How to install a window trim Drip Edge over window easy - House style design
The most protection against water damage is provided by several layers within a proper roofing job.Installation of edge flashing is the first line of defense.The elimination of this installation can end up being a nightmare.If you are re-roofing your house, be sure to demand a drip edge.You can retrofit your roof if it's already finished.
Before the installation of other items, a strip of flashing is applied to the edge of the roofing.It is designed to protect the roof from water damage caused by rain, snow, or ice being blown or rolling back beneath the edge of the shingles.It protects the sheathing from wind driven rain when placed on the rakes side.
Without the installation of a drip edge, water can get into the edges of the roof and cause it to rot and/or mold.A leak can develop in the ceiling or along the walls.
The intention is not to provide protection for the board.The back of the fascia is protected from excessive water because the drip edge directs the water directly down and into the gutter.The life of the wood is extended by this.
A benefit that wasn't intended but has been a useful outcome from installing a drip edge is that it prevents rodents, squirrels, and birds from being able to access the attic space via the builder's gap.If you have ever had a family of Squirrels living in your attic, you will appreciate this extra bonus.
If your house is a lot, you may not have drip edge flashing installed.It's a common practice to leave out the drip edge and compensate by installing asphalt roof shingles that hang over the edge by an inch or two.This practice is becoming less and less popular.It is now understood that a roof needs protection.The requirement of drip edging on all asphalt roofs was changed in 2012 by the Internation Code Council.
Attach the drip edge along the roof's eaves first if you want to install it on a newly constructed roof.A minimum of 2” should be extended back onto the roof.The vertical leg should be placed away from the body of water.
It is a common mistake that contractors make.It's not uncommon for them to place the edge against the body.The surface tension water will roll back onto the fascia if this is done.The result is quickly falling apart.Roll out and install the felt if you have that gap.The proper layer is the one under the rakes and over the drip edge.
The video shows water run-off without a drip edge and with proper placement.
Place a straight cut through the roof leg to make the outside corner turn.You need to wrap at least two inches.The requirements for Florida residents call for a 4” overlap on the vertical leg and a flap on top of the roof leg.
To make the inside corner turn, you need to create an overlap at the interior of the corner.You will make cuts at the end of the two sections of edging and overlap them.A common mistake made by contractors is to place a straight cut down the roof leg and then bend the section into the corner.The exposed square of sheathing is in the center of the valley.The valleys are one of the most vulnerable spots for water damage.Water run-off is very heavy in these locations and it is best to make cuts that prevent exposure.
Attach the edge to the rakes to make sure to start at the bottom and work your way towards the peak.The water run-off will be allowed to move correctly if a step effect is achieved.
The bends and the cuts at the peak of the rake side are recommended.I have found my method to be just as effective as any of the others I've tried. To do the rakes, I align my drip edge piece up with the peak and make a cut through the vertical leg.I bend the roof leg over the peak.
I use the peak seam as a guide when placing a line down the other side of the vertical leg.I cut off the kick-out that crosses over that line.I slip the overlap beneath the first cut and apply a thin bead of 100% silicone along the seam for extra assurance.
The use of galvanized roofing nails is the best practice for most applications.The local code requires you to use the appropriate nails and/or glue.
There should be two rows of nails in a staggered pattern.The center has a maximum spacing of 12”10” on the center will give a better performance.The recommended spacing is 4” on center if you live in an area with high winds.The spacing varies from location to location.Be sure to check your code requirements.
The process of installing a not-so-tiny addition to a finished roof is the same.You want to be able to nail the edge without damaging the shingles.
The lower run has to be loosened or removed to allow access to tools.The easiest install will be provided by removal.
If removal of the roof shingles is not an option, you can still get some good protection by doing a cement attachment.This method does not meet the standards set by the International Code Council of using mechanical attachment, but is still better than having no edge at all.
You will need to loosen the lower run of shingles with a knife.You can slip the roof edge under the shingles.Press down on the loose shingles with a bead of roofing cement along the top edge of the drip edging.
