Did you run out of hot water?It is possible to repair and replace the controls and heating elements of most common residential 120, 208 and 240 volt electric water heaters with traditional line voltage controls, not the microprocessor types that are starting to appear in stores.It doesn't discuss gas or propane fuel types or plumbing related issues.The discussion page has additional help for this detailed, comprehensive article.
Step 1: Check the electrical panel to make sure the circuit breaker is in the "On" position and not blown.
Wait 30 - 60 minutes for the water to warm and then reset the circuit breaker.If the water is still cool, follow the steps below.
Step 2: Don't use the power.
If a conductor comes in contact with the body, it can cause shock, burns and even death.To shut off the power in the electrical panel, move the handle of a switch or circuit breaker to the Off position.Put a note on the cover to let everyone know that work is being done to the water heater circuit.If you are working on the circuit you should use this.
Step 3: If there is a lower access panel, remove the upper one.
The metal covers can be held in place with screws.Save for reinstallation when you remove the screws.To make sure the power is off, use a test light to check between the wires and the metal case of the tank.If the power is still on, you need to locate the circuit breaker.If you want to prevent someone from turning the circuit on while you are working on the water heating system, lock off or secure the breaker.
Step 4: There are controls and a heating element that are blocked by insulation.
Plastic shock protectors can be seen after the thermal insulation has been removed.The wires should be folded away from the protective cover.Lift the tab at the top away from the clip to access the terminals.
Step 5: There are obvious signs of damage.
Poorly fitted or soldered cold water supply pipe, hot water output pipe or a poor seal between tank opening and heating element are some of the causes of water heaters leaking.It will cause internal damage to the controls if it continues to leak.There are wires and controls that are Rust coats.Potentially deadly shocks, heating and melting insulation can be caused by this.There are soot and black carbon deposits on the surface.Carbon deposits from the short circuit may make it difficult to see an exposed copper wire.A reduced circumference is needed to safely carry the heating element electrical load after wires have been damaged.The point of damage becomes a source of heat.Water and short circuit damage can be repaired or replaced.This includes wires, insulation, jumpers and controls.Rust is a conductor and provides unexpected paths for electricity.Unintended paths can be dangerous and make it difficult to fix them.The yellow wire between the control and element appears to have shorted to the tank, leaving a sooty black deposit on the wire and above.The thermostat has a lower left terminal.The plastic around the terminal is melting because of excessive heat.There is a smallUrl and a bigUrl on thewikihow.com.
Step 6: The parts are located below.
There are terminal screws and wires connected to it.The field wiring compartment is where the power goes to the rest of the water heater's controls and heating elements.The High-Temperature Limit Switch and Upper Thermostat are part of the "upper controls".There is no High-Temperature Limit switch for the lower section of most electric water heaters.Three of the four terminals are numbered and visible in the picture, while the second terminal is not identified as it is connected directly to the thermostat below via a factory installed jumper.There is a smallUrl and a bigUrl for the Waterheater.In the case of the one pictured, the actual temperature in degrees may be indicated by the dial.The thermostat can be found below the High Temp Limit switch.There is a smallUrl and a bigUrl for the Waterheater_007_779.The thermostat is usually connected to one of these wires.In this photo, it has two terminals and a gray metal clip attached to support the controls above, which is where it is usually located.Waterheater_008_693.jpg is a smallUrl.
Step 7: To make sure the power is off.
The black probe should be inserted into the black or common jack if you want to use the red probe.
Step 8: Measure the difference between the two.
The AC voltage range should be set to the highest possible.The probes can be touched to the top of the high temperature limit switch.The range can be lowered if the range is greater than the voltage displayed at the highest range.Double check the circuit panel.If power is not proved off, damage to the meter is likely and shock or burns are possible in the steps that follow.This is less than a watt.
Step 9: The multimeter should be set to resistance or Ohms.
