How to figure angle iron strength?
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How to determine angle iron strength?Welcome Guest, Log in or Register Author.I am using angle iron to make supports for my work.To use the correct type of steel, you need to be able to figure it out.Most lengths will be between 1ft and 3 ft if both legs are the same width and angle legs range from 1.5 to 2.0" wide.I am not concerned with compression or stretching.I don't want a load to get up and have a piece of angle fold and collapse, so I might not be framing my question.Log in to reply.
Welcome Guest, Log in or Register Author.I am using angle iron to make supports for my work.To use the correct type of steel, you need to be able to figure it out.Most lengths will be between 1ft and 3 ft if both legs are the same width and angle legs range from 1.5 to 2.0" wide.I am not concerned with compression or stretching.I don't want a load to get up and have a piece of angle fold and collapse, so I might not be framing my question.Log in to reply.
Most lengths will be between 1ft and 3 ft if both legs are the same width and angle legs range from 1.5 to 2.0" wide.I am not concerned with compression or stretching.I don't want a load to get up and have a piece of angle fold and collapse, so I might not be framing my question.
I am not concerned with compression or stretching.I don't want a load to get up and have a piece of angle fold and collapse, so I might not be framing my question.
I realize I may not be framing my question properly, but any information of links you could provide to give some non-engineer"s basic rules would be great.
I realize I may not be framing my question properly, but any information of links you could provide to give some non-engineer"s basic rules would be appreciated.
"@context": "www.worldcat.org"There is a discussion of how to figure angle iron strength.There were comments in the Tool Talk forum.", "dateModified": "2009-10-27"I am using angle iron to make supports for my work.To use the correct type of steel, you need to be able to figure it out.My choices range from angle legs of 1.5 to 2.0 wide and from 1/6 to 3/16 thick, assuming both legs are the same width (no 2 x 3 ) and most lengths will be between 1ft and 3 ft.I don't care about compression or stretching or anything like that.I don't want to have a piece of angle fold and collapse when I get a load up.Is a 3/16 thick piece of 1.5 x 1.5 angle stronger than a 2 x 2 piece?I realize I may not be framing my question right, but any information of links you could provide to give some non-engineer's basic rules would be appreciated.Thank you for your time.It's not a good idea to use an angle for lifting applications if you're thinking about it.It is prone to failure.Channels, I-beams, wide flanges and rectangular tubing are used for lifting type applications.If the span is large, they need support from twisting, but are less prone to it than an angle.The angle is only a part of a complete load bearing or support assembly.Overhead lifting applications would benefit from using tubing or I-beams.It's not a good idea to use an angle for lifting applications if you're thinking about it.It is prone to failure.Channels, I-beams, wide flanges and rectangular tubing are used for lifting type applications.If the span is large, they need support from twisting, but are less prone to it than an angle.The angle is only a part of a complete load bearing or support assembly.Overhead lifting applications would benefit from using tubing or I-beams.I set up a test to prove my design when I built my custom hitch.I wanted a rated capacity of 4,000 lbs on the pin, so I preformed tests with new 1-ton and 2-ton jacks.The spread of the frame rail center line on my test plate was 34.A center x8 x12 bolted plate is located in the center of the 34 span.I could easily change the plate thickness with less than 2000#.I could hold 4,000# of center pin weight using two channels and a center x8 x12 plate.My final design was two 5 x34 channels with a 1/28 x 12 center plate.Material thickness from a top force is more important than the depth of beam.One can increase material thickness and width from a side force.I set up a test to prove my design when I built my custom hitch.I wanted a rated capacity of 4,000 lbs on the pin, so I preformed tests with new 1-ton and 2-ton jacks.The spread of the frame rail center line on my test plate was 34.A center x8 x12 bolted plate is located in the center of the 34 span.I could easily change the plate thickness with less than 2000#.I could hold 4,000# of center pin weight using two channels and a center x8 x12 plate.My final design was two 5 x34 channels with a 1/28 x 12 center plate.Material thickness from a top force is more important than the depth of beam.One can increase material thickness and width from a side force.T_Bone would like to thank everyone for their feedback.I need your help.Don't hesitate to beef it out when in doubt.Thanks for the feedback.I need your help.Don't hesitate to beef it out when in doubt.The datememe Calculator for Square Tubing is here.Some of you will be helped when designing projects.I haven't figured out how to post links here, so you'll have to copy and paste this link.There is a datememe Calculator for Square Tubing.Some of you will be helped when designing projects.I haven't figured out how to post links here, so you'll have to copy and paste this link.Did you ever hear of the S W A G system?If you take the sectional modulus into account, it works well.Did you ever hear of the S W A G system?If you take the sectional modulus into account, it works well.Guess the person is in the state of Kansas for ideas.There are ideas in the state of Kansas.They won't help you.They don't want to have to worry about liability when you get engineering help.They worry that it may hurt or kill you.The problem with the suppliers is the same.overkill is cheap since you aren't building the Eiffel tower.It probably is if it looks rickety.If you upgrade to some 4 square tubing with tubing or channel iron gussets/braces, you can't go wrong.If the car rolls on ya, some supports are needed.You can find tubing that will slide in the other.Some people have posted pictures of their tractor stands in the archives.They won't help you.They don't want to have to worry about liability when you get engineering help.They worry that it may hurt or kill you.The problem with the suppliers is the same.overkill is cheap since you aren't building the Eiffel tower.It probably is if it looks rickety.If you upgrade to some 4 square tubing with tubing or channel iron gussets/braces, you can't go wrong.If the car rolls on ya, some supports are needed.You can find tubing that will slide in the other.Some people have posted pictures of their tractor stands in the archives.This may be useful for your project.This may be useful for your project.A steel supplier should have a chart or some information.I wouldn't use any of them for a tractor stand.It's better to build it over than under it.I would try to find steel strength on the internet.A steel supplier should have a chart or some information.I wouldn't use any of them for a tractor stand.It's better to build it over than under it.I would try to find steel strength on the internet.The Machinery Handbook can give you the correct numbers and formulas that you are looking for.Don't go on someone's guess and get hurt or killed.There are many types of steel.Merchant quality is the lowest type you usually find.Consider it a merchant if you don't know what it is.Good luck.The Machinery Handbook can give you the correct numbers and formulas that you are looking for.Don't go on someone's guess and get hurt or killed.There are many types of steel.Merchant quality is the lowest type you usually find.Consider it a merchant if you don't know what it is.Good luck.", "url": "://www.yesterdaystractors.comgraphics/smllogo.png"