It's not hard to make your own countertops since you can be specific about the look and style.This cheap material is easy to maintain and can last a lifetime.This article will show you how to make your own work of home-owner art.You can start with Step 1 below.
Step 1: Measure to make sure you have the countertop you need.
Measure the area you need to cover with your countertop.Don't worry about cut-outs for things like sinks, just get the shape of the rectangular or L shaped piece that you'll need.This will be very difficult to place if you try to do everything at once.Break it down into smaller sections if you can.There is an overhang from the edge of the cabinets.It's important to add this into the measurements for the sides that aren't attached to the wall.
Step 2: Measure like a sink for your cutouts.
Measure or trace the shape of the cutout you want to use for the sink onto some paper or cardboard.Transfer the shape to foam and cut it out.If you want to visualize the sink or other object, cut around it in a cardboard square.
Step 3: The base should be cut.
You can cut a base for your mold using the measurements that you took.You can use a table saw to cut the melamine.If you're making a countertop that's 25x60", you should cut a piece of melamine that is 26 1/2 x 61 1/2.
Step 4: Pick the thickness of the sides you want to cut.
The side pieces should be cut to the desired thickness of your countertop, plus a bit on both ends and one of the sides to adjust for construction.If you want the boards to overlap, adjust the measurements for the short and long ends.If they make the shape of the base, how this is done doesn't matter.For the long sides and short sides, the pieces would be cut to the same size as the thick countertops.We could change the measurement of the short sides to 25" so that they could nest between the long side pieces.The long sides could be adjusted back down to 60".Make sure to use a tape measure on the base to make sure everything fits.
Step 5: Attach the pieces together.
Using basic butt joints, drill pilot holes and screw the sides of the mold together.The sides can be attached to the base in the same way.The wall screws should be strong enough.
Step 6: Cut outs should be added.
Attach the foam cutout for your sink to the counter with strong, even-drying glue or rubber cement.You need to make sure the foam is not too high.When you pour the concrete, you need to make sure the foam doesn't get into the sink area.If the sink goes at the edge of the counter, it's better to build it into the mold and cut it out ahead of time.
Step 7: The edges of the mold should be caulked.
There is a small gap between the two pieces that are directly over the joints.To form the caulk to the joint, you should run a line of caulk along all the seams.Allow it to dry and peel off the tape.The concrete will leak out unattractively if this is not changed.As you work, wipe up any excess with paper towels.
Step 8: The foam and mold are clean.
Make sure the top edge of the form is level all the way around by using a carpenter's level.Sand it down to make sure it is nice and uniform.To clean the mold, use a shop vac and a damp cloth.Before moving on, let it dry.
Step 9: Adding more foam throughout the mold lowers the final weight.
The necessity for more concrete is greatly reduced by this little trick.Cut the foam to make it half the height of the mold.Glue down the foam between the walls.It is much lighter than concrete and will take up a lot of space.Put caulk down to the mold.Pack the foam pieces together on both sides with packing tape.You need to concrete around the entire perimeter if you want to leave a gap.
Step 10: Attach your steel re-enforcement wire to the concrete.
This helps with shaping and stability.To fit it into the mold, you may need to bend it a bit.You just want to make sure it fits.
Step 11: You should mix your concrete.
Use a mix that is designed for countertops or floors.You will want strengtheners and other materials to make your concrete function better for this purpose.Pre-mixed, high strength concrete is what you will want to use.You should be able to find both of these products at your local home improvement store.In order to get the right volume and consistency, you need to mix the concrete in a moving mixer.You can rent them from your local hardware store.You want a consistency similar to peanut butter.The instructions for mixing the concrete are provided by the manufacturer.High strength concrete uses less water than normal concrete.
Step 12: Take half the concrete and put it in the mold.
Use a shovel or scoop to pour the concrete into the form until it reaches the top edge.Push the concrete out to the sides as you work with a trowel or paving tool.
Step 13: The steel re-enforcement should be over the first half of the concrete.
If you place a steel mesh halfway through the pouring process, it will be completely entombed in the concrete.This is important for preventing cracks and creating a countertop that will last a lifetime.
Step 14: Over the re-enforcement, add the last half of concrete.
It's a bad idea to have too much concrete in the form.It is much harder to add in later than it is to skim off.
Step 15: The form should be screened at the top.
Using the edge of a flat board, lay it across the top of the form on one end and then slide it back and forth as you move down the frame to the opposite end.Make sure the top is level by taking off any extra concrete.Specialty concrete working tools can be used on the edge of 2x4.To distribute the concrete evenly, work the edge back and forth along the top.Use excess concrete to fill low spots.Extra concrete should be held onto for later use.
Step 16: Air bubbles can be released from the edges of the mold.
If you can, gently vibrate the sides of the form to get rid of any bubbles.You can use a sander on a low setting, without any attachment, and run it along the entire edge of the form for the easiest solution.Your goal is to get a nice top.Lifting and dropping the table is perfect.You can hit the sides of the table with a rubber mallet.
Step 17: To smooth out the entire top of the concrete, use a float or trowel, and use an edging tool.
Make a nice rounded edge around the entire mold by smoothing everything out.Let the edging tool sit and trowel out any imperfections created by it.After 1-2 hours, repeat this process.
Step 18: The concrete should be allowed to cure.
Allow the concrete to cure as long as the manufacturer tells you to, by covering it with plastic.It could be anywhere from a few days to a week.You don't want the concrete to be completely dry.You're ready to move forward when you can only create a small dimple.
Step 19: The forms should be released when the top is firm.
Remove the sides of the form and gently remove the melamine from the concrete.Put the concrete back on if it starts to fall.To smooth out the outside edge of the counter, use a trowel.It's easier to work with a small spray of water.You won't need much.The excess concrete can be troweled back on with water if it pulls off the wall.
Step 20: Wait until the concrete is almost completely dry to trowel over it.
The final troweling gives your countertop some character.It will lead to a nicer countertop.
Step 21: Remove the mold and bottom with a friend.
The bottom of the countertop needs to be dry.If you still have the side walls on, you should get a friend to help you raise the top of the countertop.The bottom of the counter top is exposed when you rip out the foam.Don't rush it.The concrete should barely hit your finger.The countertop should hang over the edge to allow air to dry.
Step 22: The countertop needs to be cleaned after it has dried.
Put on some rubber gloves and wipe down the countertop with a mixture of 10 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid to remove any remaining remnants.The acid should be removed with a squeegee.
Step 23: It's a good idea to sand your countertops.
Sand your countertop and sides with a 120-, 180, and 220-grit sandpaper and a sander.Dust can be removed with a cloth and some water.
Step 24: If you want, you can paint or acid wash the concrete.
After everything has dried, add the color to the concrete.If the coloring is made for concrete, you can use it.
Step 25: The countertop needs to be sealed.
When using a penetrative sealer, fold a rag as flat as possible and saturate it.If you want to cover the entire counter, wipe this in long strokes.Allow it to dry.This takes around 2 hours.
Step 26: Remove wax and buff the countertop.
To finish the countertops, use a food safe wax and buffer.You're good to go when they are shiny and the wax is absorbed.
Step 27: The countertop should be installed.
The countertops should be placed in their final location.If they aren't small enough to use their own weight, use glue.If the level is not found, use wood shims to get the desired level.