Guard systems can help keep your gutter clean.snap-on guards are popular among DIYers.They are easy to install, but not as durable as screw-fastened options.Since there are so many guard systems to choose from, it can be difficult to make a decision.You will be able to find the best product for your budget with a bit of patience.
Step 1: Before you install your product, read the instructions.
It is important to read your product's manual carefully.Incorrect installation of guards could cause your gutter to malfunction.You will void your warranty if you don't follow the instructions.
Step 2: Carefully lift the shingles with a knife.
Start at the end of the gutter run opposite the downspout and insert your knife between the shingles and the underlayment, which is the roof's waterproof barrier.The wooden structure of the roof should not be lifted.Carefully loosen about halfway up the first row of shingles.Don't damage the shingles when you lift them.If you accidentally crack a shingle, slide the guard section into place and apply roofing cement over the crack.
Step 3: The guard section is under the shingles.
Put the guard section under the shingles you lifted.Continue to slide in the gutter guard until you reach the end of the first guard section.There are 4 to 6 ft sections for most products.If you have trouble handling a section on your own, you can hire a helpers to hold one side of the guard steady while you work from the other side.
Step 4: Attach the front of the section to the gutter.
Check your installation guide for the exact process.The guard section should be aligned with the rim of the gutter.To get the guard into place, pinch the mechanism over the gutter's lip.Continue until you have snapped the rest of the guard section in place.There are a number of individual clipping mechanisms in some products.The mechanism runs along the outer edge.
Step 5: Unless directed otherwise, overlap the sections by 2 in.
To install the remaining guards, repeat the steps.If you are installing meshes or grates, it is recommended that you overlap the sections by 2 to 1 2 in.Follow your product's specific instructions if you check your installation guide.If you need to cover a corner, you can either butt- join most mesh or grate guards or line up 1 section parallel to another.For some systems, you will need to cut joints in guard sections that meet at corners.
Step 6: To connect hooded covers at corners, cut miter joints.
The hooded surface-tension guards have sections that meet at corners.Measure the angle in the end of the guard section with a protractor.Attach tin snips or a utility knife to mark the angle.The next step is to cut a 45 degree angle into the end of the guard section.The sections can now meet at a corner without the gutter being uncovered.Double check that you have aligned the sections correctly.Make sure the sides that slide into the roofline face are the ones that connect to the gutter face.
Step 7: Use a utility knife or tin snips to trim the end of the last guard section.
Measure the distance between the last guard section and the end of the gutter.If it is shorter than a full guard section, cut one to match the length.Your total gutter length is 150 ft (46 m), and your sections are 4 ft (1.2 m).You will need to cut a section to match the size after installing 37 full-sized sections.You will need a pair of tin shears to trim the gutter guard.Products made of plastic can be cut with a utility knife or box cutter.
Step 8: If necessary, install support brackets.
The surface-tension covers are secured with brackets.Attach the brackets to the guard system with 3 in self-tapping roofing screws.Check the installation guide for instructions on where to put the brackets.A small amount of roofing cement can be applied around the screws that secure the brackets to the roof.In top-quality gutter guard systems, brackets are more common.
Step 9: The guard needs to be moved under the shingles.
The first row of shingles needs to be loosened.The first guard section is beneath the shingles.Don't loosen the waterproof layer beneath the shingles.The guard section should be between the shingle layer and the underlayment.
Step 10: Attach the guard to the gutter lip with screws.
If your guard system didn't come with screws, use 2 in self-tapping sheet metal screws or go with the length specified in the installation guide.Drive the screws into the gutter with a power drill if you want to align the first section.Pre-drilling holes into the gutter's lip is unnecessary because self-tapping screws are designed to drill their own hole.
Step 11: The sections meet at corners.
2 adjoining sections that meet at a corner will need to be cut with a knife.Use a protractor to measure a 45 degree angle at the end of a section, then cut it with a utility knife or tin snips.The section that will join with the first will have a corresponding angle cut.Make sure you align the 2 sections correctly before cutting.When lined up with each other, the 45 degree slants in each section should meet flush so the 2 sections form a 90-degree corner or right angle.The outer and inner sides of each section should face the same direction.
Step 12: The screws should be sealed with roofing cement.
Put a small amount of roofing cement over the screw holes after installing a guard section.Don't put cement in openings if you're installing mesh guards.Water will flow into the gutter if the screws are sealed.
Step 13: Tin snips or a utility knife can be used to trim excess lengths of guard.
Continue installing sections until you reach the end of the gutter run.Measure the distance between the last full section and the end of the gutter.If necessary, use a pair of tin snips or a utility knife to cut a guard section to match the rest of the gutter.
Step 14: Measure your gutter height, width, and length.
Measure twice and cut once.You will know the size and amount of guard material you need.Knowing the total length will help you set your budget and compare prices.Purchase 10% more guard material than your gutter total length as insurance.
Step 15: It's an easy, affordable option to go with mesh guards.
The cost of grating and mesh is between $1 and $3 per foot.They are not as effective as surface-tension gutter covers.If you want an easier, less expensive product that doesn't make a big visual impact, they're the way to go.The cheapest option is mesh and grate guards made of plastic.Heavy-duty plastic products are more durable than metal products.Inexpensive coarse-mesh screens can be used to keep out large leaves and twigs.Since debris gets stuck in coarse-mesh screens, they are harder to clean.Needles, seeds, and other small debris can be mitigated with a fine-mesh guard.You may need to sweep or hose down the guards from time to time because large leaves and twigs can sometimes collect on top of fine-mesh products.
Step 16: If you want the most durable option, choose surface-tension hoods.
The surface-tension covers allow water to trickle inside and block debris from entering.They last longer, stand up better to the elements, and require less maintenance than screens and grates.The drawbacks are cost and complexity.They are expensive at $6 to $10 per foot.The cost per foot can go up to 15 to 20 if the models are professionally installed.The opening between the cover and the gutter may be too wide if the pitch is too steep.Most gutter covers are larger and more obvious than screens.If you don't want to hire a professional, consider surface-tension covers.They are cheaper and easier to carry up a ladder than metal covers.
Step 17: If convenience is your priority, purchase snap-on guards.
Both surface-tension covers and mesh screens are snap-on and screw-fastened.Regardless of the gutter guard system you choose, you will need to clean and remove the guards.If convenience is a priority and you don't have to worry about weather damage, go with a snap-on option.The screen guards are wedged into the gutter.They cost as little as $0.10 per foot, but are useless.They don't keep out debris with no fastenings.
Step 18: If you live in a windy area, look for screw-fastened guards.
Strong winds, heavy rain, falling branches and snow make snap-ons more vulnerable.Go for guards that are fastened to the gutter with screws.The screw-fastened products are more expensive than the snap-on versions.
Step 19: Don't use foam inserts or brushes.
The foam and brush strips that are inserted into the gutter are one of the designs on the market.Inexpensive and easy to use, these guards are not very effective and need to be cleaned out frequently.There are brush fibers that can get caught in leaves.The seeds can grow without regular maintenance.If it is absolutely necessary, avoid inserts and screens.You want to make sure your product does its job because you are investing time and money and going through the hassle of climbing up a ladder.