A picture frame, jewelry box, or piece of furniture can be inlaid with contrasting material.Before tackling a more intricate design, it is best to first inlay straight lines and then move to a circular or oval shape.The simple method requires no specialized tools, while the complex instructions will allow you to make beautiful, intricate designs once you have the woodworking equipment and experience.
Step 1: Choose your base and inlay.
Pick a wooden object to decorate, such as a piece of furniture, box, guitar neck or practice block.You can use any thin, flat material, such as wood veneer, mother of pearl, or a small cut of bone or ivory, for your inlay.A pleasing contrast can be created by having one dark and one light material.
Step 2: The inlay should be cut into a shape.
You may already have a piece that you want.I saw it into a simple shape if it wasn't.If you see mother of pearl or other material that produces dangerous, sharp dust, you should wear a dust mask.You should periodically dip the mother of pearl in water to prevent burn marks from being caused by a sharp, well maintained saw.Limit yourself to simple cutouts or geometric designs.If you want something more ornate, see the instructions for complex designs.
Step 3: The piece should be put on the base.
It takes a long time to set double-sided tape or tacky glue.You can trace and cut around the inlaid piece with this.You can trace your piece onto tracing paper or tape it onto the base.If the pieces are large enough to hold without cutting yourself, they can be held in place manually.
Step 4: The inlay is on the wooden base.
To trace the outline of your inlay, use a pencil.Don't make the design too large or too small.
Step 5: Cut into the traced lines with a sharp knife.
Cut into the traced lines using an x-acto knife or other hobby knife.To get going, lightly score the wood.You can cut further down with less risk of your knife slipping on the wood grain if the grooves are established.Only cut into the wood deep enough to fit the entire piece.You can sand the piece down if you end up shallow.Sand the entire wooden surface to make it flush if you end up too deep.
Step 6: Cut out the wood beneath the inlay.
You can make a recess where the inlaid object will fit now that the edge has been established.Don't cut too deep.Small simple designs can be used with hand tools.Larger or more intricate recesses can be created with a power tool such as a Dremel.If you used double sided tape, you may need to wiggle a knife or other blade beneath the inlaid object to pull it away from the base.
Step 7: The area needs to be smooth.
After the majority of the wood is removed, flatten out the base and edges with a small piece of sandpaper.
Step 8: Check to make sure the pieces fit.
A tight fit is ideal, so if you can't force it in you may be able to hammer it into it after applying glue.You can sand the edge of the inlay at an angle to create a wedge, which is narrower at the bottom than the top.It's easier to fit without revealing gaps.You can't get your piece out again if it fits so well.In this case, you can brush a thin layer of clear glue over the inlay and let the tight fit do the rest.
Step 9: The wood dust should be mixed with the glue.
Thoroughly mixing the sawdust you've created into the glue disguises any gaps to make them look like part of the original material.If you're inlaying another material, use wood glue or an epoxy.
Step 10: Attach with glue and liberally apply it.
Stick the pieces together by covering the recess and bottom of the inlay with glue.Push it down to the base of the recess with the handle of a tool.
Step 11: Make final adjustments.
The glue in the gap between the two materials should not be cleaned off.If the inlay is raised above the surface, sand it down until it's flush with the wooden base.To keep the inlay nice and polished, use 220 grit sandpaper.
Step 12: You can create a design.
To trace from a reference image to your own, place translucent tracing paper over your computer monitor or art book.Until you are a skilled inlayer, avoid tiny pieces and complex lines.Take into account which materials you'll use for each piece.Better contrast and aesthetic can be achieved with multiple inlay materials.
Step 13: You can make several copies of your design.
You'll end up with pieces of the correct size if you cut out the inlay from the tracing paper.You should leave at least one master design sheet that won't be cut.
Step 14: The wood has a design on it.
To mark the design onto the wood you want to inlay, place your master design sheet over carbon paper and trace it again.You may want to include a few reference marks around the design to help orient yourself while inlaying.If you don't have carbon paper, cut out one of your copies, tape it in place, and then trace it onto the wood.You'll need to cut out each piece and tape it to the larger design.
Step 15: Remove the paper segments from the separate copies.
Undersized pieces will be caused by cutting them all from one trace.Number them on its surface and on the master design sheet.If you want to start with the furthest background elements, move to the foreground.Cut your pieces larger on the edges to create an effect.You can cut the entire piece out, like a leaf that will be hidden behind another leaf.
Step 16: It is possible to create a fiberboard template.
You can tape your pattern onto a medium density fiberboard (MDF) and cut it out using a table saw, router, circular saw or jigsaw with the proper technique.Wear eye protection.A bad cut can be caused by debris on table saws.Score the fiberboard with a utility knife before using a circular saw or jigsaw.
Step 17: The first segment should be cut.
The fiberboard template or paper cutout can be put on the wood veneer or other inlay material.Take a pencil and trace the pattern onto it, or cut around it for materials that won't take pencil marks.The x-acto knife is a utility knife.If you want to avoid slipping along the wood grain, score lightly first.For materials that can't be cut with a knife, use a jeweler's saw or other precise saw.When creating this type of dust, use a fan and a mask.
Step 18: You can file the edges smooth.
It will fit well with the other pieces and the base material if the side of the piece is smooth.
Step 19: Attach the piece or template to the base.
Run over the piece with your finger to make sure the tape is completely dry.Attach the paper backing to the traced wood base.You can use a long-setting glue.While you cut an outline, hold it steady but not attach it permanently to the base.If your double sided tape isn't strong, look for the type called "turner's tape" at a craft store.If you can't see what you're doing, use a utility knife to cut off the excess tape.
Step 20: Remove the inlay by cutting lightly around it.
To score the outline of the piece, use your utility knife.To remove the piece from the tape or glue, use a thin, flat putty knife.Don't damage the base or break it.
Step 21: Make it more distinct by tracing the grooves.
To remove the surrounding lines, use pencil or chalk.Don't erase along the grooves.Don't erase the marks you need to place the next pieces.
Step 22: You need to set up your cutting tool.
The most stable way to cut out a recess is with a full strength router.If you can't get one, use a Dremel with a routers attachment or a lighter, less stable one.Just by one millimeter or 1/32 of an inch, you can set the depth of your tool.
Step 23: Cut away most of the recess with a drill bit.
Stay away from the outline if you want to remove the wooden base.That requires a bit more precise.
Step 24: Cut to the edge using a drill bit.
Carefully approach the outline of the recess after replacing the drill bit with a smaller one.As soon as you get to the point, stop.When you see dust and wood at the surface, stop immediately.You've gotten to the point where you're at.It is easier to see with a magnifying headset.
Step 25: Glue the piece together.
Liberally apply glue to the base of the recess and use a brush to make sure it covers the sides as well.Wood glue can be used for veneer.For a different inlay material, use a strong, specialized glue.To disguise its appearance, excess sawdust will be created by sanding the edge first.Once the piece is wedged in flush or almost flush with the surface, smooth the glue into the gaps with your finger.
Step 26: Put it in place and let it dry.
Attach the inlay to something that the glue won't stick to, such as a wooden block.It's best to leave it in place for 4 to 6 hours or so.
Step 27: The surface needs to be level.
If you want to make the inlay flush with the object's surface, you have to remove hardened excess glue.After flattening the surface with a coarser grit, polish the mother of pearl or abalone with 300 grit sandpaper.
Step 28: Place additional pieces after cutting them.
If you want to cut out that piece and inlay it, move on to the next segment.Once you've cut into it for the piece above it, you can make a flush, overlapping effect.Don't make pieces on the edges that will be under another segment.The edges should fit your design.