Grey wash stain on pine barn door, grey stained wood, Stained...Leigh Country TX 93728 Cooler with Grey Wash Stain on Pine Wood...
I told y'all a week or so ago that I was planning on building my own dining table since I couldn't find what I wanted in a price I could afford.The table from Williams-Sonoma that expands from 72 inches to 116 inches and seats up to 10 people is my inspiration.
As soon as I can get the walls finished in my dining room, I will be ready to start building my table, because the table legs and table slides that I ordered from Osborne Wood Products were delivered this week.
I always worry about the final finishing steps when I work with pine to build something nice.I think I can build a table.The easy part will be that.Getting the finish right will be a challenge.A warm medium brown finish is what I want my table to end up with.Emily has a kitchen table.
You understand the idea, right?I like the look of it but I don't want it to be rustic.That makes sense to me.
The table in that warm brown tone is what I want.I will be building my table out of pine.It's just plain, simple and cheap.I am not sure if you have ever tried to stain a new pine.I use a wood conditioner followed by a dark stain.It is easier to cover up the crazy yellow and orange grain.I like to use Rust-Oleum wood stain on pine because it will dry completely in a relatively short amount of time, and you can cover up a lot of that crazy pine grain.You can not do that with Minwax.It will never dry.
It doesn't work with light and medium-toned stains on pine.No matter how much wood conditioner, or how many coats of medium or light stain I use, that awful grain is still there.Yesterday, I tried out a number of different methods to see what I could come up with, and I think I found a way to stain pine with a medium-toned brown color that looks somewhat aged, while minimizing all of that yellow and orange grain!
I know you can achieve pretty finishes on pine with paints and waxes.I will never, ever, live with a dining table that has a wax top on it again, because I don't want to do any kind of painted faux finish on my new table.I wouldn't consider wax for a table that is used often.Water-based polyurethane is not an option for me.When it gets wet, it drives me crazy that water-based poly clouds up.I know it clears when it dries out, but I wouldn't use it on a dining table.I wanted to come up with something that gave a medium-toned aged finish, minimized the crazy pine grain, and had a durable oil-based finish on top.It should be easy.
I am pretty sure that the last one is what I want.You can see some grain, but it doesn't turn into a crazy color and is more aged than stained.
There's a word about the homemade stain.I only used it for three hours.I was certain it wouldn't do anything, as I've read that it should sit for at least 24 hours.After wiping the solution off the wood, I decided to try something else.
I tried to duplicate the look of sample #6 without using the solution, but it didn't look as good as I wanted it to.I tried it again with the solution about four hours old, and it looked like sample 6.It is possible to use the solution after only three or four hours.After letting it sit for 24 hours, I will try it again today.
I liked the effect of the dark wax on the samples.I like the way it settles into the low places and gives it a nice aged look, but I prefer the more subtle look of the last one.
Here is a look at the last three samples that all used the Annie Sloan Dark Wax in comparison to my control sample.I was afraid that my whole table would look like that stain-only sample was terrible.
The stain-only sample is compared to my favorite sample.It is a night and day difference.
I decided to test my method on a piece of Select Pine lumber because I wanted to be sure that my last sample was legit.The lumber is straight and has no knots in it.It has crazy pine grain.
I took a piece of Select Pine and put a stain on it.I compared that to my first sample.
Terrible.Both of them.The Select Pine sample looks like someone did a faux bois technique on it.It almost looks fake to me, but it is.It is crazy pine grain.
I did the four-step process that I used on sample #6 after flipping the board over.What a change!
If I had added one more thin coat of stain before the polyurethane, I think it would have reduced the grain even more.
I am going to try one more sample today, but I think I have found the perfect way to get the color I want while getting rid of crazy pine grain!I think this will work on my table.
It took me three more years to find a way to make a stained finish on cheap pine.I made a bathroom countertop out of pine, and I am very pleased with how it turned out.There is a peek at how the countertop turned out, but I am still working on the bathroom makeover.
I discovered an amazing water-based top coat after writing this original post.I use General Finishes High Performance Topcoat over painted finishes and stained finishes, and it is so durable that I used it on my kitchen cabinets.The finish has a slight sheen to it.
