You can make your own jewelry at home with a lot of practice.You can experiment with different designs and ideas to create pieces that express your style.
Step 1: Prepare your workspace.
If you have enough space for your supplies, you can use any desk or table.Place wax paper over the entire work area.It's best to avoid the problem completely because it will be difficult to remove the drips and splashes.A bit of alcohol can usually remove it if you get it on a surface.You should wear rubber or plastic gloves and goggles to protect yourself.Work in aventilated area.The fumes can build up if windows and fans are open.If you have breathing difficulties, you may want to wear a respirator.
Step 2: Find things to add.
Get creative.You can use two- and three-dimensional objects.It's important to make sure that your arrangement will fit inside the mold.Some of the most popular ideas include broken or re-purposed jewelry, flowers, glitter, sprinkles, and transparencies with words printed on them.You can buy charms at craft stores or online.Some objects may not work as well as others.The loose crystal gems are often obscured by cured resin, which causes them to disappear inside the piece.
Step 3: It's a good idea to apply sealant to porous things.
The top, bottom, and sides of the porous adornments should be coated with Mod Podge or a similar clear sealant.Before using the adornments, let the sealant dry.These may be discolored if you skip this step.They can cause more air bubbles to appear.
Step 4: Take everything down to the size you need.
Make sure that the size of the piece matches the dimensions of your mold.
Step 5: Do you want to use molds or bezels?
Bezels are easy to work with since you don't need to remove the resin after it cures, but molds give you more flexibility in design.Charm settings are empty and open-ended.Once you cure the piece, you can attach it to a chain.The mold will only allow you to shape it.You will need to add hooks and clasps to turn the resin into a pendant or charm.You need to make sure that the molds you use are labeled.
Step 6: The molds should be coated with mold release.
You need to spray the mold with a mold release product if you decide to use it.Allow the mold to dry before continuing.Don't spray them with mold release.It's easier to remove the finished pieces from the mold release.Since the resin is supposed to stay inside, you want it to remain in place as firmly as possible.If you use plastic molds, mold release is required.
Step 7: A backing is given to the bezel.
Carefully stick a piece of packing tape onto one side of the bezel if you decide to use it.Make sure that the tape is secure and that there are no gaps between it.If the bezel is already closed on one side, then this is not necessary.If you are using a bezel with two open sides, follow this step.
Step 8: The right type of resin is what you should choose.
If you want the best results, choose polyurethane casting resin.Even after the pieces have hardened, the odor of the Polyester is still there.If you want the process to be easier, you need to make sure the resin you buy is mixed with the catalyst in a one-to-one ratio.
Step 9: The bottles should be placed in the hot water.
To keep the contents of the bottles submerged beneath the water, fill a small bowl with hot tap water and rest the two bottles inside.Do not use boiling water.It is easier to mix the two components when they are warm.It reduces the chance of dealing with air bubbles.
Step 10: There are equal parts of the catalyst and the resin.
Add equal parts of each to a small plastic or silicone measuring cup.For two minutes, stir with a wooden stick.The ratio specified in your instructions is something you should pay attention to.The 1:2 or 2:1 ratio of the resins to hardener is what some of them require.For this step, follow the instructions that come with your resin.More or less stirring time may be required for some resins.You shouldn't mix as much as you think you'll use.If you make too much, it will go to waste.After pouring the resin, follow it with an equal amount of catalyst.Measure out both components with a graduated measuring cup.Any graduated measuring cup should suffice since old, clean cough syrup measuring cups work well for this.You should use a cup that you don't mind sacrificing.It can be used for other projects, but not for food, drink, or medicine.Air bubbles can build up if you stir slowly.As you stir, make sure to remove the stick from the bottom and edges of the cup.
Step 11: If you want, you can add color pigments.
No color is needed if you want to make clear jewelry.If you want to give each piece a tint of color, now is the time to do it.Liquid colors can be added one drop at a time.If you want to combine the colored solution with the rest of the clear resin, you have to first combine dry pigments with a little.Some dyes are clear while others are opaque.If you use pearly or opaque dyes, most add-ins won't show up.
Step 12: A layer of resin is poured in.
To cover the bottom of the mold, pour the liquid mix into it.Slowly reduce the number of air bubbles.
Step 13: There are air bubbles.
For a minute or so, hold a hair dryer, lighter, or heat gun above the resin.If air bubbles are trapped inside, they should pop.It's best to remove the air bubbles in this layer now instead of waiting until the end, even though you'll be adding another layer later.
Step 14: Before adding heavier adornments, let the resin harden slightly.
Wait 15 minutes or so to allow your mold to be slightly hardened.Carefully place heavy three-dimensional objects on top of the bottom layer.The front of your piece will be the bottom of the mold.You help hold them in place by placing the heavy adornments between the layers of resin.If you didn't use layers, the pieces would sink before the resin sets.
Step 15: There is a final layer of resin.
The heavy adornments should be covered completely with additional resin.The top of the mold should be reached by this layer of resin.If they shift during this time, you may need to adjust the position of your adornments with a toothpick.
Step 16: If desired, add glitter.
If you want a glittery background, you can sprinkle glitter over the top of the mold.As it dries, glitter should float on the surface of the resin.The glitter will create a background when the top becomes the back.
Step 17: Before adding them, you need to coat them in resin.
Before putting any transparencies in the mold, make sure to dip them in leftover resin.The transparency can be dunked into the measuring cup.Use a hair dryer or heat gun to dry the resin.Air bubbles can form between the transparencies and the mold.The transparency should be placed upside-down because the bottom of the mold will be the front of your piece.
Step 18: Air bubbles can be removed.
To bring air bubbles to the surface, use a hair dryer or heat gun.
Step 19: Any paper background can be added.
If you plan to use a paper background, you should use tweezers to carefully place the paper over the top of the resin, aligning it as evenly as possible.If you place the paper upside-down, the decorative side will show from the front of the piece.
Step 20: Let the cure happen.
Put the filled mold aside and cover it with a clean box.Allow it to cure overnight.As it cures to protect it from debris, it is important to cover it.You need to follow the instructions of the manufacturer.Cure it long enough for it to be touchable.Don't wait until the cure is complete.
Step 21: The charms should be removed from the molds.
Once cured, you can use your fingers to remove the pieces from the molds.If the pieces are too soft to remove, put the mold in the freezer for 10 minutes.It will be easier to pop the finished pieces out.You will need to take additional steps before you can wear the piece as jewelry.
Step 22: The backing needs to be removed from the bezels.
If you use a bezel instead of a mold, you will need to remove the tape from the back of it.Do not remove the piece of jewelry.The charm is ready to be used as jewelry.
Step 23: There is a metal eye pin.
Carefully heat the metal over the flame of a candle or gas stove by grabbing the eye of an eye pin with pliers.For 5 seconds, only heat the metal.Work to prevent burns.You can use an eye pin that is shorter than the width of the piece.
Step 24: Attach the metal to the charm.
Carefully poke the side of the eye pin that is heated with one hand.The pin should extend halfway through the piece.If the resin is only partially cured, this will work.It will be hard if you allow it to cure completely.
Step 25: Attach the ring to the loop.
If the metal eye pin is cool enough to touch your bare fingers, slide a small jump ring into the eye.This will turn your piece into a pendant or charm.
Step 26: Attach the mount to the back of the material.
The ring mount or pin backing should be applied with quick hold contact.The mount or backing should be over the back of the piece.Don't wait until the glue is attached to the resin to prevent it from setting.The mount should be centered as possible.
Step 27: Let dry.
Follow the instructions of the manufacturer.This step will turn your piece into a ring or brooch.