Maples are easy to plant and add a colorful and hardy tree to your landscape.Pick a maple variety that fits your climate, available space, and soil conditions by doing a bit of homework.It involves digging a big hole, putting a tree in it, and filling it back in with soil and water.
Step 1: Choose a maple species that will fit your climate zone.
Maples can survive a wide range of climates.It is best to check with an arboricultural or tree nursery expert for advice on the best options in your area, as some species are better suited to certain conditions.Maple species can vary from shrub-size Japanese maples to sugar Maples that reach 75 ft in height and 15 m in canopy spread, so choose a species that suits your available space.In the U.S., most maple species prefer the USDA Zones 3-7, which covers most of the continental US.One of the most widespread American maple species, the red maple (acer rubrum), averages 50 ft (15 m) in height and 30 ft in canopy spread at maturity.
Step 2: Pick a spot where the tree won't interfere with utilities or overhang your home.
It is possible to provide wonderful shading by planting a maple near your home.The leaf canopy of any tree you plant should not overhang your home.If your chosen silver maple has an average mature canopy of 50 ft (15 m), you should plant it at least 30 ft from your home.Damage in storms can be caused by hanging limbs.The root system of a tree extends underground at least as far as the canopy, and can cause damage to your home's foundation.Make sure there are no overhead or underground utility lines in the area of the mature leaf canopy and root system.To mark underground lines, contact your local utilities.
Step 3: A location that gets more than 4 hours of sunlight per day is a good place to plant.
The best place for maples to grow is in a place that gets both sun and shade.If you choose a spot with less than 4 hours of direct sunlight per day, your maple won't achieve its full potential.The leaves of a maple tree may fall off if it is exposed to too much sunshine.Some maple varieties need different amounts of sunlight.Norway maples, coral bark maple, and paperbark maple need full sunlight, but can handle partial shade.
Step 4: If the soil doesn't get too dried out, test it.
Maple trees prefer soil that is moist most of the time.To test the soil drainage, dig a 1 ft (30 cm) deep hole, fill it with water, and let the water drain completely.How long does it take for the water to drain completely again if you refill the hole with water?The soil is ideal for maples if it takes between 5 and 15 minutes to drain.The soil is not ideal for a maple if it takes longer than 15 minutes to drain.Anything longer than 60 minutes is not good for a maple.It is okay for soil to drain in less than 5 minutes, but the tree may need more frequent watering as it gets established.
Step 5: If the soil pH is between 5.0 and 7.0, you can use a testing kit.
The kit will usually tell you to dig a 2–4 in (5.1–1.0.2 cm) deep hole in the soil, clear away any rocks or twigs, and fill the hole with distilled water.Wait about 1 minute after dipping the test probe into the muddy water.The kit has a color-coded guide that can be used to check the pH.You can buy a kit at the garden center.You will have better luck planting another tree if the soil pH is outside the range of 6.0 to 7.0.It is difficult to maintain a consistently altered pH for the life of a tree since maples can live for hundreds of years.
Step 6: When the air and soil are cool, it's a good time to plant a maple.
The best time to plant maple trees is late spring and early fall.When the air temperature is comfortable, aim for a time.The soil should be cool but not frozen.root growth is promoted by these conditions.Fall is the best time to plant a maple in some climates, while spring is ideal in other climates.A pro at a local plant nursery or agricultural extension office is your best bet.
Step 7: The hole should be 3x wider and 1x deeper than the tree's root system.
For example, if your tree comes with a root ball that is 2 ft wide and 61 cm deep, you can dig a 6 ft hole.If you are planting a tree without a root ball, use the same formula.It is easier to backfill the hole a bit deeper now that it is time to position the tree.Pull channels into the side walls and bottom of the hole with a hand rake or a dirt shovel if the soil is heavy clay.It will be easier for water and tree roots to get into the clay.
Step 8: Take the tree out of the container and loosen the root ball.
If the maple is in a tree nursery container, it is a good idea to lift the trunk straight up and out.If you haven't already, put on gardening gloves and use your fingers to loosen the root tips.If the root ball is tightly packed, use a garden hose to blow away some of the packed-together soil around the exterior.If the root ball is wrapped in burlap, you can remove it with garden shears.A bare root tree does not require much root preparation.Remove the root tips that are packed together.