Looks great!How does the Minwax get through the wax?Would that work on wood that had been stripped?
I used very little wax on it.After waxing, the wood felt very dry, like it would absorb anything I put on it.It would have been too much if I had used enough wax to coat the wood.The grain wouldn't soak up the stain in a crazy way if the wood was too saturated with wax to absorb it.
Hope it makes sense.The wood should be stainable if it still feels dry after waxing.I think this would work well on stripped wood.
Two of my favorite finishes are danish tung oil and a marine grade finish.I have had great results with both of these.
Are you using those together?Is the Sikkens a clear coat?Is it a yellow/amber color like an oil-based poly, or is it clear like a lacquer?
These are not used together.The tung oil finish in the walnut color is very easy to apply with a rag.It's possible to choose the level of gloss with it.It is a beautiful rich, deep brown, dries really hard, and with a couple of coats, it provides a great barrier.This looks glossy at first but quickly cures to a soft sheen, and I use it on all my outdoor furniture and my front door.
Fascinating post today!You have a lot of knowledge about staining.I will revisit some of these in the future.
You are inspired!I don't have the patience to go through all of those steps, so I am very happy that you have done it.
I am sure I will get brave enough when I see your vision, but it is so far above anything I have ever considered.
I use a wood conditioner before staining and it makes a difference on how the stain looks on pine.Have you tried that?
Yes, I mentioned that.If I stain it a dark color, the wood conditioner works well.But when it comes to light a medium-toned stain colors, wood conditioner just doesn't seem to do much...or at least not nearly enough to suit my taste.When using light and medium toned stains, the pine grain is too busy and pronounced for me.
What if you used the condition?I don't think your favorite is pretty.I would like to see if you could make up for it with conditioner.
Did you know that Minwax Pre-conditioner is applied before staining?It takes care of making the stain soak in evenly if you stain within 30 minutes.Polyvine has a hand wax finish.I haven't tried it but I plan to use it.AquaZar is a top coat.It's a water based product.It dries to a beautiful finish.I was going to suggest select pine as I read your post and you use it, but I couldn't find it.
It's a good idea to use the dark wax to fill in the grain.You explained how you got through the wax for the stain.I don't think I will have that problem because I am doing my table in Cherry.The boys will put each piece through the planer to finish it off.I want to get the cherry back to the way it was before the stain.I will seal it with something.I will mix some color with the waterlox because I don't think using the wax would work for me.The effect I want should be given by that.My legs and apron are going to be painted.Can't wait to see the finished product and the walls done.It is only Feb. blessings.
I have had that table for 26 years.When the kids were young, they would scratch each other's names into the wood to try and get a sibling in trouble.
Thank you for sharing!I have pieces of plywood and pine that have been sitting in my craft office for a year, hoping to one day become signs for my home.I didn't want to ruin my wood because I hate how pine takes stain.I think your last board is exactly the tone and weathered-but-not- crazy-grain look I have been hoping for, because you shared all of your test swatch and final combination of products.I only have to buy a few products to get that look and 70% of them are failures.I am an avid reader of your post.Have you or any of your readers tried painting over stain?Did you like the results?
You tested your method on the pine.I was worried that the difference was in the type of grain you had and the method you were using.That looks great!You bought a piece that qualifies as crazy grain.I had good success with rub-on stains in the past, but they have changed the formula and it does really odd things now.It's great to find something that works well.
The oil is called tung oil.No protective coat needed, food safe and easy to repair a spot instead of doing the entire table.There is a difference between products that contain tung oil.I found the table at a thrift store and it still looks like the first day.She has 2 young boys and has every meal at that table.I had to mix the dark and light tung oil to get the color I wanted.I purchased from the milk company and they were very helpful with any questions along with the information they have on their site.It takes 4-5 days between coats and we did 4 coats.My only concern would be to make sure you like the results on a sample since I don't if you could sand off the finish since it penetrates the wood.P.S.I have used Annie Sloan and love it, however, it will leave a ring from a glass, easy to repair, but still it leaves rings.