The indication of the meter.This is an "open circuit" indication if the needle or pointer rests over the higher resistance values.If a digital meter is used, it can display OL or 1 without trailing or leading zeros.A value greater than the meter is capable of displaying is called an OL or 1 indication.In high resistance range, it is also called an "open circuit".If you notice the open circuit indication for this meter, you should take the measurement again after adjusting the range upward.If you don't know what your meter should read in an "ol situation", just leave the terminals unconnected to anything and not touching each other and switch the meter on, it will tell you the resistance of the air between them.
Step 10: It doesn't matter which wire you remove from the heating element.
Step 11: The jack marked "Common" needs to be connected to the black test lead.
Step 12: If there are more than one jack from which to choose, connect the red test lead to the jack marked "Ohms" or "Resistance".
Step 13: The range should be R x 1.
If the meter is not used for range selection, it is likely an autoranging type.The meter will adjust the range up or down as needed without any intervention by the user.The feature is more common on digital meters.Most analog meters don't provide manual range selection.The low values of 0 through 500k and 1M are more accurate than the higher values, but will work well for this procedure.There is a huge difference between 20K and 20M ohms when reading an auto-ranging digital meter."K" and "M" indicate thousands and millions, respectively.The examples would be read as 20,000,000, 20,000, and 20K, or 20 million, ohms.Each is 1000 times larger.
Step 14: The metal tips of the probes should be pressed together.
The analog meter should move to the lowest value of the resistance scale.A "very low" value should be indicated by the digital meter.Go to the "Zero Adjust" knob and turn it so that the meter indicates as close to zero as possible.The Adjust Zero feature is not found in most digital meters.This needle position on the dial is the " short circuit" or "zero ohms" indication for this range of the meter.The resistance range can be changed.If you can't zero the meter, the measured resistance values will be wrong.Since there is no zero adjust feature, the meter cannot display a value lower than this one.
Step 15: If needed, replace batteries.
If you can't get a zero ohm indication on an analog meter, the batteries should be replaced.Fresh batteries can be used to try the zeroing step above again.Digital meters show the discharge level of the battery and can be used to replace it.The battery charge state can be determined by checking the meter manual.
Step 16: One probe to each screw should be pressed against the terminal of the heating element.
You can read the display of the meter.To make sure the value displayed is real, look for a range multiplier in the display.It is considered "good" since the meter indicates 12.5 ohms resistance and it is within acceptable limits.
Step 17: A good heating element will read a low value between 10 and 20 ohms depending on the wattage of the element and the meter.
This online calculator can be used to determine the resistance value for a good element.The picture shows the "nameplate" information of the water heater.There are two different wattage ratings.The upper and lower elements have the same wattage rating when connected to a 240 volt supply.The "3500 / 3500" rating is the wattage of the upper and lower element when connected to a 208 volt supply.The types of applications that are found are also found in residential applications.
Step 18: Check for an element that is grounded.
The meter needs to be set to the highest resistance scale.
Step 19: The probes should be held at the end of the test leads.
To the right, the analog meter pointer should move to the lowest values of the resistance scale.The value on the digital meter should be very close to zero.The "Zero Adjust" knob needs to be turned so that the meter indicates as close to zero as possible.There is a chance that the digital meter does not have the Adjust Zero feature.This is the short circuit or zero ohms indication for the resistance range of this meter.When changing resistance ranges, the meter should always be zero.
Step 20: Press the probe against the terminal screws.
The probe should be pressed firmly against the metal tank or heating element.To make a good contact, remove the metal.The "infinity" indication should be displayed on the meter.The element should be replaced if the meter displays a value other than a very high value.
Step 21: To perform the resistance check in the previous steps, you need to connect the wire that was removed from the heating element.
Step 22: To gain access to the lower thermostat and heating element, you have to repeat the steps.
The lower access panels were removed.There is no reset button on the top.
Step 23: The thermostat needs to be set to minimum.
Step 24: The top thermostat should be set to maximum.
Step 25: There is warm water in the tank.
It may be difficult to get the expected changes if the tank is cold or hot.
Step 26: The power to the water heater needs to be restored.