Step 9: The root ball should be at or slightly above ground level if you stand the tree in the hole.
Lift the tree by its trunk and place it in the middle of the hole.In ideal soil conditions, the top of the root ball should be just a few inches above the ground.If this is the case, move on.Up to one-third of the root ball should be above ground level if the soil drainage is not ideal.In this case, remove the tree, replace it with a new one, and keep fine tuning as needed.
Step 10: Adding soil mixes improves sandy or clay backfill.
If the backfill soil that you dug out to create the planting hole is sandy or very dry, replace 25% to 50% of it with an even mixture of bags of topsoil and compost.If the backfill soil is packed with dirt or clay, replace 25%- 50% of it with a bagging mix.Simply remove some of the existing backfill, dump on the additions, and use a shovel to mix it all together.While you are at it, remove rocks from the backfill.Improving the soil will help the tree flourish early on and ease its transition into the native soil.
Step 11: Add water and fill the hole halfway around the tree.
Use your shovel and the backfill soil mixture to fill the hole halfway, then pour 1–2 US gal of water evenly over the soil to remove any air pockets.After the water soaks in, fill the rest of the hole up to the surrounding ground level, then pour on another US gal.Have your helpers hold the tree trunk to keep it upright.If you are working alone, try to hold the trunk with one hand and backfill with the other.If the root system is above ground level, mound up just enough soil to cover the exposed roots with a couple of inches of dirt.
Step 12: Remove air pockets with a tool or shovel.
Repeatedly hit the flat bottom of the shovel blade against the soil around the tree trunk.If you need to add more backfill to bring the soil back up to ground level, you'll have to repeat the process as needed.The small amount of soil that is covering the root ball is very lightly.
Step 13: Spread a layer of mulch over the soil around the tree.
The mulch should cover the entire backfill area or extend from the tree trunk all the way to the ground.Don't put mulch against the trunk.There is a gap between the trunk and mulch.Adding more mulch isn't necessary because the depth and spread of mulch is enough.If you pile mulch against the trunk, the wet mulch may cause rot on the tree bark and possibly kill the maple.It is more beneficial to dig mulch or moss around the trunk each growing season as it adds a small amount of organic matter and helps to keep the soil moist.
Step 14: At least 6 in (15 cm) deep is the ideal depth for the soil to be moist.
A few days after planting the tree, dig a small hole near the edge of the mulch bed.If the soil is dry, add water to the entire mulch bed, but not at the bottom of the hole.If you want to keep the soil moist, you have to know how much water you need to add and how often.Water the tree for at least the first year after it is planted.Adding 3–4 US gal (11–15 L) of water twice per week is possible.There is not enough water on your maple tree.
Step 15: To help the tree's roots take hold, stake it for its first year.
It is optional to take maples.To stake a newly-planted maple, pound in 2 wooden stakes that are equally spacing apart around the tree trunk and angle them 45 degrees away from the trunk.Attach a nylon string to each stake.Attach the strings securely but not too tightly around the tree trunk by covering it with rubber.The stakes should be removed after the first year of growth.They may restrict trunk growth if they don't.
Step 16: Prune branches a few times a year.
Pruning is helpful during the first few years of growth.If you want to avoid damaging the bark on the trunk or limb, use sharp pruning shears to nip off dead, damaged, intertwined, or low-hanging branches.Any branches that are growing near the soil line should be trimmed during the spring.In the summer, remove dead, damaged, and twisted branches for aesthetic purposes.In the winter, do another round of trimming.
Step 17: To respond quickly, check often for wildlife, insect, or damage disease.
If you want to know what to look out for in your area, consult a local expert at a tree nursery or agricultural extension office.To ensure your tree's survival, immediately deal with damage from insects and animals.Maples are vulnerable to bark damage from deer, which is why they are so resistant to insect damage.If you see missing bark or other signs of damage, wrap plastic or metal around the trunk.There are diseases that can cause spotting on leaves, bark damage, or other issues.If you see signs of disease, consult an arboriculturalist.