The Dutch rabbit is familiar to most people, even if they don't know the breed's name.They have a white background, with a helmet of color on the ears and face, and the same color as the rear end.The Dutch rabbit has been a pet for many decades.It is a popular children's rabbit because they are less prone to aggression than other rabbits.Their character is a good mid-path between being friendly but not needy and resistant to family life.
Step 1: Do you want a rabbit in your family?
The lifespan for a Dutch rabbit is between 5 and 8 years, although neutering the females could extend their life.If you can commit to providing a healthy and happy home for the rabbit, then you should.
Step 2: If you want a house rabbit, choose a Dutch rabbit.
The Dutch rabbit is a good choice if you want to train a rabbit as a house rabbit.They respond well to being trained and pick up litter box training very quickly.It should be noted that rabbits are all prey animals and that their even temperament makes them reliable with children.They dislike being picked up and are easily startled.Both fear and rough handling can cause rabbit bones to break.Children under the age of 10 should be supervised with a rabbit at all times.
Step 3: Provide a calm and healthy environment for the rabbit.
If you can provide a calm, predator free environment for the rabbit, you should consider getting it.If you already own a dog or cat, you should think twice as the rabbit may be expected to live in a constant state of fear.Prepare to spend time every day cleaning the rabbit's living space and interacting with him, so that he won't become bored or lonely.If you can't commit to this, get a toy instead of a rabbit.
Step 4: Prepare for the cost of a rabbit.
If your Dutch rabbit becomes ill, you should make financial provision for veterinary care.Not all veterinarians are comfortable with the species.For the sake of your new furry friend it is best to ask around and find an "exotics" vet who has further qualifications in treating rabbits, or at least is interested in them and undertakes continuing professional development in the species.The cost of veterinary care for rabbits is the same as for a cat or dog, so don't expect it to be less because of the lower initial purchase price.Prepare for veterinary expenses by taking out pet insurance, with some insurance companies now offering rabbit policies.Before buying a rabbit, you should make a list of potential costs.Prospective rabbit keepers must be prepared to provide for their pet's needs in terms of housing, good diet, health care, mental stimulation and exercise.
Step 5: Decide if the rabbit should be inside or outside.
You have to decide where to house your rabbit.rabbits are less likely to be forgotten than rabbits that are out of sight in a yard.If you house your Dutch rabbit outdoors, you need to make sure they have shelter from the rain, sun, and wind and that the enclosure is predator proof.
Step 6: You should buy a cage.
There are a lot of indoor cages and hutches to choose from.They can range from a puppy crate to a whole room that is rabbit-proofed.The important thing is that the rabbit has plenty of space to move around, with specific areas for a litter tray, food and water, and a hide.If you have more than one rabbit, each one should have a separate hide so they can withdraw if they feel overwhelmed.The minimum length of an indoor run should be 5 feet, but they are usually half that length.They should be high enough to allow the rabbit to stand on its hind legs.Even with a run of this size, the rabbit should get plenty of exercise and time to explore so it doesn't get bored.
Step 7: The cage should have a litter box, bedding, and eating area.
You should have a litter tray in the house.Dutch rabbits will quickly learn to use a toilet area because they are clean animals.The paper-pulp type litter is less harmful to the rabbit if eaten than clay-based cat litters.If the rabbit feels stressed, it should have its own shelter.Providing hiding places for rabbits reduces stress because the rabbit's natural instinct is to hide.
Step 8: The cage has flooring in it.
The rabbit's feet are damaged by wire floors.Either cover the cage with plywood or remove the wire floor.Pododermatitis is the equivalent of blisters on the back of a human ankle and is caused by Dutch rabbits.The most common cause of this is rough or mesh flooring or sitting in dirty bedding that is not changed often enough.Make sure the floor is covered with at least 2–3 inches of bedding.There are many substances that can be used for bedding, including straw (warm and soft), paper pulp (recycled material, safe and high absorbent), and shredded cardboard.
