How To Set up a pig cage.

The first thing to do if you want to keep a guinea pig as a pet is to find a place to live.When it comes to their housing requirements, the guine pig is often misunderstood.The small animals love to run, play, and interact with each other.It's important to make sure they have a cage that is big enough for your pig to stay in.

Step 1: The cage's size should be considered.

A cage of at least 7.5 square feet is needed for the two female guinea pigs.Determine how many square feet you will need by dividing the number of guinea pigs by four.The additional four square feet should be given to the male guinea pigs.The bigger the cage, the better!The pigs love running and popcorning.It's not possible in a small amount of space.A large cage is needed for exercise.

Step 2: Purchase a hutch.

Hutches can be used for outdoor exposure.You can buy a simple one-story hutch with an opening and built-in indoor section, or a two-storey one with a ramp.They are still limited despite the fact that a two-story hutch will likely provide more room.Hutches that expand outside should be considered.

Step 3: Consider buying a cubes and coroplast cage.

C & C cages can't be kept outdoors due to their low security and lack of protection from weather elements.C & C cages are popular among guinea pig owners due to its large size, easy expansion and access, and cheap material.A C & C cage is the most suitable for an indoor guinea pig.

Step 4: Purchasing a chicken house is a good idea.

Chickens are similar to rabbits with the exception that they are larger in order to accommodate a full flock of chickens.It's even better if you have attached runs that allow your guinea pig access to the lawn.

Step 5: Purchase a wire cage.

Don't fall into the trap of buying a cage that's too small for your guinea pig, wire cages offer satisfactory indoor use.You need a cage that is at least 7.5 square feet.The wire cage should not have a wire bottom.bumble foot can be caused by wire flooring, which is why the pigs have sensitive feet.Don't buy a wire cage that is designed for rodents.The smaller rodents can't survive the same living conditions as the guine pigs.

Step 6: Purchase a rabbit or guinea pig.

Run are not the safest to use outdoors due to their lack of protection from predators and harsh weather conditions.During warm weather, a run is the best way to provide exercise and enrichment to your guinea pig.The runs can be attached to the houses to give them more space.

Step 7: There are flimsy pet store cages.

Many pet stores sell cages that are too small for a guinea pig to live in.Most pet store cages don't meet the minimal space requirements of 7.5 square feet and are primarily designed for smaller rodents, such as mice and hamsters.

Step 8: Don't purchase an aquarium or glass tank.

Aquariums were once a popular option for people who didn't have time to research the housing requirements for guinea pigs.Glass tanks don't allow for proper air circulation and therefore are frowned upon.

Step 9: Don't buy a cage that has a wire bottom.

The cage should have a flat and solid bottom.Because guinea pigs have sensitive feet, cages with wire bottoms have a high risk of causing bumble feet.

Step 10: Your guinea pig's home needs to be predator proof.

If there are cats or dogs in your home or outdoors, it's your job to make sure your pet is safe and secure.There should be locks on the doors of the cage, a sturdy roof, and a cage made of strong material, such as wood or metal.Outside, a wire or C & C cage is not enough.They don't provide protection from predators.

Step 11: The cage should be placed in a location that is satisfactory.

If you live in a region with unpredictable weather patterns and fluctuations in temperature, you should keep your animals indoors.When the cold or hot months peak, keep an indoor cage for your guinea pig.It's important that the pigs are kept in a stable environment because they are sensitive to temperature.Your guinea pigs should be kept in a room that is at least 65 degrees.The pigs don't do well in humid places.The humidity encourages the growth ofbacteria.guinea pigs should not be placed in an area that is prone to loud noise, such as next to a television or stereo system.If you have young children, place your guinea pig's cage in a room where you can watch them and supervise them at the same time.

Step 12: Purchase a ramp for your cage.

If you're buying a cage that is multiple story, make sure the ramp you get is suitable for the size of your pig.Pick a ramp that has soft sandpaper and juts to ensure good grip, and avoid ramps that are too steep for your animals to climb.

Step 13: Don't deal with toxic materials.

There are different types of bedding to choose from.There are multiple commercially marketed bedding for small animals that may harm them.Do not use cedar or pine shavings.These types of wood can cause serious respiratory issues in guinea pigs.They can get stuck in your pig's lungs.As long as it's kiln-dried and dust-extracted, pine can be used.Don't use sawdust.Similar respiratory issues can be caused by the dust from sawdust.Do not use corncob bedding.Corncob can harm your guinea pig's feet and cause them to develop a type of infections called bumblefoot.The bedding has a tendency to mold.Don't use newspaper.Newspaper can be used at the bottom of the cage to catch urine leaks.It isn't absorbent enough to be used alone.Don't use straw.The consistency of straw makes it easy to poke or harm a guinea pig's eye.It's not absorbent enough to be used as their main bedding.

