Baseboards add a finishing touch to a room by covering the joints between the walls and the floor.A homeowner can learn to cut and install baseboards in their own home.To remove old baseboards and learn how to make new ones, read the following instructions.
Step 1: You can cut through caulking or paint with a utility knife.
You are likely to chip the surrounding paint if you don't do this.
Step 2: You can loosen the trim from the wall with a pry bar.
This will help avoid damaging the wall and floor.To help the process along, use a screwdriver or a group of shims.
Step 3: The trim needs to be removed.
If necessary, remove the nails from the wall.Remove any glue or caulking that may block the installation of the new baseboards.
Step 4: Measure the perimeter of the room.
Take the dimensions of the straight wall and round them up.For beginners, cut slightly more than is necessary for a tight fit.It is possible to cut off but not add back on.Measure each wall at least twice.Adding more room to your measurements will allow for outside corners.You will want the width of your baseboard in the extra room to be a bit more.
Step 5: Purchase your materials.
For the inevitable mistake or two in measuring and cutting, buy more trim than your measurements call for.Some people use a 10% excess estimate, but usually just buying an extra stock length or two.Bring the baseboards inside one week before installation to allow them to get used to their new surroundings.Depending on the type of project, there are typically three components to most baseboard installations.They moved from top to bottom.The baseboards have moldings that fit on top of them.If you have wainscot panelling, they are only needed.The is.They are mostly flat and form the bulk of the baseboard.The is.There is an ornamental detail at the bottom between the floor and the baseboard.When you are retrofitting or putting down new flooring, shoe mold is used.
Step 6: Level the floor.
If the floor peeks out of your baseboard at certain points, you want to make sure your floors are level.Determine whether the floor is level by using a 4-foot level.Use the level to find the lowest point in the room if the floor is not level.At the lowest point, place a scrap piece of baseboard.If you want to stay level with the line, make horizontal marks every couple of inches in either direction starting at the top of the baseboard.Once a few horizontal marks are established, snap a chalk line.The top of the baseboards will be shown here.
Step 7: Take care of the baseboards.
The top of the baseboards should be level with the chalk line.You will want to suck them up.After leveling the piece of baseboard, attach it to the inside corner with one or two nails.The bottom of the baseboard should be above the floor.Measure the distance between the chalk line on the bottom and the top corner of your tacked baseboard using a compass.Keeping your compass spread rigid, hold the pencil side of the compass on the floor.To trace an outline, move the pencil across the entire distance of the baseboard.You can cut along the scribed line with a table saw or a jigsaw.If you have a circular saw, make sure the cut is straight.It will be easier in the end.Plane down the edge of the baseboard with a block plane.Make sure the baseboards line up with the chalk line on the wall by putting them back onto the floor.
Step 8: Measure and cut your outside corners.
There are two pieces of trim around an outside corner.The ease of use and efficiency of a power saw make it the ideal tool for these.If your corner forms a 90o angle, cut each piece to form an outside corner.You can always shorten the cuts if you need to.
Step 9: Should you cope your inside corners or miter them?
The same process is used for inside and outside corners, except that the angles are reversed.The corners are not always perfectly square and the resulting joint can be sloppy.If you want to install baseboards which won't take paint or additional caulking, you should learn how to cut a coped joint.The process is very easy.Start with a 45 inside cut on the baseboard.The other end of the baseboard won't need to be cut; the coped joint will cover up the rest.The profile made by your initial 45 cut needs to be cut away.The goal is to leave the paint line intact but cut at a 45 back angle to clear away wood behind it.Slow down so that you can follow the profile accurately.To smooth out the coped seam, Sand away any excess rough patches or debris.
Step 10: If you have any other pieces, deal with them.
Most projects involve rooms with three or four walls and corners that are square.This is rarely the case in practice.Some important niche cases for you to consider are odd-corner pieces.If you encounter corners that don't form ninety-degree angles, use scrap material for trial-and-error fitting until you find the right angle cut.You can use that setting on your saw to cut your trim.The pieces are mid-wall.It is likely that you will have to use more than one piece of baseboard.Instead of simply butting flat ends up against one another, which may separate with time as the wood shrinks, cut both pieces at 45 degree angles to fit together like so.End pieces.If the baseboard does not need to continue around any corners.Simply cut it and move it against the object.
Step 11: The baseboards should be sanded andprimed.
You may want to sand and prime after you've scribed and cut your baseboard angles.It will save you a lot of time if you do your sanding before installation.Allow to dry, and then sand before installing if you have selected bare wood materials.
Step 12: Attach the baseboards with finishing nails.
Knock on the wall to differentiate the hollow areas from the studs, or use a stud finder to locate wall studs to nail into.Use a nail gun or sink two nails into every stud below the surface.Allow the nail holes to dry and then sand them.If you want to make a better bond on the outside corners, apply a thin bead of wood glue or glue to the edges.If you have properly coped your baseboards, you don't need glue on inside corners.
Step 13: There is a shoe mold that you need to install.
Attach the shoe to the floor with pin nails.If you have concrete floors, you need to put it in the baseboard.Wherever possible, put the cap into studs.
Step 14: In wet places, apply caulking.
There are over and corner edges and nail holes.It's a must to do this in the bathroom.You might consider caulking the baseboards below the kitchen sink if you fear spilling or dripping.
Step 15: The trim should be touched with Spackle.
You can cover all the nail holes with a bit of Spackle.The Spackle should dry quickly.
Step 16: Attach the wall and floor above and below the trim.
You can paint the trim without going over the edges.Blue painter's tape is a good example of something that pulls off easily.You can paint freehand.
Step 17: Put your finish coat on.
A semi-gloss paint or varnish is used to finish the trim.You should have a good kneeling pad on hand for this kind of work.If your baseboards are already painted, you don't need to worry about this step.Always apply two coats of it, no matter what you are using.