To prevent damage to the roof shingles, it is better to do this when the temperatures are warm.The roof shingles will break easily in cold weather.
The warmer temperatures will allow the loosened shingles to reseal themselves quicker.If you have to wait out the cold weather for the seal to retake, you run the risk of wind damage. So, try to time all repair work that requires lifting or moving roof shingles to coincide with temp around 70 degrees.This includes repairing shingle and installing gutter guards.
I wanted to explain why some mistakes will cause issues and how you can avoid them.The handyman is doing things wrong.
The edge that he is using has a leg that is too short to fit inside the gutter.This isn't necessarily wrong, but it is a combination of mistakes that make it a bad install.
The goal is to direct the water into the gutter and away from the house foundation.To correct this situation, you need to purchase a long enough vertical leg to reach the gutter.The gutter may need to be raised if they have been installed too low.
If you find yourself in a situation where you don't have access to your gutter, you can still increase your protection by using the proper drip edge.He is placing the edge against the body.Despite the gutter issue, the drip edge still provides some protection.Installation of this way will result in surface tension water running down the face of the fascia board and behind the gutter.
Pull the edge forward by 1/2” to correct the mistake.This will allow the run-off to trickle down into the gutter.The way he is doing it is better than the way this is done.The rain will run down behind the gutter and expose the fascia.
He is not creating the proper overlap at the corners.You can see that he is cutting the corner flush with the side that faces the street.The rain is going to run down the corner and come back between the spaces where these two sections meet.When doing any type of flashing, you should never butt two seams against each other.Make sure there is at least 2” of edge available to wrap around the corners to correct this situation.If your situation or code merits it.You can learn how to make the wraps.If necessary, practice on some scraps.
The drip edge would be installed prior to roofing shingles.The leg that extends down into the gutter has no face nails or screws.It would be supported by 1/2” furring strips.
In an imperfect world, you are likely to find that retrofitting drip edging presents you with some questionable situations.How do you install drip edge around gutter clips that are not in the way?
You should fold the tab if you are told to make two relief cuts around the gutter clips.I don't like that method because it interrupts the continuous barrier.Water can work its way behind the exposed edges if there is a way to overlap these cuts.I place the clip screws through the gutter and the edge.I always swap out the old screw with a fresh one and apply a layer of Silicone over it for extra security.
Unless local code dictates otherwise, the drip edge should always be installed with the flashing under the felt and over felt on the rakes.There may be an alternative way of installing the edge.They want it installed so that the drip edge must go over the underlayment and then be put into the starter course and tar paper.
The best way to install the edge is inside the gutter.The goal is to get the water into the gutter.It should not be installed against the gutter.
The rakes should always have an overlap of the drip edge on the eaves.If you do the eaves first, this will work out.Then, finish by flashing the edge on the rakes.
The nail spacing and pattern is dictated by your code.You should not place nails within 1 1/2” of the roof edge.The edge of the roof leg is where the nails should be set.
It is acceptable for the roof shingles to line up with the edge.It is best to have the roof shingles hang over the edge by a minimum of 1/2” and a maximum of 1/32”.Every region, city, or local may have slightly different requirements.It's a good idea to double check these instructions against your local code.
You should always follow your local code requirements regardless of whether you are retrofitting an old roof or installing a new drip edge.You should follow the instructions of the shingle manufacturer.
Your warranty can be voided if you go outside of the manufacturer's requirements.I don't know if I missed something, but you want to weigh any situational adjustments against that risk.Drop a question or comment and I will respond or answer it.
Don't miss anything!To get the inside scoop, subscribe to my newsletter.You will receive access to my gallery as a free gift.
Rachel has more than 20 years of experience in renovations, carpentry, and interior design and 10 years in graphic and web design.She uses her experience and knowledge to start her own digital media publishing company where she shares her knowledge across three different websites.