Step 14: There are mixed reviews on wood.

The volatile oils and dust present in wood can cause health issues, such as dry skin, eye irritation, and respiratory infections.Wood will not cause long-term harm if you air it out for several days and you seek a safe wood material that is dust-extracted, kiln-dried.

Step 15: Consider the use of aspen wood.

Aspen is different from pine in that they aren't aromatic.Regardless of the type of wood you use, you should look for packaging that is specifically labelled as dust-extracted.

Step 16: CareFresh is a good option to consider.

CareFresh is a paper-based bedding that is made from paper waste.There are harmful aromatic hydrocarbons in pine and cedar oils.They have a range of coloured or scented bedding.

Step 17: Consider using sheets of paper.

You can either buy shredded paper from pet stores or shred your own.Paper is a safe material to use because it is free of toxins and aromatic oils.The smell of urine can linger and require frequent changing because of the low absorbency of bedding.

Step 18: Consider the use of fleece.

Fleece is a good choice of bedding for indoor cages as they are soft and safe to use.Special fleece blankets that are designed for small pets can be purchased online or at your local pet store.Fleece blankets need regular maintenance in order to stay clean.Spot-cleaning is important.

Step 19: Purchase a bottle of water.

A bottle of water is enough for a single pig for three days.There is a non-leak water bottle that is suitable for small animals.You can use a water bowl instead of a bottle.Water bowls are not an enclosed container so they attract mess and dirt.A large spill over the cage might be caused by your guinea pig knocking the bowl over.

Step 20: A food bowl is purchased.

You will need two food dishes, one for your guinea pig's pellets and another for their fresh fruit and vegetables.Purchase a bowl made of ceramic rather than plastic.The bowls are difficult to overturn.The bowls need to be large enough to hold a cup of vegetables and acup of pellets.If you have more than one guinea pig, you will need to have at least two of each dish.

Step 21: Purchase multiple hideouts for your pig.

guinea pigs are easily frightened by their surroundings.Providing multiple hideouts for your guinea pig, such as huts, bridges, and shelters, will reduce stress levels within the cage.

Step 22: Purchase cage toys.

In order to reduce boredom and encourage play and exercise, toys offer stimulation and enrichment.Consider toys like igloos, tunnels, bridges, wood blocks, hammocks, cosies, hay stuffers, and treat balls.Don't buy toys with splinters, wire balls, or toys that can cause a child to choke.Do not use exercise wheels or balls.These toys are harmful to your guinea pig's spine and don't promote exercise.

Step 23: A hay rack is a good idea.

Hay rack should not be a substitute for free-feeding hay, as they can help bundle the hay together and encourage feeding.Choose a hay rack that is made of a safe material, such as wood, as opposed to wire hay racks that put your guinea pig at risk of getting their head and bodies stuck between the metal bars.Hay can be placed in a shallow litter tray to keep it all in one place.

Step 24: Purchase cleaning products.

If you decide to spot- clean, the pigs need their cages cleaned at least once a week.You will need a brush, dustpan, cloth, gloves, pet-friendly antibacterial spray, a scooper, and bin bags.

Step 25: Purchase grooming products.

While grooming products aren't necessary for short-haired guinea pigs, they are beneficial for owners of long haired breeds.Get a soft-bristled brush, hair clippers, and nail-trimmers.

Step 26: Take care of your guinea pig.

Hutches are easy to assemble if you have the instructions and all the parts.Tools are likely to be needed to help assemble the hutch.

Step 27: There is a suitable location for the hutch.

Any place that is visible and protected by weathering elements will suffice.If you want to keep the hutch out of the sun, you should put it in an area that is well-ventilated and secure.A veranda is an example of a suitable location for a guinea pig hutch.The atmosphere and weather will be protected by this way.The pigs don't do well in humid conditions.guinea pigs are more prone to sickness due to the growth of mould in their hay and bedding.

Step 28: The inside of the house should be lined with bedding.

There is no need for bedding for the inside of the hutch that is placed directly on the grass.Line the bottom of the house with newspapers or puppy pads.The recommended bedding material is wood shavings topped with hay.When it gets cold, these will help insulate it.

Step 29: You need a water bottle.

