Thin pieces of wood are attached to furniture to hide cheaper material.Over time, veneer may warp, raise off the surface or chip due to wear and tear.The veneer can be made to lie flat on the surface so it looks new.If there is bubbling in the middle of the veneer, glue it back down to flatten it.If the veneer is discolored, you can replace it with a new veneer patch.You will be able to fix your furniture with the right tools.
Step 1: Remove the dry glue from the veneer with a file or paperclip.
If you lift the edge of the veneer, you can fit the file under it.If you want to break down leftover glue on the furniture, Rub the surface under the veneer with the file.You can see your work area if you blow away the dust.Continue to remove as much glue as possible.Don't pry the veneer too far up since you could cause it to break or snap.
Step 2: Use a knife to spread wood glue on the veneer.
Lift the veneer with your nondominant hand by applying a bead of wood glue along the edge of the knife.Remove the blade of the knife from the veneer and piece of furniture.Try to make the layer as thin as possible.You can spread glue in tight areas with the flat, flexible heads of the Palette knives.You can buy them at a hardware store.You can spread glue with a toothpick if you don't have a knife.
Step 3: To wipe away excess glue, press the veneer down and use a damp shop cloth.
Wet a cloth with warm water and wring it out.To spread the glue out more, push down on the top of the veneer.Work from the center of the raised area toward the edges to get rid of excess glue.If glue comes out with the cloth, wipe it down.To flatten large bubbles of glue underneath the veneer, push lightly for the first few times.It will be more difficult to remove wood glue from furniture later on.
Step 4: There is a piece of wax paper on the veneer.
The shiny side of the wax paper should cover the entire glue area.Glue is less likely to leak out the sides if you have 1 inch of wax paper extending past the glue section.The glue may stick to the clamps if you don't use wax paper.
Step 5: Take a piece of wood and put it on top of the wax paper.
Pick a piece of wood that has a flat side large enough to cover the glue section.Attach the wood to the wax paper using a C-clamp.Every 6 inches (15 cm) down the length of the wood, add additional C-clamps.The wood has time to dry so leave the clamps on.It is less likely to develop blisters or damage in the future if the veneer is fastened down.You can find C-clamps at your local hardware store.You can use any scrap piece of wood as long as it has a flat surface.
Step 6: Use a damp shop cloth or abrasive pad to clean off dried glue.
Wet a shop cloth with warm water and wring it out.If there is excess dried glue over the edges, rub it over.If the glue sticks on the exterior of the vinyl, use an abrasive sponge and apply light pressure to break it down.If you apply firm pressure while you remove glue, you could make the veneer discolored.
Step 7: To remove the air from the blisters, cut a slit in the middle.
To make it less noticeable, position your cut so it runs with the wood grain.You can pierce the other side with a utility knife.If you want to poke a needle into it later on, you need to make a slit about half the length of the blisters.The bubbled area on the surface of the veneer is caused by blisters when you set something hot on it.If the knife slips, cut away from your body.
Step 8: Put wood glue on the surface of the blisters.
The cap on the wood glue needle needs to be removed.Put the needle in one side of the veneer and press it down.The glue should be spread evenly by moving the needle tip around.Glue was applied to the other side of the slit.If you don't have a wood glue needle, you can use a toothpick or knife.
Step 9: Spread the glue by pressing down on the veneer.
The slit in the center is where you can push from the edges.As you work to create a thin, even layer of glue underneath the blister, apply firm pressure.To make it easier to adhere to the surface, try to make the blisters as flat as possible.If there is excess glue coming out of the slit, wipe it away with a damp cloth.
Step 10: There is wax paper over the veneer.
Remove the sheet of wax paper that extends around the blisters on each side.The shiny side of the wax paper should be pressed against the veneer.Wax paper can be used to prevent the veneer from sticking to the clamps.
Step 11: Put a piece of wood over the veneer.
There is a piece of wood on top of the wax paper that is large enough to cover the entire blister.Attach a C-clamp to your piece of furniture or work surface to hold the wood block against the veneer.If the block doesn't stay flat against the veneer, you should put more clamps on it.The wood glue has time to set if the veneer is left overnight.Since the veneer could still raise off the furniture and form another blisters, don't remove the wood block any earlier.
Step 12: The glue is dried on top of the veneer.
Remove the wax paper, wood block, and clamps to see your repair.Light pressure is applied as you work over the slit.Continue smoothing out the edges until they are flush with the rest of the veneer by removing the dried glue around the hole.You may sand through the veneer if you press too hard.If you want to see what you are doing, blow the dust away or wipe it off with a damp cloth.
Step 13: If it is along the edge of the veneer, tape it around.
Attach a strip of painter's tape along the outer edge of the furniture so it extends over the surface.Make sure the tape is straight around the outer edges of the veneer.Continue applying tape to the sides and corners that have chips.Painter's tape helps form straight, clean edges.If you want to fix chips in the corners of drawers or along the edge of a table, this is the way to go.If you fill chips that are not along the edge, you don't need tape.