I had gutter guards installed a few years ago.There may be some controversy over these guards.They are installed under the first shingle.Does that provide the same level of protection?
Water can be forced backward under the shingles if the roof slope is not steep enough.The flow is straight down.The damage can still occur even with the added protection.The helmet guards can be placed over the top of the drip edge to overcome these issues.It may or may not void your warranty with the helmet guards, but it would provide you protection.If your roof slope is adequate, you will never have a problem and may prefer to sleep with your dogs.
I liked your write-up on the roofing edge.In your section, "Situations You May Face", you wrote that you don't like to cut the drip edge around the gutter hangers.I prefer to place the clip screws through the gutter and the edge.I always swap out the old screw with a fresh one, and then apply a layer of 100% Silicone over the screw for extra security.
I enjoy that detail a lot.There are gaps along my roof.A continuous metal barrier is provided from the top of starter metal to the bottom of the gutter.This detail should be used as a standard.
There is a problem with water working upward between the drip edge and gutter.Why not make that joint water proof by applying a continuous bead of sealant all along it?
The biggest problem I see is that the roofing people don't want to fuss with the gutter.I asked.The real interest of the gutter contractor is in installing new gutter.
Peter, roofers won't install gutter.That is not something they are capable of doing.The drip edge is usually part of a roofing job.You want the roofers to install the drip edge so there is room for the gutter.The gutter guy will finish up.If you don't have a General Contractor, you should check with the gutter guy to see if there are any specific issues that need to be looked at by the roofers.
Thanks for the well-written article, it provides valuable insight for my roofing project.Several of your photos show a brown colored drip edge along the rake/gable side, which is different than the pictures of the galvanized roof edge in other photos.The rake edge has a raised lip which the shingles butt up to.It has a nice look, compared to the alternative of a shingle overhang at the gable, although I could also see the tendency for water to find its way beneath the shingle.I am curious as to your thoughts of doing it this way, vs with the galvanized type depicted in the other photos, since there is no mention of this variety of drip edge.
You are correct.That was done to keep water out.There is flashing cement between the paper and edge.This was needed in a high-wind area.I don't like that style of edge.The lip can retain water and allow entry in the future.The image was used to show the correct order for installation and not to suggest a style.I would allow the overhang if code dictated otherwise.
The edge of my shed is being added.Is there a cut I should make to marry the two pieces, or do I just place one over the other?Is Silicone the seam?
During the initial demo of my new roof, the facia boards were damaged.When I pointed it out, they came, removed the newly installed gutter, and then screwed it back up after they reinstalled the facia and gutter.I no longer have a continuous edge and the corners are only caulked.Can I have the drip edges replaced after we reroofed?
They should be able to remove a portion of the drip edge if it is a standard one.It should be replaced with correctly overlapping corner sections.There is no reason to do a whole tearout if the rest is correct.They should be able to redo/replace the edge within a few feet from the corners.
A well regarded manufacturer in our area is almost done with the screen in deck.The shingles on the rake side extend over the edge.I don't know if I should demand that the shingles be trimmed or not.
It depends.It is standard to allow 1 to 1.5 inches of overhang if there is no edge.It should be around 3/4′′ with a drip edge.The singles can crack from lack of support or catch in strong winds if there is too much overhang.The requirements may vary from area to area.I would check with your city code.You can make your decision based on what your local requirments are.
I would like to install gutter and drip edge on my home.I have a roof.I don't know if I have to remove a row of tiles to nail in the drip edge.I'm wondering if you're supposed to put a band on the roof edge of the drip edge.I'm trying to avoid removing a row of clay tile.If the clay tile overhangs the roof by an inch, do I need a drip edge or just gutter?
I'm not as confident in my knowledge of tile roofs.I only did a few repairs on these.Most areas need a new edge with new installations.I would recommend the client get high-back gutter if I were doing a repair.The design of the high-back gutter will give you two-for-one protection.
Hello and welcome to my website.I am a Southern gal with an interest in organizing and woodworking.Read more about me.