You should be able to connect your water bottle to the wire bars.Make sure it's not too high or low.The water bottle should be kept a short distance from the pellets.If your water bottle leaks, place it outdoors to prevent it from soiling the bedding inside.

Step 30: A feeding station should be set up.

Two or more feeding dishes can be placed in a part of the cage where it is dry.The food can be ruined by sudden rainy showers, so keep the pellets away from the cage.

Step 31: There are a few hideouts throughout the house.

guinea pigs are scared of wild animals and are more likely to hide in an outdoor area.If you want to avoid conflict, you should have at least one neutral hideout.

Step 32: You should add your toys and cage accessories.

There are toys that will encourage play and enrichment.The hutch has too many toys.It's important that your guinea pigs have room to run about.The outside area is where most of their toys are kept.

Step 33: There is a hay rack on the side of the cage.

The hay rack can be between the wires.The hay rack should be in a dry place.Hay-racks are not a substitute for free-feeding hay.guinea pigs can get their heads and bodies stuck through metal hayracks.

Step 34: The ramp should be fully accessible.

The ramp should not be too steep.Check the ramp to make sure it has proper grip to prevent slips and falls.You may need to make some adjustments if your guinea pig is having a hard time going up and down the ramp.

Step 35: Put your C and C cage together.

Zip ties are used to secure the grids after snapping them in place.Attach the corners of your coroplast with tape.Make sure the opening of the grids is large enough for your pig to fit through.The opening should be less than 1.5.

Step 36: There is a suitable location for the C & C cage.

The pig is susceptible to noise, temperature, and isolation.The ideal temperature is between 65 and 75 degrees.The C & C cage should be placed in a temperature controlled room away from heat, air conditioning, drafts, and sunlight.guinea pigs have sensitive hearing, so it's important to avoid placing them next to loud objects, such as a stereo or television set.When they are easy to see and hear, guine pigs enjoy being near family.If other household pets can't reach the cage, a family room or living room is a good place to put it.The pigs don't do well in humid conditions.guinea pigs are more prone to sickness due to the growth of mould in their hay and bedding.

Step 37: The cage should be filled with bedding.

The base of the cage should be lined with newspaper or puppy pads.Fleece, CareFresh, and wood shavings are examples of bedding that can be used in a C & C cage.

Step 38: A water bottle is required.

The cube grids on the side of your C & C cage should be connected to your water bottle.Make sure it's not too high or low.The water bottle should be kept a short distance from the pellets.If your water bottle leaks, you can put a drip pad under it to absorb the liquid.

Step 39: A feeding station is needed.

The side of the cage is a good place to put two or more feeding dishes.

Step 40: There are hideouts in the C & C cage.

In a C & C cage with an open lid, guinea pigs are more likely to hide.If you want to avoid conflict, you should have at least one neutral hideout.

Step 41: You should add your toys and cage accessories.

A large C & C cage will benefit from some toys.The cage should not have too many toys.It's important that your guinea pigs have room to run about.

Step 42: There is an optional hay rack on the side of the C & C cage.

The hay rack can be pitched between the grids.guinea pigs like to play with hay.You should keep the hay rack away from the food and water bowls.Hay-racks are not a substitute for free-feeding hay.guinea pigs can get their heads and bodies stuck through metal hayracks.

Step 43: You need to assemble your coop.

Chickens are similar to rabbits but are slightly bigger.You can put them together the same way.If you have the instructions and all the parts, it's easy to assemble them.Some tools will be needed to help assemble the coop.

Step 44: The location is suitable.

Any place that is visible and protected by weathering elements will suffice.If you want to keep the coop out of the sun, you should put it in an area that is well-ventilated and secure.A veranda is an example of a suitable location for a coop.The atmosphere and weather will be protected by this way.The pigs don't do well in humid conditions.guinea pigs are more prone to sickness due to the growth of mould in their hay and bedding.

Step 45: Line the inside of the building.

The bedding for the inside area, including the boxes, will only need to be placed on grass.The main bedding should be lined with newspaper or puppy pads.The recommended bedding material is wood shavings topped with hay.When it gets cold, these will help insulate the coop.

Step 46: You need a water bottle.

The water bottle should be able to connect to the wire bars.Make sure it's not too high or low.The water bottle should be kept a short distance from the pellets.If your water bottle leaks, place it outdoors to prevent it from soiling the bedding inside.

Step 47: There are hideouts throughout the coop.

There are many wild animals that may scare the guinea pigs, so they are more likely to hide.If you want to avoid conflict, you should have at least one neutral hideout.

