You can usually remove primer from most surfaces if you have enough force and patience.You need to know how to approach the problem area correctly on different surfaces.
Step 1: You can remove primer from concrete or brick with a caustic stripper.
Caustic stripper is a thick, gum-like substance.It is not a good idea to use a caustic stripper to remove primer from plastic.Pick up a caustic stripper if you want to strip a brick wall, clean a primer spill on concrete, or remove paint from a driveway.If you want to remove a larger surface area, you need to pick up plenty of white vinegar before you start.Betco's Extreme and Bolt Ultra Concentrated are popular caustic strippers.This stuff is usually put in a bucket.
Step 2: If you want to clean primer off of wood, choose a biochemical paint stripper.
Since it uses plant-based ingredients, biochemical stripper is the safest option.It's the safest option for wood, but it may not be strong enough for metal, concrete, or stronger surfaces.The stripper that is most likely to damage your surface is this type.If you have primer on a piece of art or a model airplane, use a biochemical stripper first.Citri-Strip is the most popular biochemical paint stripper, but SmartStrip and Franmar are also great options.These strippers come in plastic containers that look like laundry detergent.
Step 3: Heavy-duty solvent can be used to take stubborn primer off.
If the primer is thick or old, you should get a heavy-duty paint stripper.Heavy-duty paint stripper will get primer off of almost any surface.This stuff is toxic so you should not use it unless you have to.Heavy-duty solvent can be used on wood or masonry.Heavy-duty is usually code for high-VOC when it comes to paint strippers.Work in aventilated area and wear safety gear when using this kind of stripper because volatile organic compounds are toxic.The most popular heavy-duty solvents are Dumond's Peel-Away, Old Masters, and Klean-Strip.These are usually found in an aluminum can.
Step 4: Wear protective eyewear, a dust mask, and gloves.
Keep fumes out of your eyes by wearing protective goggles.To keep the stripper out of your skin, wear thick rubber gloves.Put on a dust mask if you are using a caustic or biochemical stripper.Do not use heavy-duty solvent if you have a respiratory problem.If you want to keep stripper off the floor, lay a tarp down.
Step 5: The stripper should be spread on the surface.
Put the stripping agent into the paint tray.You can dip a cheap paint brush into the stripping agent.Using back and forth strokes, spread the stripping agent over the surface.If you are stripping wood, apply it in the direction of the grain.Go back and forth in any direction to cover the surface.Most stripping agents are very thin.It's possible that you need to reload your brush every 4-5 strokes to keep it from drying out.
Step 6: There is a layer of stripping agent on the primer.
Continue spreading the stripping as you reload your brush.To completely cover the primer, cover every crack, textured surface, or gap in the material.Continue spreading the stripper until you have a layer of stripper on the surface.Thin layers are required for heavy-duty solvents.This agent will be effective if you build up a 8 in layer of stripper on the surface.In a thicker layer, caustic and biochemical strippers need to be built up.To find out how thick of a layer you need, read the label.A 2 in layer of stripper is needed to remove primer.
Step 7: If it came with your stripping agent, lay plastic over the surface.
Some strippers need to be covered with plastic sheets so they can work the stripper into the material.You must use the plastic sheets in the stripping agent's kit.Spread your first sheet out and press it against the surface you are stripping.Press out any air bubbles when smoothing it out.The plastic will stick to the surface.The sheets force the stripper into the material.This is important if you are removing primer from brick.
Step 8: The stripper needs to soak into the primer for at least 30 minutes.
The soaking time is listed on your container, so read the label thoroughly to make sure you don't miss anything.The stronger the stripping agent, the less time it needs to soak.Wait 30 minutes to 12 hours depending on what the label says to give the stripping agent time to eat away the primer.The primer won't fall off of the surface.The stripper weakens the primer to make it easier to remove.
Step 9: To remove the primer, use a paint scraper, putty knife, or razor blade.
Put your gear back on.If you want to remove the stripper from wood or masonry, you need a knife or scraper.The stripper can be removed with a razor blade.To peel the stripper and primer off, drag the blade of your scraper tool at a 15- to 25-degree angle to the surface.Remove the layers of stripping agent and primer with horizontal or vertical strips.Continue until the stripping agent is completely gone.You can work in any order you want, because the stripper has hardened.You can peel the primer off in either horizontal strips or vertical strips.You may need a wire brush after you clean porous surfaces.It can take a while to remove primer from a larger area.There are no easier ways to do this.
Step 10: If the stripper requires it, neutralize the surface with water and vinegar.
If you need to neutralize the surface when you are done, read the label of your stripping agent.If you do, fill a spray bottle with tap water.To get rid of acid from the paint stripper, spray the surface area with your mixture.While you get a testing strip out, let the vinegar soak for a minute or two.If you prefer, you can soak the object in the solution for 3-6 minutes.Caustic stripping agents need to be neutralized.Most strippers don't.You can't use the paint stripper alone.The acidic agent will be spread on the surface.
Step 11: If you neutralized it, you can test the surface with a pH testing strip.
You should get a pH testing strip and put it on a damp part of the surface.Wait for the strip to change colors when liquid is poured into it.You can use the reference chart to find out what the pH is on your surface.You are done if it is relatively close to 7 pH.Before testing it again, mist, wash, or soak the surface if the acidity is still too high.It is considered too acidic to have a reading below a 6.5 pH.If the surface has an acidic pH, it means that the stripping agent left something behind.If you touch the surface, you may get an acidic stain on your hands.
Step 12: If you didn't neutralize it, clean the surface in water or mineral spirits.
If the stripper's container doesn't mention anything about neutralizing it, read the label to see if you need to wash the surface with mineral spirits.Pick up some mineral spirits and rinse the surface.Use regular tap water to rinse the area.If you want to wash off the remaining stripping agent, just hose down the surface or pour water over it.It's an important safety measure.You must wash the surface off if you don't neutralize it.You could end up burning your skin if you skip this step.If you are working with mineral spirits, be careful.There is a dust mask and protective eyewear.If you have any spirits on your hands, wash them with soap and water.
Step 13: Allow the surface to air out until it is completely dry.
The amount of time it takes for the surface to dry depends on the material.Wood and masonry may take up to 24 hours to dry.Wait until the surface is completely dry before doing anything.If you want to speed this process up, you can open windows, turn fans on, or let an object sit in the sun.