cinder block wall is an affordable way to get the job done, whether you're building a retaining wall or just need some extra privacy.It takes a lot of skill to build the wall up and turn corners once you've got your base set up.This can be tiring, so you might want to ask a friend for help.
Step 1: Determine the width of your wall.
Determine how many cinder blocks you want to use for the wall width, then calculate the width using the blocks' measurements.If your cinder blocks are 8x8 in (20x20 cm) and you want to use 2 blocks to make up the wall's width, your total wall width would be 16 in (40 cm).
Step 2: Take a look at the footing area.
The cinder block wall's foundation is the footing.It should be at least twice as wide as your block.Measure the width of your wall and then calculate the footing area.To find the dimensions of the footing area, use a tape measure.If your wall is 3 feet wide, your footing area should be between 6 and 9 feet.Footing helps spread the weight of the wall across the soil.The bigger the wall, the wider the footing should be.Your footers should be free of water.Make sure your footing areas are set up to drain water away from the footing.To make sure you are in compliance, check with the local building codes.
Step 3: The area should be marked with 4 stakes.
Place a stake in the footing area.This will help you keep your footing dry.The length of the wall is up to you, just remember to mark 2 times the width of your wall so you can install the footing.
Step 4: To mark the perimeter of the footing area, tie string along each stake.
When pouring the footing, the string will help you stay within the marked lines.To stake around the area, tie a string from stake to stake.4 straight lines are created for each side of the wall.
Step 5: The space between the lines needs to be dug out.
The dirt needs to be removed with a shovel.The cinder blocks are long so dig out as much depth as you can.If your cinder blocks are more than 18 cm long, make sure the footing is below the frost line by digging out the area about 25 cm deep.If you are in the US, you can call the national Digline to inquire about any local utilities that may run through your area.Follow all guidelines and directions you receive when you call at least 2 days in advance.
Step 6: Rebar into your trench.
If you want to make an L shape with your steel bars, you'll have to use a rebar bender.The corner should be half the width of the trench on each side.Pressure should be applied until your 90 degree bend is completed.Rebar should be placed vertically in every other masonry core.If your wall is load-bearing, the horizontal tie rods should be set at least 6 inches into the footing.To help the grout settle, lightly tap the block.
Step 7: A wheelbarrow has concrete in it.
Most of the concrete mixes require adding water.Before doing any mixing, be sure to check the instructions.Stir until the concrete mixture is fully combined.Before you mix the concrete, you need goggles, gloves, pants, and a mask.
Step 8: Take the wet concrete mixture and pour it into your trench.
Put the wheelbarrow by its handles and let the wet concrete drain out of it.Continue to pour until you reach the opposite end.On the other side, repeat.Continue pouring until the trench is completely filled.If concrete sticks to the wheelbarrow, use a hoe or shovel.The concrete should be poured with care.A non-binding or crumbling mix can be created by kicking up dirt or debris.
Step 9: Use a float to smooth the concrete.
It probably won't be smooth after pouring wet concrete.If you have rough or spotty areas on the concrete, use a float to smooth it out.The concrete should be hardened overnight.The texture of the concrete can be provided by using a notch trowel.The first row of blocks will adhere better to the footer than they would on smooth concrete if it were not for the notch.
Step 10: The first layer of cinder blocks needs to be laid out.
When you reach the first turn in the wall, lay out the cinder blocks at one end.If your wall is straight, line up the first layer of cinder blocks from one end to the other.Put the plywood between the blocks.Straight walls and walls with turns will be covered with spacers.
Step 11: From the beginning to the end, trace the edges of the bricks.
To trace around the cinder blocks, use a pencil.To mark where the spacers are, trace around all 4 sides.Put the cinder blocks aside.
Step 12: There is a marked area of the first block.
The first block should be completely covered by the mortar.To add mortar to the area between your lines, use a trowel.The mortar should be about 1 inch thick.If you want to mix it yourself, you can either buy a bag of mortar mix or use premixed mortar.It is usually cheaper to mix it yourself.
Step 13: Put the first cinder block on top of the mortar.
The cinder block should be lined up right over the prepared area.When you push the cinder block into the mortar, make sure it's 8 inch above the footing.
Step 14: Use mortar to butter the "ears" of the second block.
Both ends of every cinder block have the "ears" running from top to bottom.Buttering the ears means using your trowel to apply mortar on top of the cinder block.The 1 already in place is connected to the flanges of this block.You don't need a lot of mortar to cover the ears.You can use mortar on the ears.It shouldn't be applied to the space between the ears.
Step 15: The base block should be pushed into the new block.
When their mortars meet, slide the block into the preceding block.Keep pushing until there's only a small amount of mortar between the blocks.
Step 16: The rest of the first layer of cinder blocks should be done the same way.
If you traced the lines for the block, spread 1 inch of mortar on the footing.Place the new block on top of the mortar by Lineing it directly over the area.If you push the block into the mortar, it will sit above the footing.Continue Buttering the ears of the next block.
Step 17: Every now and then, wipe any excess mortar off.
Use your trowel to remove the mortar from the wall.Make sure your mortar doesn't set before you can fix it.
Step 18: You can grab a half block.
Half blocks should be included in your brick set.This will help to make your wall stronger.You will end each row with a block.Corner blocks are half blocks.
Step 19: Put mortar on the footing and ear of the half block.
It should be on top of the base block.Spread mortar on the ears and footing of the cinder blocks as you build your base.
Step 20: It's a good idea to check your base blocks often.
You won't be able to build a crooked wall with this.You don't have a chance to fix any issues if you use a level every 10 minutes.Be sure to check both vertically and horizontally.You can check for hardness by pressing the mortar with your thumb.The mortar is close to being set if you can just barely hit it with your thumb.
Step 21: The same technique can be used to build the wall.
To build out the wall's second layer, repeat the buttering and laying blocks technique.Start the third layer with a cinder block.If you want your wall to reach the desired height, you should start the fourth layer with a half block.
Step 22: The joints can be struck with a rubber mallet or sledgehammer.
The bricks will be solidified with this.It is advisable to check the mortar to make sure it is not completely hardened.If you choose to use a sledgehammer, make sure it is less than 2 pounds.The rubber mallets have less chance of causing damage.Use gentle pressure to strike the horizontal joints.Strike the vertical joints with care.Hit both joints again after removing the excess mortar.
Step 23: Use cinder blocks to build up the corner.
You're ready to turn the corner when your wall is 3-4 blocks high.Remember to use alternating half blocks in either direction if you want your wall to remain sturdy.Make sure the corners are plumb and square by using a large level.The joint line should be staggered from block to block.