured at the correct rate, it will not cause damage later.The simplest way to cover the concrete's surface is to wet it.Use heavy objects to weigh down the sheet's edges.There are many other ways to keep the concrete wet, but they require more water or maintenance than plastic.Professional jobs use concrete curing chemicals.It's a good idea to consult someone familiar with your concrete mix for advice on which one to choose.Cure as soon as possible.If you start, keep off foot traffic for 24 hours, light vehicles such as bicycles for a week, and cars for 2 weeks.It takes at least 30 days to cure at the corners and edges.
Step 15: The concrete needs to be sealed.
After the concrete has cured for at least a month, use a concrete Sealer to make it resistant to liquid damage and easy to clean.Before starting, make sure the concrete is clean and dry.Before applying sealant, clean the slab.To avoid puddles, apply thinly.Wait a couple hours and then apply a second layer to the first.Before walking over or placing something on the concrete, allow the sealant to dry completely.Allow vehicle traffic after three days.