How to get rid of a tree in your yard.

I have a tree.Hundreds more have been produced by it.I have been cutting and pulling these things until I can't anymore.If my husband goes at it with a chainsaw, I will have 1000's of new ones that sprouted from the roots of the tree.

There is more information about the toxicity of Round-Up coming out all the time.I wouldn't give a dime to Monsanto until I'd eaten my sumac.Ditto with Ortho.

It is necessary to kill trees and shrubs with an herbicide formulated for them.One such product is the brush b gon.

When the plant is storing up reserves in the roots, some people have reported good results.Make a fresh cut to expose the cambium layer and apply the herbicide to that area.

Not really, the other 1000 that it has growing on it's roots!The big one is also a possibility.Got any ideas?marcia?

If the babies are suckering off the roots of the parent tree, you will most likely kill it.The roots systems are conjoined.

The area should be turned into a lawn.Or just mow it.It is easy and effective.Very few plants can do that.

You don't have to turn the area into a thicket.The babies will follow if the mother tree is allowed to live.You want to get rid of them.

The mother tree is near a rock garden.There is a rock garden where all the little ones are growing.If I let the garden go to a thicket, the tanks will be damaged along the way.I don't have a budget for new tanks.I let the place go last summer because I didn't know what the weeds or flowers were, but I now have 3 times.The little guys are determined to grow, even though I'm out there every week.I sprayed most of them with a spray bottle because I was sure they would die a long time ago.They are turning yellow, but I am afraid the roses will die as well. Thanks for all the help!It really is appreciated.

The people who are amazed that you would want to remove your tree have not experienced the curse of one.It is impossible to keep the tree from taking over because they are fast growing and have great fall color.I was able to remove one thousand in my yard.I cut the tree down to the ground and then dug around the stump to remove it.I cut the ends of the remaining roots and applied Ortho brush to the exposed root ends.The "pit" was left open a couple of times.I haven't seen any signs of trees from sucker roots in 5 years, but I have to fight the seeds from birds that are still thriving in the area.This was a huge project, but it was worth it.Good luck!!

There is a tree that I'm seriously considering using a weed killer on.I think I'm about to go the Brush-Be-gone route.It's worse than anything else I've had to deal with.

suckers can be controlled with a mower.They give up if they are cut back enough.

It's not always true that trees damage a tank.I have never lived in a place that didn't have trees growing on the septic tank.I know of some tanks that had no problems until a tree was removed.

I will admit that it is a risk.I think trees make it harder to get to the tank for maintenance.

If you want to preserve the parent tree, you have to do it the slow, manual way.Maybe the area around the tree can be paved over.It's probably not good for the tank.

Killing the Parent tree is what I want.I've been fighting those suckers for 15 years and they can grow through a crack in concrete too.I'm going to replant my lawn because the roots and new growth of the baby trees have ruined it.I will not let the little suckers grow through my lawn.

I've been dealing with them for 20 years, and the only way to get rid of them is to dig them up by hand.If you are thorough in your work, it can take more than a year.Some go straight down more than 2 feet deep.They grow fast and furious.Only small pieces remaining in the soil are needed to grow a new sumac.If you don't dig up every day you will be in more of a mess than when you started.They work double-time reproducing when they're being threatened.

New shoots are pulled out by cutting, burning, and roto-tilling.Plants will survive if all the rhizomes are removed.In the following year, whatever is missed needs to be dug up.I am experimenting with using copper sulfate on the deeper rhizomes to see if it kills them.I mixed 15 ml copper sulfate in 2 liters of water and put it on top of the offending rhizome, hoping that gravity pulls the cs solution downward around the rest of it.I flagged the hole and will know next year if it worked or not.Don't spread the copper sulphate around because it will kill any roots that contact it.It's toxic.Handle with care.It stays active in the soil, so it could pose a future problem with other plants that are growing where it is.I believe that Sumacs are one of the hardest plants to get rid of and not ruin the soil.Each year, it's all grunt work, by hand, until you or the Sumacs win.

It's been a summer of thread bumping and I'm sorry if generic roundup/glyphosate wasn't being applied correctly.The "Mother plant" wasn't being killed and was just sending out shoots along the root paths of the old ones.Is it possible to use copper sulfate as a weed killer?At least an improvement over the nincompoops who have recommended using non-dilute bleach, but still a violation of EPA rules.

Since there's more evidence connecting red meat, dairy, phamaceuticals, and artificial preservatives to cancer than the _hor, you might as well say that if someone is going to sayGlyphosate causes cancer.The scaremongers tend to get burned down around here, so they move on.They are not as annoying as they were a few years ago.