The power is on for the rest of the steps.If not paying attention, the risk of shock injury is greatly increased.It could cause a short circuit.
Step 27: Attach the red test lead to the "Ohms" or "Resistance" jack of the meter.
Step 28: The range of the meter should be set to the lowest value.
The most common type of water heaters are the 120, 208, and 240 volts.If you want to measure "line voltage", replace it with the voltage for your water heater.
Step 29: Check the top heating element's terminals for line voltage by touching a probe tip to each terminal, as done in the resistance test earlier.
In the U.S., the line voltage is 120, 208 or 240.The system's line voltage is under test.If the element is within a few percent of 203, and if it passed the resistance or test above, the water in the tank will be heating.
Step 30: If there is no power, try to reset the high temperature switch.
There is a button above the thermostat."RESET" is printed on it.Press in with a screwdriver or pencil.A mechanical "click" should be felt if it is tripped.A tripped high temp switch is a sign that the thermostat won't open.There will be more on this later.
Step 31: Check the heating element for power after attempting to reset.
Step 32: If there is still no power, use the probe tips to test the top left and right terminals of the high temp switch.
Step 33: Trouble is an open circuit if there is no power.
The field wiring compartment, along with the length of the cable that feeds the heater, and the electrical panel are all important to check.Unless the power is shut off at the panel, this circuit is still live.All wirenuts and connections should be tightened in the wiring compartment and between the junction boxes and the electrical panel.If the circuit breaker is tripped, replace it with a new one.There is power at the circuit breaker.A circuit breaker that trips immediately after being reset is a bad one.
Step 34: Line voltage at the top heating element should be tested once power is restored to the high temp switch.
Carefully read the rest of this step until it makes sense, as it is the "why and how" of the thermostats.Understanding how the two thermostats interact is the key.The top thermostat can either be positioned to the top element or the lower thermostat.The lower thermostat is "on and off", not one or the other like the top thermostat, because it prevents voltage from reaching the lower element.The water in the top of the tank needs to be cooler than the thermostat in order for the water to have the same temperature.The top thermostat is considered "satisfied" if the water in the top part of the tank reaches a certain temperature.If the water temperature in the bottom part of the tank is higher than the thermostat's setting, the lower thermostat is turned off and the voltage is prevented from reaching the heating element.If the water temperature in the bottom part of the tank is lower than the setting on the lower thermostat, a thermostat that has switched power to a heating element or cooling compressor is said to be "The top thermostat will detect if the water in the top of the tank is cooler than the temperature on the bottom thermostat.The power from the lower thermostat to the top heating element is switched back and forth.The operation continues until the water in both halves of the tank is the same as the thermostat settings.If the water temperature is already higher than the highest setting of the thermostat, the top element won't turn on.No click will be detected when the temperature is turned up and down.The water in the tank needs to be cooler.The easiest and fastest way to allow hot water out of the tank is to open the faucet.When cold water enters the bottom of the tank, it will mix with the hot water to lower the temperature.
Step 35: The top controls should be replaced if line voltage is not found at the element.
Step 36: The top thermostat should be set to minimum.
Step 37: The lower thermostat should be set to maximum.
Step 38: Check the bottom heating element.
Step 39: If there is no power, determine which wire is connected to the thermostat terminal screw.
These are the screw terminals.The power screw terminals are on the thermostat and heating element.Touch the red and black probes to the power screw terminal of the heating element and thermostat, respectively.Line voltage will be expected.
Step 40: Upper controls should be replaced if line voltage is not found.
Step 41: Touch each probe to the terminal screws to check for line voltage.
Step 42: If the tank is cool, replace the lower thermostat.
Step 43: Wait for water to heat or perform resistance checks on the elements once the power is off if line voltage is found.
The water must be heated unless the heating element has failed.
Step 44: If you want your thermostat to be set higher than 140 degrees, return it to an equal value of your choice.
The water temperature is only 150 degrees and it takes two seconds to cause a burn.It takes 10 minutes when the water is 120 degrees.The skin of children and infants will burn more easily than that of an adult.It is possible to choose a temperature closer to 120 degrees.Lower temperature settings can result in reduced energy costs.