I am not going to use Annie Sloan wax as a final coat because of your experience.My table will be protected by several layers of oil-based polyurethane.I have lived with a dining table that was protected with wax and it was terrible.It was not protective at all.
There is a person named Kristi.I am familiar with your budget restrictions.One question, why pine?The number of steps to camouflage the pine grain would be reduced if there was a more pleasing wood grain.Is it possible to remove one or two steps and get a more satisfying result?What is the cost differential between pine and oak?
The difference between pine and oak is hundreds of dollars, and then I am left with oak grain, which in my opinion is only slightly better than pine grain.That is new oak.I like antique, quarter-sawn oak, but it's hard to duplicate on new oak.The difference between pine and walnuts is over a thousand dollars.I was shocked at how much it would cost to make a table out of walnuts.It would cost me more to make a table out of walnuts than it would to buy a Williams-Sonoma table.
I assume you are referring to a hand-rubbed product.
When my father built us a baby cradle, he insisted that the way to finish it was to stain the wood, follow with a coat of poly, and buff it in with wax.I didn't argue with his father because he was a finish carpenter.
I was very impressed with the end-results and the finish looked better than I would have expected from a furniture factory.I wouldn't describe it as glossy.He used a product called "bowling alley wax" because it reminds him of what they put on bowling alley floors.
We don't have easy access to Annie Sloan products and the major brands have yet to come out with knockoffs, so I used the same wax and spray as before.I didn't have a buffer attachment so I hand-rubbed it.It was tacky and smelly for a while but it cured and hardened and really protects the paint finish without having to mess with polyurithane or worry about bubbling.My daughter is 4 years old and she bumps the cabinet with objects.I plan to use the same technique on another piece of furniture.
I am not sure if ether of these examples is the proper use of the wax product or if it is different from Annie Sloan waxes.Minwax says it is for non-hard finishes, but it seems to work.It is possible to try it as one last option to see how it goes.
The use of wax over poly is acceptable for more experienced woodworkers.I have watched at least two videos from pro woodworkers who used it that way.The finish was beautiful.These people are also the same people who can make regular ole polyurethane look like a million bucks with a hand rubbed finish.I don't think it's as easy as they make it look.
I wonder if the wax-over-poly finish would work on a dining table that is used daily.I've never seen a pro use a wax like Annie Sloan, but I have seen both Minwax and Briwax used for that.
I used it over the paint because of that.I am not good at spraying or brushing poly.If I tried just poly, I would end up with drips or bubbles.There is something about drying time with red tint that makes me want a harder finish over something I am painting red.
I was sold after I tried some of the wax over red paint on a piece of wood.I didn't open the can of poly that I bought.The hand-rubbed one was great for that painted piece and I wish I had gone out and gotten the buffer.I will get the buffer if I stain a piece.
I think it would hold up well on a daily use table.There wasn't much hand-rubbed.
I recently discovered that there are dealers in my area that specialize in old wood, and I found three in New England.I wonder if there is a place like that in your area.You wouldn't have to worry about aging it and the awkward colors if you got enough for the top and apron.It might be cheaper than buying the inspiration table.
A friend made a table for me.While doing initial renovation, he laminated some pine studs and turned them into legs.He used two old pine plank for the top of his home.The plank is wide.The legs are not stained.The colour is rich in gold.An odd size table, 8439, is part of the package when using old wood.
You should be aware that your new table isn't going to be the same colour as you make it.pine changes colour quickly when exposed to light.Regardless of what you do now, it will gain some yellow/gold/red tones.The warmth will enhance the staining you are doing.
You have a table made from wood that came from your house.I would like to know how to turn my legs.I didn't practice enough to be good at the lathe.
I remember reading that the FoodTV personality had a big old tree come down on his property and had the family's kitchen table made out of it for their new house.He probably had it professionally made.
I always thought it would be fun to do that.A big oak fell on our property.I wanted to rip it into boards and then use a planer to put it together into a table or bench, but I didn't have a way to do that.
The only practical way to do that would be to use a chainsaw.You can slice boards from a log right in the field with the metal guide/fence attachment.You would probably need a planer to smooth it out.
