Your water heating system takes cold water from the supply line and provides hot water throughout the house.You may need to replace the thermostat or check the heating elements if you start to notice that you don't have enough hot water.It's time to replace the pressure-relief valve if you notice a lot of leaking from the run-off tubes.It's a good idea to have hot water in your home again when you're done working on your water heater.
Step 1: The power will be turned off for your water heating system.
You can find the 2 circuits that control the water heater by checking the electrical breaker box.You don't want to get shocked when you're working.If you don't know which circuits control the water heater, try turning off the circuits and testing the ports with a multimeter.The read out should be zero V.
Step 2: Shut off the water supply in your house.
It's a good idea to have the water valve on a pipe next to the unit.The lever should be parallel to the pipe if you turn the valve.You can't work on the tank with water in it.
Step 3: It's a good idea to drain the water heater.
Attach the end of a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of your tank.If you have a bathtub, put the other end of the hose next to the drain.Use a screwdriver or channel lock pliers to open the drain valve on your water heating system.If there is a run-off, most water heaters should have a drain next to them.
Step 4: There is an access panel leading to the heating element.
The access panel is usually located near the bottom of the unit and covers the thermostat and heating element.To remove the access panel, use a screwdriver.The access panels on the top and bottom of the electric water heaters have their own heating elements.
Step 5: The wires are connected to the heating element.
The heating element is usually located on the lower part of the access panel and has 2 screws with red and black wires connecting to it.Pull the wires out of the screws with your screwdriver.Attach the screws to the wires with masking tape as you pull them.
Step 6: The water heater has a heating element.
Attach the channel lock pliers to the hexagonal nut.To loosen it, turn the heating element clockwise.Remove the heating element by hand until you can pull it out of the tank.If you haven't drained the water from your tank, you should not remove the heating element.Water can come out and burn you.
Step 7: To clean the heating element, use a wire brush.
The heating element may collect calcium deposits from the water and make the unit less efficient over time.Remove the coil with a stiff wire brush after setting the heating element on a flat surface.Try to clean as much of it as possible.If you want to clean one side of the coil, flip it over and scrub the other side.You can order a replacement from the water heater's manufacturer if you can't get the heating element clean.They cost around $35USD.
Step 8: Attach the heating element to the tank.
Feed the coil back into the tank and then screw it back on.To tighten the unit in place, use your channel lock pliers.Attach the wires around the screws with a screwdriver.The heating element should have a seal on it.If it doesn't wrap around the threading.
Step 9: To use your tank again, turn on the power and water supply.
Once the heating unit is back in place, you should flip the breakers to the on position.The lever on the water valve should point the same way as the pipes.You should have hot water once the tank is filled again.Check the wire connections to the heating element if the water isn't hot.If they're correct, you might have a problem with the thermostat.
Step 10: The power should be turned off for your water heating system.
Go to your home's electrical box and find the breakers that control your water heating system.If you're replacing the thermostat, turn them off so you don't shock yourself.
Step 11: The access panel is on the tank.
The access panel can be found on the side or at the bottom of the water heater.To remove the access panel's cover, use a screwdriver.You should see the thermostat on the top of the access panel.Some electric water heaters have access panels.Each access panel has a thermostat.
Step 12: The wires are connected to the thermostat.
The thermostat has two wires connecting it to a box.To loosen the screws on the thermostat, use a screwdriver.Wrap a piece of masking tape around each wire and label it with the screw it was attached to.Your water heater won't work if your wires are not connected to the correct screws.
Step 13: The thermostat should be removed from the brackets.
With your dominant hand, hold the top of the thermostat.The bottom of the thermostat has a retaining bracket that holds it in place.Place the end of a screwdriver behind the tab on the side of the brackets and gently pry it up to release the thermostat.You can remove the unit from the access panel by lifting the tab on the other side of the thermostat.Since you can't replace the thermostat component on its own, be careful not to break the brackets that hold it in place.
Step 14: In its place, place an identical thermostat.
If the thermostat is not the same as your old one, it will not work.The thermostat should be behind the retaining brackets.Put the thermostat in place.Order the same thermostat from the manufacturer.They cost around $20USD.
Step 15: Attach the wires to the screws.
Once the thermostat is in place, bend hook shapes into the ends of the wire.Wrap the wire hook around the screw head.Attach the wires to the screws with a firm connection.You can either leave the labels on the wires or remove them.
Step 16: The new thermostat needs to be adjusted to 120 F.
The temperature can be controlled with a screw or dial on the thermostat.If it's a screw, make sure the slit on the screw head points to 120 F.Turn your thermostat by hand if it has a dial.All you have to do is turn your power back on once you're done.If you turn the thermostat higher than 120 F, it could cause water temperatures to get hot.
Step 17: The water heater's bottom panel needs to be removed.
The access panel is located at the bottom of the tank.Use a screwdriver to remove the panel.If the pilot light is out, you should leave and call the utility company since you may have a gas leak.If you smell gas, don't light the pilot light.
Step 18: The dial should be turned on top to the thermostat.
The power on your water heater should be turned off by the topmost dial, as well as the labels on it.The burner inside your water heater is turned off if you twist the dial by hand.Don't try to light the pilot light while the water is still on.
Step 19: The heat can be reduced as low as possible.
The front of your thermostat has a dial on it.To reduce your heat, turn the dial clockwise.You stay safe when you ignite your pilot light with this help.
Step 20: Light the pilot with a safety lighter if you press the dial down.
Attach the thin tube that connects to your thermostat with a safety lighter inside the bottom access panel.Press down on the dial until you hear it click.To start your pilot light, ignite your lighter when you press the dial.After the pilot is lit, hold the dial down for 30 seconds.The ignitor button is next to the dial.You don't need to use a lighter if you have a pilot light button.