Step 45: Remove insulation and access covers.
Step 46: The power to the water heaters should be off at the fuse, circuit breaker or service switch.
Step 47: The heating elements are immersed in the water of the tank.
The water level in the tank must be lowered to a point below the level of the element to be removed in order for the water to leak out.emptying the tank's entire contents will prevent unexpected spilling of water if the lower element is removed.
Step 48: Shut off the cold water supply to the water heater so that you can quickly drain and fill it.
To relieve vacuum pressure, open the nearest hot water faucet.The tank will only drain down to the highest point of the hose if the garden hose is extended to a floor drain that is lower than the drain valve.Go to the bottom of the water heater and open the drain valve.
Step 49: If the tank is empty, close the drain valve.
Step 50: The heating elements have wires in them.
Step 51: One of several methods is used to secure the heating elements.
The bolts that are installed through the holes are the first method.Simply use a wrench to remove the bolts and elements.The second method uses a threaded portion of the body element that is under a hexagonal shaped flange.A 1-inch sockets will fit perfectly.If you can't get a sockets of that size, use a water heater element wrench, channel-lock style pliers or an adjusted wrench.To loosen the element, twist the counter-clockwise.
Step 52: The opening for the element needs to be cleaned.
It is important that all gasket material be removed to reveal a smooth surface.A wire brush and/or sandpaper should be rubbed over the opening to make it easier to work on.
Step 53: Purchase correct replacement parts if you copy the nameplate data.
The old element should be compared to the new element.The upper and lower elements are the same.
Step 54: The element has a gasket on it.
Step 55: If the replacement element has a gasket, it is not necessary to wrap Teflon tape or apply pipe dope on the threads of the new element.
Step 56: Attach the element to the opening of the tank with bolts through the flanges or threads.
Water will leak out when the tank is filled and under pressure if the element is not snugged tightly.The best way to tighten these bolts is to use one nut and the other nut as needed.Don't tighten.
Step 57: Open the cold water supply valve if the nearest hot water faucet is not open.
At first, there will be no sound coming from the hot water faucet.The dirty water will follow the hot water faucet as the tank continues to fill.Continue filling the tank until the discharge water from the hot water faucet runs clear and without sputtering.
Step 58: The hot water faucet needs to be shut off.
Step 59: There is evidence of water leaking from the new element.
To stop the leak, tighten as needed.It is necessary to repeat as necessary.If a leak can't be stopped it will need to be disassembled and cleaned to ensure a 100% seal.
Step 60: wires to heating element
Before power can be applied, the heating elements must be submerged in water.Failure to fill the tank prior to applying power will cause instant heating element burnout and require replacement.
Step 61: Power should be applied to the water heater.
Step 62: To prevent water hammer, open the hot water faucets in the home to allow the pipes to refill slowly.
Work your way up to the highest level of faucets.The shower head and aerators should be removed from the sink faucets and spray heads.
Step 63: The power to the water heater needs to be turned off.
Step 64: The controls on the tank do not need to be emptied.
Step 65: Pick wires and respective terminals.
If you want to label the wires, you can either write numbers on masking tape or apply colorcoded tape to them.
Step 66: The controls are held in place and pressed against the tank.
No screws are used.Lift the steel fingers on both sides of the control away from the tank and slip the controls out.The controls from seating may be damaged due to excessive force on the fingers.A poorly seated control prevents it from properly detecting tank temperature, as it relies on firm physical contact with the tank for heat transfer.The controls on the hot tank should be removed and retested to make sure the temperatures were not causing a cutout.
Step 67: You can get correct replacement parts by copying the data of the water heater.
The old controls can be compared to the new controls.
Step 68: The controls of the tank need to be cleaned.
Rust, debris, and dirt can be removed.
Step 69: Make sure the controls are touching the tank surface by putting them under the steel fingers.
Step 70: The old controls have labels applied to them.