Interesting experiment.After the solution ages to 24 hours, I will be interested in what it looks like.
They were all cut from the same piece of lumber.The sample that I like the most has the same type of grain as the one on the left side, but it doesn't have as much of a stain.
One way to deal with stain and get the right color is to use wood.The post on how to make your own wood toners is great.You can use either oil or water.
You would need a lot of layers of a protective coat on butcherblock countertops.I had trouble staining the countertops.I oiled them with mineral oil after I sanded them down, and kept them oiled on a regular basis.It was my favorite finish for my butcher block because it made it easy to remove scratches, stains, and other damage.It's almost impossible to fix a stained finish without it being noticeable.
Hi, I'm Kristi.I hate pine.I know that your table will be nice, and I will like it, because every project you have done has turned out really well.I still don't like pine.It is full of ugly knotholes and it is soft.What happened to the table that your sister gave you?
Pre-stain conditioner is something you brush onto the wood before staining.It helps the stain to go on more evenly.I use this one.
The table from my sister did not work out.I want a stained table, but when I stripped the top of the table I found that it was covered in wood veneer and not stain, so it wouldn't take stain.It turned a completely different color because the stain soaks up stain much faster than wood.
My daughter received a cart for Christmas.I used pine from Home Depot and wasn't trying to hide the grain.After only five minutes, I wiped the board off with Minwax Golden Oak.I did not want the orange tone that I got and the 24 stained differently than the 1x's.I did three coats in order to get the same color on each board.I wiped everything using a dry brush technique.Everything orange became a rich brown and I loved it.Immediately wipe off.Grain became beautiful even though it didn't disappear.Rich looking, not dark.Maybe it will save you some steps.If you want to see the photo, I can send it to you in an email.
I uploaded your pictures so that others could see them.If you would like me to remove them, just let me know.
Your cart is great!I always look at the industrial-style furniture for over $1,000 on the Dot & Bo website.What kind of stores sell things like that?
The wheels were found at the farm.The owner sells things on eBay.Look under the wheels.I don't think anyone makes reproductions of them.
I have had good luck with Gel stain, which is much more workable and buildable than Milwaukee, and it goes really far too.
How about painting a thin layer of paint to control the grain and color?Then put stain on it.This has worked well for me.
I am not sure if anyone has suggested this, but I did not read all of the comments.I have had great success with the General Finishes Gel Stain.The gel stain sits on top of the wood so it hides the ugly wood grain.It can either be an aged look or a full coverage look.The wood grain is not as visible as it used to be.I am refinishing my oak kitchen cabinets and working on the oak vanities in my bathroom.I think it would work on pine.
Is it possible to try different stain recipes on the same piece of wood?The grain in each sample is different and using the same piece would give a more realistic idea of each recipe's effects.Will pine hold up for a dining table?
Pine is used for dining tables and floors.The character and charm of it is due to the ding and scratches that occur.The table is made of pine.
I wanted the wood to have an aged look, so I used the vinegar/steel wool method to make the stain.I found the directions using apple cider vinegar.It was a beautiful stain.I wanted to do it again, but it was not the same as before.I reuse furniture for a living.I like to sand off the old finish and stain it with a mixture of Miss Mustard Seed's Curio and a typewriter.The last time I did this, I brushed on a coat of water first and wiped it off so the paint absorbed more evenly.I paint on a mixture and wipe it off.It can take more than one application to get the richness I want.Next, wipe on a couple coats of oil.The ugliest wood is turned into a beautiful piece.The small trial packs are sold by most retailers.I will send you what you need to try it if you can't find it in your area.
If you want an even stain on pine, you need to do a washcoat first.2 parts denatured alcohol and 3 parts pre-made shellac.This will help reduce pitch bleed.
The first article that came up was about shellac as a sealer.
