If you have a bunk bed set that doesn't have stairs or a ladder, you need a way to get to the top bunk.Vertical ladders are easy to make, but not as safe for kids, and more substantial staircases may be beyond your do-it-yourself skills.A simple ladder-staircase hybrid that you can assemble quickly is your best option.
Step 1: Use 2 x 4 lumber for the side rails.
A pair of 8 feet (2.4 m) long pieces of good-quality 2 x 4dimensional lumber will work well for this job.The lumber yard has pieces that are warped, bowed, or cracked.If you hold one end up to your eyes and look at the length of the wood, it will be straight and true.
Step 2: The stair treads have lumber for them.
Depending on the width of your ladder-stairs and the number of treads required, you'll need a certain amount.In most cases, 3-4 pieces of 1 x 3 lumber that are 8 feet long should suffice.If you prefer beefier treads, you can use 2 x 4 lumber.If you're unsure, buy an extra piece or two of lumber.It is better to have leftover wood at the end of the job than it is to run out in the middle.
Step 3: The wood can be cut with a hand saw or power saw.
If you follow all safety precautions and know how to use the saw properly, you can make quick work of 2 x 4 and 1 x 3 lumber.Make safety your priority, and a jigsaw will work for this application.A hand saw is fine if you have a steady hand and a sharp blade.When handling saws, always wear eye protection.When using power saws, wear ear protection.Keep your hands clear of the blade, and remove or tie back any loose clothing, jewelry, or hair.You may be able to have your lumber cut to fit at the home improvement store if you are wary of your cutting skills.
Step 4: A 15 degree floor angle is needed for a more upright ladder-staircase.
The angle on the wide side should be marked on each piece of lumber.Carefully cut with your saw.
Step 5: For a stair-like structure, use a 30 degree angle.
The same process can be used for marking and cutting the 2 x 4 pieces.A 30 degree stair-ladder will protrude further into the room.
Step 6: All saw cuts should be smooth with sandpaper.
All cuts you make during this project should be made with a medium-grit sandpaper.Smoothing out jagged edges will improve the fit and appearance of the ladder-staircase.Dust can be wiped away with a rag or cloth.It is a good idea to wear a dust mask while sanding.
Step 7: Measure the width of your treads.
If you work with a basic wooden bunk set, the ladder-stairs will usually attach to the inner sides of 2 vertical posts that either form a corner of the bed or support the upper bunk's protective rail.Take the distance between the posts and subtract 3 inches to account for the side rails.An ideal width is between 16 and 18 inches.You subtract 3 inches because 2 x 4 lumber is only 1.5 inches thick.
Step 8: To shorten the stair treads, cut them from the 1 x 3 lumber.
The width of your treads can be determined using the adjusted measurement between the bed's support posts.You can mark and cut the treads with your saw.A typical bunk bed has 7 treads, 1 on the floor and 6 up the side rails.If your bunk set is tall or short, you should cut a few more or less than 8 inches from the vertical rise between the treads.
Step 9: Attach the side rail to the bunk set.
One at a time, angle a side rail toward the upper bunk so that its bottom cut is flat on the floor.The bed has two vertical support posts.It will be easier with a second pair of hands, but you can manage it on your own.
Step 10: The side rails should be flush with the bed.
If you want to cut it flush with the post, trace the edge of the vertical support post onto the side rail.The other side rail should be against the other support post.
Step 11: Carefully cut the side rails with a saw.
Place the side rails side by side to make sure they are equal in length after cutting.If they need fine-tuning, position and mark them again.
Step 12: There are pilot holes in the side rails.
Place one of the cut side rails back into position, with its bottom cut flat on the floor and its top cut flush with the correct vertical support post.Pre-drill 3 holes into the side rail where it meets the support post using a drill with a bit that is slightly thinner than the wood screws that will attach the rails to the bed.Place the other side rail against the support post.If you want to hide the screw heads later, use a counter-sink drill bit.
Step 13: Attach the rails with screws.
Make sure the rails are in their proper positions.Drive wood screws through the pre-drilled holes and into the support posts.Drive the screws in until the heads are at least flush with the wood surface, if you didn't use a counter-sink bit to pre-drill the holes.You can cover the heads with wood filler if you drive them until they depress slightly below the wood surface.
Step 14: The bottom tread should be at the base of the side rails.
Between the side rails, lay one of the treads you cut on the floor.To center your pilot holes, mark its height on the side rails.After making the markings, move the tread out of the way.The rail rests on the ground in order to support the structure.
Step 15: Attach the bottom rail with pilot holes.
You can create 2 pilot holes through the rails with a drill bit that is slightly thinner than the 2.5 in screws.Put the tread back into position on the floor and drive the 4 screws through the pilot holes.If you want to conceal the screw heads later, use a counter-sink drill bit.
Step 16: The side rails have treads on them.
Measure the distance between the top of the bottom tread and the upper bunk bed deck.To mark the location of each tread along the rails, divide the measurement by 6 and use this result.If the measured distance is 66 inches, the centered markings for each tread will be 28 cm apart.You may need more than 6 treads if you have a taller bed.
Step 17: The leveled position is the one on the side rails.
Working from the top-down or bottom-up, hold a cut tread between a set of spacing positions you just marked.To make sure the tread is level, use a spirit level.Place it against the inside of the rails.
Step 18: Put the remaining treads in place by drilling pilot holes.
Use your markings to drill pilot holes through the side rails.Attach the tread to the rails with wood screws when you confirm the positioning.Make this easier by recruiting a friend.While you can debate whether this is a ladder or a staircase, it may be easier for kids to navigate than a vertical bed ladder.
Step 19: It is possible to cover the depressed screw heads with wood filler.
Round tubs are where thick pastes of wood are usually found.Use a small knife to apply the filler into the depressions created by your screw heads, as well as any knots or flaws in the wood.Sanding will be easier when the excess filler is removed.Follow the instructions for application and drying.If you want to remove the ladder-stairs later, you can expose the screw heads.
Step 20: The ladder-stairs structure should be lightly sanded.
An equivalent sanding block can be used with a piece of fine-grit.Light and even pressure can be applied to the wood surface.The wood needs to be sanded until it feels smooth.Wait until wood is completely dry before sanding it.It's possible that you need to sand a bit more aggressively.If you are sanding, wear a dust mask and eye protection.
Step 21: Dust can be wiped away with a rag or cloth.
If you plan to stain or paint the wood, you should get rid of the sanding dust.Simply wipe down the surface until you can run your fingers on it.
Step 22: To match the bunk set, paint or stain the ladder-stairs.
If you want to paint the wood, apply a primer first and then 1-2 coats of paint.If you want to check the color of the wood, apply a small amount in an inconspicuous area.Use a brush or rag to apply the stain, and wipe away the excess with a cloth.It is still advisable to apply a clear wood sealant if you want the structure to retain a natural look.