Electric baseboard heating is less expensive and quicker to install than any other type of heating.Electric heat is the most expensive way to heat a space because of the high cost of electricity in your area.
Step 1: Determine room size by dividing the length by the width.
Step 2: Determine number and window type.
Older single pane windows transmit heat more quickly than newer double or triple glazed windows which are better at isolating different air temperatures on either side.
Step 3: Determine the number of walls in the space.
Step 4: If the space directly above and below the room is insulated, you should be able to see it.
A space below an attic or above a basement is considered to be insulated.
Step 5: If the doors are open from this room, then it's time to go outside.
Step 6: Determine how much electric heat is required to heat the space.
For homes built after the 1970s, 10 watt per square foot is required.There is a 12 foot by 14 foot room.The room should be heated with 1500 watt of heat, assuming a ceiling height of less than 8 feet.Assuming "standard density" baseboard heaters are selected for installation, 1500 watt of heat is a total of 6 feet.250 watt per foot is the standard density heat."high density" is a type of heat.HD heat has more power than the standard density heat, but it does not heat quicker or be operated for less.HD provides more heat with a smaller footprint.
Step 7: Determine how much more heat you need to install.
Windows type, number, insulation, etc., are all considerations.When buying heaters, will come into play.If the room suffers from all of the considerations, the baseline wattage should be increased by 100%.Adding additional heaters will not increase the cost of operation.During the colder days, additional heaters allow the room to maintain desired temperature, as opposed to having minimum heat installed.Without the baseline calculated amount of heat installed, it would not be possible to replace the heat as quickly as it was lost due to lack of insulation.If the room suffers from any of the issues listed above, it will need as much as 3000 watt heat.This applies to all types of heat and cooling in the summer regardless of fuel type or technology.Over the long run, insulation is inexpensive.
Step 8: Decide if you want to break up the heaters or not.
There are two ways in which the heat can be installed.In the example room, you can either install a 1500 watt heater or 2 or more.The latter method can be used for rooms at the corners of a building.Most of the heat loss occurs below windows.If no additional watt of heat were installed, the room would not reach the desired temperature.
Step 9: Determine how many circuits are needed to serve the heating load.
The number of circuits and wire sizes can be reduced with the installation of a heaters.The National Electrical Code allows 15 and 20 Amp circuits to carry up to 12 and 16 Amps, respectively.It is possible to determine the total watt allowed to be connected simply by adding up the Amps and subtracting them from each other.The circuit has a maximum power of 2880 watt.The 20 Amp circuit has a power output of 3840 watt.There is a maximum of 14 and 19 feet of heat.
Step 10: Determine the location of the thermostat.
The thermostat should be on the wall.It should not be located behind a door or above a heat source.
Step 11: There is a switch box on the wall at 60 inches up from the floor for the thermostat.
Use a knife or hand saw to open the wall.
Step 12: Provide a NM type cable from the electrical panel to the thermostat location for a 2 wire circuit.
It will probably take a lot of time to untangle the cable between the points.For this reason, many times a single heater sized to heat the entire space is selected so that fishing or snaking is minimized.After the box for the thermostat has been installed, it is necessary to indicate this cable as the "line" so that it can be determined.
Step 13: Pack the heating elements.
Remove the front covers from both ends of the heater.The desired location is where the heater(s) should be placed.
Step 14: The wiring compartments are on the ends.
There is no need for a box in the wall because they are provided.Simply create a small hole in the wall for the cable to come from and then pass through the appropriate wires at the back of the compartments to allow the cables to enter.There are connections to be made in the compartments.The information is detailed below.
Step 15: Provide another 2 wire cable the same size as the one that was installed between the thermostat and the panel.
After the box for the thermostat has been installed, indicate this cable as the "LOAD" so that it can be determined.
Step 16: There is an additional 2 wire cable between the first and next heaters.
Continue to daisy-chain as necessary.
Step 17: Attach the cable to the desired end of the heaters.
Step 18: Attach the jacket from the cable with a 20.3 cm plug.
The jacket should be inside the wiring compartment by the time the cable is put in.
Step 19: The wires in the compartment that the cables entered need to be separated.
Step 20: If two cables were installed, you need to connect the black wires.
Step 21: If two cables were installed, connect the white wires.
Step 22: If two cables were installed, you need to connect the bare wires.
Step 23: If the bare wire is provided, connect it to the green screw of the heater by using a crimp or screw.
Step 24: The black wire should be connected to one of the loose heater wires.
Step 25: The loose wire should be connected to the white wire.
Step 26: The wires should be connected tightly in the wiring compartment at the opposite end of the heater.
Step 27: The wall has a heater on it.
Step 28: The wiring compartment covers should be secured.
Step 29: For each heater, repeat.
Step 30: The thermostat needs to be wired.
All the wires need to be connected with a wire nut.If the thermostat is not already connected, install a short piece of bare wire between the bare and green wires.
Step 31: There are wires or terminals on the thermostat.
The thermostat should be inspected for "LINE" and/or "LOAD" markings.
Step 32: The black and white wires of the cable were "feed" earlier.
The black and white wires must be connected to a terminal.The black and white wire should not be connected together.
Step 33: The thermostat has a load side.
It should be connected the same way as the LINE side.
Step 34: The thermostat should be secured by coiling the wires into the back of the box.