The patent on "Roundup"...glyphosate" has been off for 25 years or so.People who can read labels do it.Which are the most places?

Glyphosate and triclopyr are the two most commonly-used chemicals for "brush control", in other words, for cut/treat applications to cut stems of woody plants one is trying to get rid of.It's highly likely that you're spraying the sprouts as they appear, but with regular 2% solution, like what you would use to kill grass or weeds.It won't kill sumac, but a 30% to 41% solution-like rate probably says on the label.Ya have to read.

Is consumer grade herbicides labeled for stump control?I can't remember when I bought one.

The "roundup resistant" plant is a huge trope of a "gardenweb tropes" website.Ivy is resistant.Glechoma is resistant.Bamboo is resistant.Ailanthus is resistant.It is almost never right, it is just misapplication, missing surfactant, not enough, right time of the year, etc.

Smilax is the closest I have found to being resistant.You can get complete burn down if you apply when they are in active growth in the early summer.If you do the same to those shoots, you will kill them off completely.I don't want to leave open containers of diesel and triclopyr sitting around my property because there is a published way of killing smilax.

You just begin to deal with the practical matters of how to treat the entire canopy without a terrible overspray damaging your entire yard if you suspect bamboos are also hard to kill with glyphosate.If you could spray a huge patch of bamboo at a time of year when it was growing, it would die.The cost of 5 gallons of Rodeo is drowned out by the helicopter rental.

There are big patches of Phragmites up near here on the W shore of Green Bay, all the way up to Marinette.Aqua-Neat is probably a non-surfactantglyphosate.

There is a patch of field bindweed at a site I used to manage that has evaded my every attempt at killing it.That stuff comes from a big potato-like tuber, so it has plenty of energy to replace whatever you hit with the spray.I didn't go into imazapyr territory or anything like that.While I could keep it out of the beds, the main plant network ran all throughout the surrounding turf.I was not going to beat that.

There is a sound barrier wall next to our property.There are many trees on the other side of the wall.The roots are growing under our driveway and on the other side of the driveway.The roots will ruin the concrete.It takes me a long time to pull them up.It is not possible to cut the trees along the highway.How can I kill them?

If you live in "sound barrier land", the liability risks are too high for doing anything other than having a root barrier of some kind installed as close to the wall as is legally permissible.If you wanted to do it yourself, you could hire an excavation company to dig a trench and install a root barrier product you bought yourself in a major municipal suburb.

I think it's too risky for you to use them, because if their activity spread unpredictably, and it does happen that way sometimes, they can kill plants on the other side of the soil.It could be considered 'planted' on the other side of the wall for supposed 'bioremediation' and 'wildlife habitat'.Also, etc.They could spread to a neighbor's yard.

Another approach to the battle is to contact the media.To shame the highway authority into fixing the problem."Seven on your side" used to be a feature on the local news in the DC area that took complaints of Davids vs. Goliaths.

It's surprising to me that the walls must have poured concrete footers.Does anyone else have this experience?I wonder if the footers are cracked already.

spraying the individual sprouts with properly prepared glypho/roundup and letting them die before cutting is more sensible than just cutting them.The kill back of the root system will slow down the spread.It could be stopped by something like imazapyr.

Those that spread are a gardener's nightmare, as the rope-like roots of those that do are called ryhzomes.I have come up with a proven solution to get rid of them, which is by digging up and removing every single inch of rhyzomes by hand.In Eastern Canada and the USA, this has been proven.It only kills the plant above ground.Cutting encourages spreading.The pieces of rhyzomes are spread around where they will take root happily.Since you have to dig up the rhyzomes to kill them, you should just remove them.The average gardener in Canada is not allowed to use that herbicide.You have to dig up the rhyzomes to paint them with it, so you might as well just remove them and not bother with the application of the herbicide.Since the rhyzomes can go more than 2' deep, I doubt a root barrier would stop the spread.I'm dealing with this situation right now.It takes 3 years of careful digging to remove everything.This is not an easy project to do.When you are digging, people will be happy to give you free advice, but no one has any worth trying.The only viable option is kneel and dig.For three years in a row.All the best if you have arthritis.

There is a rhyzomes on the right side, just to the left of the Maple tree in the middle.The areas to be watched for regrowth or rhyzomes that go deeper than 2' are marked by orange flags.There are two adults on the left side of the house.The original parent plants were cut down.The rhyzomes are coming back from the neighbour's property if I don't put in a root barrier.He won't dig them up.He'll use the lawnmower technique the most.