How to get the seam line right every time is covered in theUltimate Guide to Seam Allowances.
The seam allowance is the distance between the stitching line and the edge of the fabric.When joining fabric pieces together, the most common seam allowances are 1/3 inch, 1/2 inch and 5/8 inch.
Seam allowance is emphasized in every sewing book.A beginner sewist might wonder about the fuss.Is the seam allowance important?Leave some fabric from the stitching line and forget about it.It is very important and you cannot do that.
There is a reason for the seam allowance.You want enough space between the cut edge and the stitching line to take into account fraying of cloth, and you need enough fabric on the edge when fabric pieces with seam allowances are joined together so that the front of the fabric look seamless after.
In flat felled seam, french seams and other attractive seam finishes, you need to have enough seam allowance to lie inside the fabric folds.You need a consistent seam allowance to make your seam line look good.
If you don't follow the seam allowance in the pattern, you may end up with seamlines that do not match.
Do you want all pattern pieces to match?It is a good idea to keep the seam allowance consistent when you are sewing on your own.
The seam allowance is dependent on the way you are stitching the seam.There are about 17 ways to sew seams.Some seams are better than others.If you choose the right one, you will be able to decide on the correct seam allowance.There is a french seam and a butt seam.
I leave a seam allowance of 1/2 inch for straight seams and 1/3 for curves in garments.The given seam allowance is usually 5/8 inch in commercial patterns.This is more than 1/2 inch on the tape measure.If you don't know how to read tape measure, check out the post.
Sometimes even a 1/6 inch seam allowance is used in quilt or patchwork pieces.Home decor accessories can be made with a wider seam allowance.
Sometimes the seam allowance is left more than on the pattern to account for weight and size changes.You may need to let out some of the large seam allowance if you are sewing tight clothes.It is necessary to leave extra if your seam allowance gives away.
When you want your sewing to look professional, the edges of the seam allowance need to be finished.The zig zag stitches on your sewing machines can be used to finish the edges.Checkout the other finishes here.
When making a quilt or joining pieces in making garments, the seam allowance and its accuracy are important.The pattern pieces line up if the seams match.
The seam allowance is usually marked on the throat plate under the needle on most sewing machines.The machine will sew the seam line with the 1/2 inch seam allowance if you keep the fabric edge on the necessary marking.It's a good way to keep your line straight.You will have to make sure the measurement is correct on your machine.
A quarter inch foot or patchwork foot is a great help in getting the seam allowance right.At all times, it has a special edge which makes sure that you use the 1/2 inch seam allowance.You can learn more about the presser foot here.
The edge stitching foot is great for keeping accurate seam allowance.
The screw-down or snap on seam guides make sure your seam line doesn't stray.Some people use rubberbands to circle their machine bed to make a marker.
Measure 1/2 inch to the left of your sewing machine needle.If you are always sewing with a particular seam allowance, use that.Keep it on that point by taking a thick tape and a stack of post it notes.You can align the edge of your fabric along this guide you have attached and sew with the exact seam allowance you want.
You can only allow a scant 1/2 inch for seam allowances in quilting.The 1/6 inch seam allowance is used because it is just inside of the 1/2 inch line and one or two threads outside the mark.
It is a simple trick to use when sewing a quarter inch seam.The zig-zag pressure foot should be on the edge of the fabric.I get a 1/2 inch seam allowance all the time.I have never tried this with any other pressure foot.Why don't you try it yourself?
You can sew zig zag and other decorative stitches straight on this plate without changing the plates if you use a zig-zag needle plate and pressure foot all the time.It isn't the best needle plate for a straight seam.There is a reason for the straight needle plate and straight sewing pressure foot.If you use even seam allowance, you will get a straight seam line more accurately.
If you have to make a zig zag seamline, do not use the straight stitch plate and pressure foot.
When you are done sewing, you can use your ruler or tape measure to measure the accuracy of your seams.Simple.I like simple seam guides.Stitch the correct one if the seam allowance is less.You may have to remove your seam ripper if it is more.
The seam allowance can be reduced after the seam is done.When you sew curves and sheer clothes.When sewing steep curves, the seam allowance may need to be cut out or deep cut before the stitching line can be made.
When sewing facings, it may be necessary to cut one seam allowance less wide than the other.This is done when the seam is close to the body.In grading, you trim one seam allowance first and then the other, even more so, than the first one.The one closest to the body is the shorter one.
There is less bulk if the standard seam allowance is trimmed into layers.It will give a better finish from the right side.It gives you flat and crisp seams.
The seams of thick fabrics should be graded so that they are pressed together and kept like that.When seams need to be kept in between other layers of fabrics, you can grade seam allowances.
The seam allowance can be trimmed a little closer to the stitching line.
Understitching is done when sewing so that the facing rolls smoothly to the back of the fabric.The facing close to the seam line is referred to as understitching.
This is the most important step in making your seam look good.Most home made clothes look homemade because sewists forget to press as they sew.
The seam allowance is usually pressed open.Don't iron over the seam allowance.Ironing with a hot iron in a back-and-forth motion will stretch the seam line.The correct way to take up the iron is to gently lower it.It is a good idea to press the seam allowance to one side of the line before sewing it open.The thread will set and the seam line will look better.
Always press the seam allowance open for every single seam line, rather than waiting for the end when all the pieces are joined and then press.The idea is to press as you sew.
The seam allowance should be pressed to the side of less sheer fabric when sewing two fabric pieces together.The seam allowance will show through the sheer fabric if it is not caught in this pressed position.
You have to stitch in the ditch when you press to the side.The seam line can be weakened when the seam allowances are pressed open.Press the seam allowances to the side.
The seam allowances are pressed open and then pressed to one side.
If you find yourself frustrated at making a straight seam line, you may need more practice in sewing and cutting fabric.
It is a good idea to practice stitching on straight lines if you are a beginner sewist.You know how you are from your line when you draw the stitching lines.Then practice more.With practice, you can see the seam allowance and get the straight line.
Thank you for the coverage of this and other sewing topics.The way you presented the information makes it easy to understand.I need permission to use information from your website in the PowerPoint units and Student Workbooks I am putting together for my year 7&8 Textile classes.Credit will be given to your work and website when these are distributed to our students.A positive response would be appreciated by my students.Thank you.
I am honoured that you think that the information here is good enough to teach students.When your students need to refer the website, please mention it.Thanks.
It was very helpful for an older beginner to read this article.
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