Step 21: The dial should be switched to the ON position.
The dial should be released so that it clicks back into place.Turn the dial toward the ON position once it pops up.You will have hot water throughout your home if this is turned on.
Step 22: The water heater's temperature should be adjusted to 120 F.
Turn the large dial in the front of the thermostat to make it point to 120 F.The burner will heat the water in your tank.Don't turn the thermostat higher than 120 F or the water coming out of your fixtures mayscald you.
Step 23: The gas and water should be turned off.
The left side of your thermostat has a gas hose that connects to the gas line.The lever should be turned so that it's parallel to the gas line.Turn the lever so the water valve is parallel to the pipe.It's not necessary to turn off the power while you work on a gas water heater.
Step 24: Take the water out of your water heating system.
The drain valve is on the bottom of the water heater.Feed one end of the garden hose into the drain valve and the other into a drain in the floor or bathtub.You can open the drain valve with pliers or a screwdriver.The water coming out of your hose could cause burns.
Step 25: The lines are attached to your thermostat.
You should have at least 3 or 4 pipes that connect to your thermostat.The lines from your thermostat can be loosened with a pair of channel lock pliers.The pipes should be pulled away from the thermostat.The thermostat has a hose on the left side.The pilot and burner are located inside the unit because of the pipes and lines on the thermostat.The lines can be removed while the water is still flowing.
Step 26: The old thermostat can be removed using a pipe wrench.
Between the jaws of a pipe wrench are the sides of your thermostat.To loosen the thermostat from the tank, turn the wrench clockwise.When the thermostat is free from the tank, keep rotating it by hand.Since there's still water inside, don't remove the thermostat.
Step 27: Teflon tape can be used to seal the threading on the thermostat.
Attach the thermostat to your tank by threading it on the back.Wrap Teflon tape around the threading.Wrap your tape in the same way it was screwed in.Replacement thermostats can be bought online or directly from the water heater manufacturer, and they usually cost around $85-$90USD.Teflon tape can be called thread-seal or plumbing's tape.
Step 28: The new thermostat should be removed.
Place the threading into the hole where the old thermostat used to be after the thermostat is sealed.To tighten it, turn the thermostat clockwise.Use a pipe wrench to secure it in place when you can't tighten it by hand anymore.If the dial is upside down, make sure the thermostat is right-side up.
Step 29: Attach the lines and pipes to the new thermostat.
To get the gas hose back onto the thermostat, use your channel lock pliers.Attach the pilot and burner lines to the ports on the thermostat with your pliers.You don't have to seal the connections from the lines to the thermostat.
Step 30: Start your thermostat by opening the valves.
You can open the gas and water valves to get the water to warm up again.If you want hot water in your home, turn your thermostat to 120 F.
Step 31: The water supply should be turned off.
There is a water supply pipe next to the water heater.The lever should be turned so the valve is in line with the pipes.This prevents the water from entering the tank while you work on it.
Step 32: You need to drain 10 US gal from your water heater.
Attach the garden hose to the drain valve.Next to the bath or floor drain is the other end of the hose.You can open the valve with a screwdriver or pliers.Once 10 US gal are drained from the tank, close the drain valve and connect the hose.There is a drain on the floor next to the water heaters.
Step 33: The run-off pipe needs to be removed from the pressure-relief valve.
There is a pressure-relief valve on top of your unit.Attach the valve to the pipe that leads down the side of the tank.There is a pair of pliers that connect the pipe to the valve.Remove it from the valve by rotating it clockwise.Attach the new valve to the run-off pipe by setting it aside.
Step 34: To remove the pressure-relief valve, use channel lock pliers.
The jaws of your pliers should be between the base of the pressure-relief valve.Spin the valve by hand if you want to loosen it.The valve needs to be removed from the tank.As you remove the valve, it may release steam.Wear gloves while handling the valve and keep your head away from it.
Step 35: Teflon tape can be used to seal the threads on a pressure-relief valve.
The valve should be sealed to prevent leaks through the threading.The threading on your new valve should be the same direction that it screws in.Cut the piece of tape when you're done wrapping it.It is possible to purchase pressure-relief valves online or directly from the water heater's manufacturer.Teflon tape can be called thread-seal or plumbing's tape.You can seal your valve with any of these.
Step 36: The new valve needs to be put into the water heater.
The threading of the valve should be in the hole where it used to be.If you can, screw the valve in by hand.You can tighten the valve by using your channel lock pliers.The lever on the valve should be horizontal when it's installed.
Step 37: Attach the run-off pipe to the valve.
The run-off pipe should be threaded into the side of the valve so that it hangs over the water heater's tank.To tighten your valve, turn the pipe clockwise.If you can't tighten the piper by hand, use your channel lock pliers.If the run-off pipe hasn't already been sealed, you need to seal it with Teflon tape.
Step 38: The water supply should be turned on.
The lever on the water supply should point the same way as the pipe.You can use hot water again if the water supply fills your tank.
Step 39: There is a hot water faucet in your house.
Set any sink or fixture in your home so the hot water runs.The pressure in your tank will be relived by the faucet, so the valve is installed correctly.
Step 40: Pull the lever to open the valve.
Pull the lever on top of your valve to alleviate more pressure from inside the tank after a faucet has been opened.Some water may be going down the run-off pipe once the lever is open.
Step 41: A steady stream of water flows through the run-off pipe.
Water will be forced out of the pressure-relief valve as the tank's pressure increases.The lever should be horizontal again when you notice the stream coming from your run-off pipe.Once the stream is steady, you can turn off your water faucet.