You will find a lot about using washcoats in magazines and websites.He talked about using a varnish-type finish after the stain in the article.It is a common practice when using an oil stain and a water-based varnish.I was talking about using one before the oil-based Minwax stain to keep the stain from blotting the face.A washcoat is much thinner than a Zinsser BIN primer if you have used it before painting pine.When mixed with denatured alcohol for a washcoat, the Zinsser SealCoat is perfect.Minwax makes a mineral spirits-based pre-stain wood conditioner for soft woods which would be easier to use than shellac but I would still recommend experimenting with SealCoat for the end grain.If you use the Minwax pre-conditioner, be sure to use at least 2 if not 3 coats of poly on top because all 3 prevent full penetration of the oil stain and I would hate to see good work worn away.I am sure it will turn out great.I think your work looks beautiful and magazine worthy even though your style choices and mine may be different.
You just coat it with shellac and let it dry.Do you sand before you stain?Does it matter?After you stain, let it dry, and then apply several coats of poly.Is that correct?Is there any other steps you would add?
A multi-step process is one of the things they have in the article.http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/staining-pine
That is a beautiful finish on pine.I am sure you noticed that they were using a water-based pre-conditioner and dye instead of an oil based one, and they still evened color further with glaze.The dye and glaze were likely to bleed together after the wash.If you use the select pine for your table, one coat of the dewaxed shellac is probably good.There is an article that talks about washcoat thickness.If you want to remove any flaws from the brush, you should let the washcoat dry and give it a very light sand with 400 sandpaper.After the stain is completely dry, you can either use a compatible poly over the top or SealCoat to seal it.If you are using Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane, you should double check with your manufacturer that it is okay.I wouldn't use a polyacrylic unless someone tape-tested it and found it works.
http://www.refinishwizard.com/washcoatsolids.htm
I have learned a lot about finishing wood in the last 30 minutes.Thank you everyone!After the 10th comment about wood conditioner, it clicked for me.If you want to tint your hair because it has different porosities, like the ends are porous from curling irons and flat irons, the middle of the hair shaft has medium porosity from day-to-day damage and the new hair is resistant, you must apply a filler before the tintIt fills up the hair where it is porous so that when you apply the tint it doesn't stain as much as after a wood conditioner.I enjoy making connections like that.It makes a difference if I use wood conditioner before staining.Can't wait to see the table!!
This is timely.I will be moving in the middle of March after purchasing a home.I want a table just like you said, but I am seeing prices from $2100 to $3500 depending on where I'm shopping.That does not include the chairs.I was shocked.I feel like I will be able to handle it even though I am not as experienced as you are with woodworking.I don't know what the expenses will be for the build with power tools.I don't have many tools at the moment.I will be keeping an eye on it.
I asked if selecting a different wood choice would make it easier to accomplish the desired result.Or make it more difficult to work with it?
Thank you for doing that!We have built.Only dad has this Ana White console.I don't want to ruin them with a bad stain job, but neither of us do.Suggestions for a different wax?I don't want to drop another $20 right now.I love how your samples turned out.
I don't know of another brand, but you might get a similar benefit from a product like shellac that you can buy from Home Depot, I think one thing that the wax does is just kind of seal the wood so that it keep so much of the stain from penetrating into and accentIt might be possible to do the same thing.There are some great tips for staining pine on this link: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/aw-extra-101013-staining-pine.
I came to this site because I wanted to know what sample #1 was.Absolutely love it.I might be able to see some lines from the saw blade.The highlights of the wood veins are beautiful, but hard to tell from a picture.
A.No other protective finish can be applied to your project after Annie Sloan Soft Wax is applied.Adding another coating to a wax finish is futile.
I would like to thank you for this post.I have a question about the wax.What do you think would look like without the wax?Thanks!
Looks great!Is it durable enough to be used for a flooring on pine floorboards?Is there another finish that would give the same effect if the polyurethane doesn't work?Many thanks.
Would this system work for pine plank floors?I want that look but not the flooring.The old houses in our area used pine planks.What are you suggesting?
I would be scared to try it on the floor.I would bleach the wood first and then stain it, using a bleach product that is specifically made for floors and other large areas.I want to build a wood countertop for my pantry and pine is the cheapest wood so I will be using this process.There is an issue with the yucky grain.If you bleach wood before staining, it will remove the yellow/orange color and make the stain look better.If you don't mind, I'm going to try it and see how it goes.I will probably be working on that project in December or January.I have to build the cabinets before I can make the countertop, so I might not do it until January.You can find articles and videos about it on the internet.It looks promising.