Step 14: A paper plate has wood filler and hardener on it.
If you want to fill your furniture with wood chips, you need to read the directions on the packaging and add enough to a paper plate.Add the listed amount of the solution and mix with a stir stick.Continue stirring until the wood is tacky.You can buy wood at your hardware store.If you want to match the color of the original veneer, use a stainable wood filler.If you plan on painting over the veneer later on, you can use any wood filler.It will take 15 minutes for the wood to set and be difficult to work with.
Step 15: The plastic scraper can be used to press the wood filler into the damaged sections.
Remove the paper plate with a plastic scraper and push the wood into the damaged area.While applying firm pressure, move the scraper in multiple directions to allow the filler to work deeper into the wood.Make sure the corners and edges are straight.Remove any woodfiller from the surface.It may have dried out before you were able to use it if you have trouble getting the wood into the chipped sections.Before you combine more wood and hardener, you should scoop out as much as you can.
Step 16: Allow it to dry for a while.
The wood can be left alone in a dry place for a while.After 15 minutes, lightly tap on the wood to see if it's solid.Allow it to dry for another 15 minutes before checking again.If you filled in large areas, it may take up to 2 hours to set the wood.
Step 17: If you want the wood to be flush with the veneer, you have to sand it.
Rub any rough edges with 140-grit sandpaper after removing tape around the wood filler.Work in the same direction as the wood grain on the veneer to make it easier to blend in.Light pressure can be applied to get rid of raised seams.Since it will make the surface look odd, be careful not to oversand.
Step 18: To match the veneer, apply stain to the wood filler.
If the stain doesn't match the rest of the veneer, it's time to test it on a patch of wood.Follow the direction of the wood grain when brushing the stain on with a paintbrush.It takes 6 to 8 hours for the stain to dry.If you fill sections less than 1 square inch, try using a wood stain marker.If you plan on painting over the wood veneer, you don't need to apply stain.
Step 19: The replacement veneer should be the same color as the original.
Use a stain color that matches the color of the existing veneer and test it on a scrap piece to make sure it's the same color.Paint a layer of the stain onto the replacement veneer and wipe off any excess with a shop cloth along the wood grain.Wait for the stain to dry before using the replacement veneer.If you use veneer that is the same thickness as the original, it won't look cohesive.
Step 20: There is a diamond-shaped patch on the replacement veneer.
The patch needs to be large enough to completely cover the damaged area.The wood grain should be at a 45 degree angle to the sides.To cut out your patch, use a utility knife and a straightedge.Since the patches are at an angle, you can hide the seams between the replacements and the originals.
Step 21: Take a look at the outline of the patch.
The edges of the patch should be at an angle to the wood grain to match the original veneer.Hold the patch in place with your nondominant hand and trace it with a pencil.If you want to see your lines while you are working, make them dark.While you are working, set the patch aside.Since you can cut the shape or position it wrong, you should always work directly from the patch.
Step 22: To slice through the veneer, use a utility knife.
Place a straightedge against your outline and press a blade into the veneer at the beginning of your cut.Only push the blade deep enough to cut through the veneer, which is usually about 8 in (0.32 cm) thick.To loosen the veneer around the area you are patching, pull the blade along the outline.The wood underneath could be damaged if you press too far down.You don't get hurt if the knife slips if you move the blade away from your body.
Step 23: Glue the damaged area off with old veneer.
The chisel should be against the bottom edge of the veneer.Lift up the old veneer with the chisel if you hold it near horizontal.Work in small strokes so you don't damage the wood.The old veneer pieces should be thrown away when you cut the outline with your knife.To force the chisel through, lightly tap on the end of the handle with a hammer or mallet.If you accidentally damage the wood underneath the veneer, fill it in with wood filler and let it cure before attaching the patch.
Step 24: Glue hides to the furniture.
You can apply the glue directly to the clean surface where you want to place your patch.To create a thin, even layer, use a plastic scraper or a knife to spread glue over the entire surface.It takes 15 to 20 minutes for the glue to set.Hardware stores can sell hide glue.Wood glue may not adhere as well.
Step 25: There is a veneer patch and a sheet of wax paper.
Place the veneer patch on the piece of furniture so all of the seams are visible.Press the patch down onto the glue when you are happy with the placement.To protect the patch, put a piece of wax paper over it.The hide glue can't stick to the pieces of wood holding the patch down.If you place the patch wrong, try lifting it out of the glue as soon as possible.
Step 26: Attach a piece of wood to the patch with glue.
Place a larger piece of wood on top of the wax paper to cover the entire patch.C-clamps are placed around the piece of wood to hold it against the furniture.The glue has time to set if the wood is left overnight.If one side of the patch is set higher than the other, make sure to distribute the pressure evenly on the piece of wood.
Step 27: Sand the surface to remove glue.
Take the piece of wood and wax paper off the patch.Rub 180-grit sandpaper along the wood grain, focusing on any raised seams or dried glue on the surface.Light pressure should be applied so that you don't wear the veneer.The patch needs to be flushed with the original veneer.