Step 9: The cage needs to be kept clean.
Spot clean the litter tray daily.If the tray starts to smell, you should clean it fully once a week or sooner.rabbits pass two different types of pellets, a small dry pellet and a larger sticky cecotrophy.The cecotrophy is a representation of food that has passed through the gut but still contains nutrition.If you remove cecotropes from the litter tray, you could deprive your rabbit of valuable nutrition.
Step 10: At all times, give your rabbit access to water.
It's important that it can drink whenever it pleases.It's a good idea to make sure the water is clean and that the bottle is also clean.
Step 11: All the time, give your rabbit access to grass or hay.
The wild rabbits eat vegetation, shoots, leaves, herbage, and grass.This diet is low in calories and high in fiber.The rabbit is constantly chewing in order to get the nutrition they need.Hay is the best option if this diet is not possible in the domestic setting.The main portion of the rabbit's diet should be green hay.They need to chew to keep their teeth in trim and to provide vital fiber for their digestion.
Step 12: The rabbit should be given fresh pellets every day.
It is acceptable to give a small amount of rabbit food each day, around the amount one rabbit can eat in 20 minutes.The rabbit can get a lot of food from the pellets.Rabbits that are fed a high proportion of their diet are prone to weight gain and this can cause them health problems such as sore hocks, skin infections, fly strike, and arthritis.Each biscuit is identical if you choose an Extruded diet.The rabbit will eat the tasty parts, which are low in fiber, calcium and calories, and leave the less tasty but nutrition rich parts.
Step 13: Fresh fruits and vegetables are offered every day.
The rabbit never gets the same food two days in a row.Fruit is high in sugar and should be fed in small amounts to avoid becoming overweight.Some fresh foods to avoid include tomato leaves, potato tops, bracken, laburnum, yew and oak leaves.
Step 14: Get your pet neutered.
Both male and female rabbits are bucks.males can breed at roughly the same age as does, and does can get pregnant from around 4 - 5 months of age.If both sexes are housed together, there is a high risk of pregnancies.Desexing helps to make males less territorial and thus better pets.The health benefit to neutering the females is that they are at a high risk of uterine adenocarcinoma, a cancer of the uterus.Desexing can be done from 4 months of age.
Step 15: Get regular veterinary exams.
After purchase, get your Dutch rabbit checked by a vet.A yearly check up is important.Myxomatosis and viral hemorrhagic disease are vaccine preventable in the UK.In your area, your doctor should tell you what vaccinations are important.
Step 16: There are signs of ill health.
There are signs that your Dutch rabbit might be sick.If you don't eat for 12 - 24 hours you should seek urgent veterinary attention.Seek urgent veterinary attention if you see any of the symptoms.
Step 17: The rabbit shouldn't be kept in its cage all the time.
Each day be sure to let your rabbit out of the house.If you don't want the rabbit to wander around the house, you can take it out of its cage and let it hop around in a pen.The house should be "rabbit proof."Rabbits will gnaw through electrical cables if they are not put out of reach.
Step 18: Your rabbit should be groomed.
The rabbit needs to be brushed daily.It helps you bond with each other, it builds trust, and it gets the rabbit used to being touched.
Step 19: Provide toys to enrich their environment.
These can be made using cardboard tubes with a food treat in the center, held in place by plugs of hay.To get the treat, the rabbit has to remove the plugs of hay.It stimulates the rabbit's mind.
Step 20: Lift your rabbit with care.
Don't lift a rabbit by the ears.A 'rugby ball' hold is ideal, with the weight of the rabbit's body supported along your forearm with its rear end tucked into your elbow and the opposite hand steadying its head.Wrap a rabbit in a towel so that it won't scratch you, if you're not confident in picking it up.
Step 21: Maybe you should get a second rabbit.
If you can't give your Dutch rabbit a lot of attention, you may want to get two rabbits.If you keep a male and female, then they need to be neutered.If you get two rabbits from the same litter, they should grow up together and like each other.