It was perfect!Thank you so much!I will keep an eye on it!We don't plan to start building our home until next summer, so there is more time before the floors go down.We have had friends rip plywood and use it.Oh my gosh!I want the house to be warm and cozy.You have done a great job with the color of the table.It was slightly weathered and matt.
Thank you so much for your quick reply!Can't wait to see the results.I want to do wood countertops against white cabinets in our build.It's too early to say.
I read your post and wondered how your cabinets came out.I have also built my own and am very happy with the results.I made butcher block counters out of long scrap maple from a reuse center, so don't forget that there are other options than Big Box and lumber yards.I bought oxcylic acid online.Pros use it to lighten colors and remove water stains from wood.You have got me thinking, I haven't used it on my pine floors yet.I bought it because it takes out water marks from old doors.Toothbrush, dipped in water, oxcylic acid powder, a little scrubbie-scrubbie, and stains are gone!Do you want to neutralize with a wipe of watered vinegar?Done!It doesn't need to be complicated, right??
I am looking for a way to stain my kitchen floors.I like the grain, but I hate the yellow color.I have many different looks in the same species because it is made of pallet, packing crates, and boards from a reuse center.Some are yellow and some are red.I am thinking of gray stain first, but I really like the idea of a wax to fill in the cracks for an aged look.Briwax doesn't cost an arm or a leg like ASCP so it's probably on my part.Whatever works, right?I can modify it for the huge of the wood by using different wax tones.
You don't show a finished product, but I would be interested to see it.I am going to finish my floors with a couple coats of paint BASE for a water proof finish.I get what you mean about a rustic table.
Can you show the staining process in a video?We don't want to ruin our table by staining it.We like the honey brown you came up with.Did you clean the stain?
Wow!This is amazing.It's so scientific!Grain reversal can be avoided with the help of the vinegar.Is this true?
Is there a picture of the table?I would like to see how the process worked on the whole piece.We had a table and two benches built, and I am trying to decide how to finish it.
I can't tell you how many do-it-yourselfs I've come across that are gorgeous.I have searched high and low and none of the finishes come close to what I am looking for.I can't wait to try it!
I was shopping for wax online and love the fishes of #6, but I'm a bit nervous because the site below says that we purchased a pine barn door.Did you have any issues after doing your table?It's important to understand that once you wax a piece of furniture, you can't apply a lot of things.Over wax.It will peel off eventually.It will be a problem if you don't have it right away.I guarantee that.:
Good morning!I love your post.My husband is finishing a wall.I don't like the yellow tone.Did you ever stain this wood?I don't want to lose too much of the gray, so I'm leaning toward you selection of stains.I would like to thank you for your advice.
I have never heard of that wood.If you have a scrap piece, you might want to bleach it.If you follow the link at the bottom of the post, you will see a recent project where I bleached pine before staining it, and it turned out beautiful.It wasn't a bit of yellow or orange.From now on, I will use that process when dealing with pine.I am not sure about removing the gray.It will need some testing.If you purchase the wood bleach kit, you can use it to test it out on a scrap piece of wood from the wall.
How do you remove the stain from the pine?Do you use the steel wool pads to take it on/off?Maybe paper towels?Thanks for the help!
I tried this and my pine ended up very dark.I soaked the solution for more than 3 hours.If I apply your other steps with the stain, will it get to the warm brown?Suzanne Ty.
The pine table looks dark after I applied my solution for more than 3 hours.Do you know if there is a way to get rid of this?I think following the next steps won't help.Thanks.Suzanne.
I have had a hard time with pine, but I like your articles.The color double espresso has a paint gel stain and top coat.It looks great on pine.You should try it.I used it on farmhouse style picture frames I built out of cheap pine at Home Depot and they turned out gorgeous.It is very similar to your last board with only one coat.It is a beautiful medium brown and it is not streaky like water based gel stains.It will become your favorite pine stain.You can apply it by hand.I have used a wadded up paper towel with great results.I am not a seller or a spokesman for fusion, just a happy little person who discovered a revolutionary product.