The denser, stronger, and harder type of wood fiber board is called hardboard.Hardboard is great for a wide range of do-it-yourself uses because it is so strong.You can cut fiberboard with a utility knife or a power saw.You can use a hand saw if you take the time to prepare the cut.
Step 1: The hardboard should be on the unfinished surface.
A concrete garage floor, driveway, or basement floor is a good choice.If you are cutting a small piece of hardboard, you can use a workbench.If you plan to use the rough side as the show side, lay the board smooth-side up.Cutting on top of concrete will make your knife dull quicker.While the blades are easy to switch out, you can protect your blade by laying a large sheet of cardboard underneath the hardboard.
Step 2: To hold a straight edge against your cut line, mark it.
Measure your cuts with a tape measure, then use a pencil and a straight edge to mark them.Keep the straight edge in place right up alongside the marked cut line, and press down firmly on it with your hand or foot.When you flip the board over, keep your pencil lines over the edges.A large T-square can be used in place of a straight edge.It takes some practice to cut with a utility knife and you can try to make curved and shaped cuts.You might have more success with a piece of furniture.
Step 3: The blade should be run lightly along the line.
You want to score the hardboard along the cut line with your first pass of the blade.Use only light pressure, keep the blade right up against the straight edge, and cut in a single, smooth, steady motion.Don't stop and start when using a utility knife.The whole cut should be completed in one motion.Keep the straight edge in place by maintaining firm pressure.
Step 4: Take 4-5 more passes of the knife blade to deepen the cut.
Put the tip of the blade into the channel you created by scoring the board.The second cut should be pressed down a bit more firmly.Press a little harder each time to make more total cuts.The straight edge can be removed after the second or third pass of the blade.The channel should be deep enough to keep your blade straight.
Step 5: The process should be repeated on the other side.
You will cut a deep channel most of the way through the board, but not all of it.To flip the board over, draw another pencil line, and repeat the cutting process is one option.You will have cut through the board after a few passes of the blade.Make sure the pencil lines are on the same side of the board.To help guide the placement of the cutting line on the underside, use the pencil lines that you ran over the edges.
Step 6: Lift and bend the board and cut through the other side.
You can bend the board along the cut line after a few passes on the top side.Lift the board up on its side, then use your knee and hand to bend it away from the cut line.You can finish the cut by running your blade along the corner you created on the underside of the board.This is the same process as cutting through a sheet of drywall with a utility knife.
Step 7: On the smooth side of the board, mark your cuts with a pencil.
You want the rougher side of the sheets to be the finish side.When you make your cuts, mark your cut lines in pencil on this side and keep it facing up.Straight cut lines can be made using a tape measure and a straight edge.You can see your pencil lines when you flip the board over.Measure twice and cut once.
Step 8: On the rough side of the board, run masking tape opposite the cut lines.
You can use the pencil marks you ran over the edges of the board to guide you.Stick a strip of masking tape over the cut line on the opposite side of the board.As the power saw blades cut through the hardboard, they can splinter the surface.The tape protects against this.If you are cutting straight lines or gentle curves, you should use tape.If you want to make sharper curves or more intricate cut patterns, you can use a sheet of particle board to the underside of the hardboard.
Step 9: Attach the board to the surface.
If you plan to cut the overhanging edge of the bench, lay the board on a level workbench.Use two where the board's overhang starts, and at least two more elsewhere, if possible, to secure the bench and hardboard.If you are using a table saw, make sure the board is aligned with the slit where the saw emerges during cutting.It's crucial to smooth, accurate cuts with less splintering.C-clamps, which you screw and unscrew to tighten and loosen, are both good choices.
Step 10: Use a safety blade.
Choose a blade with many, fine, and evenly-spaced teeth if you are using a table saw, circular saw or jigsaw.The blade will slice through the board without causing splintering.Along with following all necessary safety measures, take the time to choose the right blade.Check the manufacturer's website for information on choosing and changing saw blades.Wear long sleeves, remove all dangling jewelry and clothing, and tie back long hair when using a power saw.
Step 11: Make each cut start-to-finish with the same pace and pressure.
It is important to move slowly and steadily, and to allow the saw to do the cutting instead of trying to force it through the hardboard.When using a jigsaw, start with the blade at the edge of your cut line, squeeze thetrigger to start the saw, and guide it slowly and evenly along the line.If you want to make curved or shaped cuts, a jigsaw is your best option.When using a circular saw, you need to line up the blade at the edge of the cut line and squeeze it to slice through the board.Make sure you don't press down on the saw.When using a table saw, use the fence and both hands to guide the wood through the stationary, spinning blade that lifts up from the slit in the table.Work slowly and carefully, and use a pusher instead of your guide hand.
Step 12: The cut lines need to be smoothed with medium-grit sandpaper.
You will end up with a few rough spots and splinters even if you tape the underside of the board.To smooth these out, run a sheet or block of medium-grit sandpaper back and forth a few times.Follow up with fine-grit sandpaper for a smooth finish.
Step 13: Place the particle board under the hardboard.
The same process for measuring, marking, and clamping down the hardboard is used for both a power saw and hand saw.sandwich a sheet of 0.25 in (0.64 cm) thick particle board between the hardboard and your workbench, instead of running masking tape along the underside of the cut line.Use a pencil, measuring tape, and straight edge to mark your cut lines, then use at least two spring clamps or C-clamps to secure the board firmly to a flat workbench.The section on cutting with a power saw has more information on measuring, marking, and clamping down hardboard.The hardboard has teeth that rip into it when you cut it.The hardboard will be spared from the ripping motion of the saw if the particle board is put on the underside.
Step 14: Make sure your cut line is straight by attaching a scrap of lumber.
It is not easy to cut a straight line using a hand saw.To help out, use two spring clamps or C-clamps to secure a straight piece of scrap lumber against the cut line.This will help you keep your cut straight.A piece of 1 in 3 in is a good choice.
Step 15: There was a full cut through the hardboard.
At the far edge of your cut line, hold the saw blade at a 45 degree angle.Start cutting with a smooth, steady, even rhythm by making two small upward strokes.Don't lift the saw out of the channel and then try to start again, keep going until you complete the cut.A smooth cut with a handsaw will leave some rough edges on the hardboard.If necessary, smooth them out with a mixture of medium and fine-grit sandpaper.