Step 48: You should add your toys and cage accessories.

A large fowl will benefit from some toys to encourage play.Don't overcrowding with too many toys.It's important that your guinea pigs have room to run about.The outside area is where most of their toys are kept.

Step 49: The ramp should be fully accessible.

The ramp should not be placed too steep and should have proper grips, such as soft sandpaper or juts in the structure.As the ramp is designed for chickens, you might need to make some adjustments if your guinea pig is having a hard time going up and down it.

Step 50: There is an optional hay rack.

The hay rack can be pitched between the wires.The hay rack should be in a dry place.Hay-racks are not a substitute for free-feeding hay.guinea pigs can get their heads and bodies stuck through metal hayracks.

Step 51: The ramp needs to be fully accessible.

The ramp should not be too steep.Check the ramp to make sure it has proper grip to prevent slips and falls.The ramp is designed for chickens, so if your guinea pig is having trouble going up and down the ramp, you may need to make some adjustments.

Step 52: The wire cage needs to be assembled.

Most wire cages are pre-made and are easy to assemble.Attach the sides of the cage with small clips.

Step 53: Place the wire cage outdoors.

The pig is susceptible to noise, temperature, and isolation.The ideal temperature is between 65 and 75 degrees.The wire cage should be placed in a temperature controlled room away from heat, air conditioning, drafts, and sunlight.guinea pigs have sensitive hearing, so it's important to avoid placing them next to loud objects, such as a stereo or television set.When they are easy to see and hear, guine pigs enjoy being near family.If other household pets cannot reach the wire cage, it is best to place it in a family room.The pigs don't do well in humid conditions.guinea pigs are more prone to sickness due to the growth of mould in their hay and bedding.

Step 54: The wire cage should be filled with bedding.

The base of the cage should be lined with newspaper or puppy pads.Fleece is a more suitable bedding option because wire cages don't have sides to hold loose material.

Step 55: You need a water bottle.

The metal bars on the side of your wire cage should be able to connect to your water bottle.Make sure it's not too high or low.The water bottle should be kept a short distance from the pellets.If your water bottle leaks, you can put a drip pad under it to absorb the liquid.

Step 56: A feeding station is needed.

The side of the cage is a good place to put two or more feeding dishes.

Step 57: There are hideouts throughout the wire cage.

In a wire cage that is open by all sides, guinea pigs are more likely to hide.If you want to avoid conflict, you should have at least one neutral hideout.

Step 58: You can add cage accessories.

A wire cage will benefit from some toys.The cage should not have too many toys.It's important that your guinea pigs have room to run about.

Step 59: Attach the hay rack to the wire cage.

There are metal bars between the hay rack and the cage.guinea pigs like to play with hay.You should keep the hay rack away from the food and water bowls.Hay-racks are not a substitute for free-feeding hay.guinea pigs can get their heads and bodies stuck through metal hayracks.

Step 60: You need to assemble your run.

It is easy to assemble runs if you have the instructions and all the parts.Tools are likely to be needed to help assemble the run.

Step 61: There is a suitable location for the run to be placed.

It's strongly advised to keep the run under an enclosed space outside of direct sunlight because it doesn't offer absolute protection from predators and harsh weather conditions.The area should be well-ventilated and secured from pets and other animals.The pigs don't do well in humid conditions.guinea pigs are more prone to sickness due to the growth of mould in their hay and bedding.

Step 62: The run should be lined with bedding.

Unless your run is sitting on grass, it will need to be lined with newspaper or puppy pads and then an absorbent bedding.

Step 63: A water bottle is required.

The wire bars of the run should be connected to your water bottle.Make sure it's not too high or low.The water bottle should be kept a short distance from the pellets.If your water bottle leaks, you can put a drip pad under it to absorb the liquid.

Step 64: A feeding station should be set up.

The side of the run is a good place to put two or more feeding dishes.

Step 65: There are hideouts throughout the run.

In an outdoor run where many wild animals may scare them, guinea pigs are more likely to hide.If you want to avoid conflict, you should have at least one neutral hideout.

Step 66: You should add your toys and cage accessories.

A large run will benefit from some toys.Don't overload the run with too many toys.It's important that your guinea pigs have room to run about.

Step 67: There is a hay rack on the side of the run.

The hay rack can be pitched between the wires.guinea pigs like to play with hay.You should keep the hay rack away from the food and water bowls.Hay-racks are not a substitute for free-feeding hay.guinea pigs can get their heads and bodies stuck through metal hayracks.

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