A hand-crafted wooden ring is a rustic yet regal accessory that only takes a few dollars to create.All you need to make your own wooden rings is a block of dense scrap wood, a drill press, and a Dremel tool.After marking and drilling a hole in your raw materials using one of your own rings as a guide, you will gradually sand the wood until it begins to take shape.Next, work out any remaining rough spots with one more light sanding.Finish by applying a coat of beeswax or a natural oil to protect the wood from damage and give it a smooth, polished luster.
Step 1: There is a choice of a strong, dense wood.
Picking out a type of wood that can hold up to intensive sawing, drilling, and sanding is important since the ring needs to be fairly thin.African Padauk, cocobolo, and Brazilian walnut are some of the rich species that are good choices for this type of project.The wood will be more resistant if the color is darker.During the shaping process, softer woods are more likely to break.There are local stores that specialize in home improvement and woodworking.If you are lucky, you may be able to find a piece of scrap wood for free.
Step 2: There is a 138” square on the block.
Take 138” from the end of the scrap wood and draw a line with a pencil.This line shows where you will be cutting the square blank for your ring.If the piece of scrap wood is larger than 138” it may be necessary to measure and mark both vertically and horizontally.
Step 3: There was a blank on the block.
You can cut along the line you drew with a bandsaw or circular saw.It is important to see the wood across the grain.If you don't do that, your ring may break before you finish.You will be left with a flat, slender square similar in appearance to a drink coaster.A "blank" is a square block of wood.You'll transform the blank into a ring by sanding and shaping it.If you don't have a power saw, you can use a handsaw, though it will take more time and labor due to the density of the wood.
Step 4: The blank is where the finger hole will go.
Take your pencil or felt-tipped marker and write a small, bold dot at the center of the wooden square.You will use the tip of the drill bit to carve out the ring's finger hole.You will have plenty of room for error because you will be removing a lot of excess material from the outer edges.
Step 5: The drill bit should be slightly narrower than your ring finger.
You can use a wood bore or spade bit with a flared tip to get the best results.For reference, compare the width of the bit with the diameter of your ring finger.It should be the same width as your finger.The tip of the drill bit is used to mark where the finger hole is.If you want to be certain that the ring will come out the right size, take one of your own rings and slide the bit inside.It should be able to fit.
Step 6: The blank should be secured in a vice or C-clamp.
Situate the wood widthwise so that the dot you made to mark the finger hole is facing upwards.You can concentrate on drilling if you hold the blank in place.If you don't have access to a vice or C-clamp, you can use a pair of pliers.You should not attempt to hold the blank by hand.
Step 7: Halfway through the blank, drill.
If you want to turn on the drill, position the tip of the bit over the dot.You don't want to drill all the way through just yet, so apply a modest amount of pressure.When you open a small hole with a shallow circle around it, stop drilling.If you drill through a piece of wood with a spade bit, it can splinter.
Step 8: Finish drilling the hole by turning the blank over.
If you want to flip the blank over, you have to secure it.The drill bit tip should be aligned with the hole.The drill should be guided from the opposite side until it bores the rest of the way through.By drilling halfway through the blank at a time, you can minimize the risk of chipping or breaking your materials.
Step 9: There is a finger hole.
If you want to buff the surface that will rest against your finger, you have to use a Dremel tool.You can use a piece of paper to touch it up.The inner face should be completely smooth, with no points or edges that could scratch you.If you want to get the most seamless texture, you should start with a medium-grit sandpaper and then use a high-gloss one for a few passes.Wait until you have sanded the ring thoroughly before testing it.Being impatient is a good way to get splinters.
Step 10: Draw a ring around the hole.
Take your pencil or marker and draw a circle larger than the inside edge of the ring.The ring's thickness will be determined by the two circles.As you will be sanding it into the proper shape later on, don't worry about making this circle too perfect.Try tracing with the aid of a scribing compass.It is not recommended that you go thinner than 2mm.
Step 11: Take out the corners of the blank.
A short line should be drawn across each corner to intersect with the outer circle.Attach the ring to your work surface and use a pull saw to cut off the corners.You can trim the corners with a band saw or table saw if you have a jig that can secure little pieces.The blank will be left with a rough octagonal shape.To avoid cutting into the body of the ring, measure, mark, and see the corners carefully.Wear safety goggles, make sure the ring is secure in the jig, and be careful cutting the corners of the blank.
Step 12: Put the ring into its final shape.
The blank should be held against the Dremel tool or belt sander.The band should turn out as even and symmetrical as possible by rotating the wood gradually.Use the circular outline as a guide while sanding down the blank.You can always sand off more if you need to, but you can't put it back on.Be patient and work carefully.It may take a little while for you to find a ring that you are happy with.
Step 13: Be careful with the edges of the ring.
Once you are satisfied with the basic shape of your ring, tilt it at a 30-45 degree angle and press it into the Dremel.Turn the ring over and smooth the other side after you have sanded down the entire circumference.Don't remove too much wood from the ring's edges.If you are concerned about damaging the ring after all the hard work you have put into it, you can do your sanding by hand.The ring is more comfortable to slide on and off because Beveling wears down the squared corners.
Step 14: To strengthen the wood, temper the ring.
A few quick passes with a heating gun can provide added durability and a more tailored fit.The nozzle of the gun should be 6 inches above the ring on the heat-safe surface.Slowly wave the gun back and forth until the wood begins to smoke.The wood's fibers will draw up when exposed to intense heat.
Step 15: To preserve the wood finish, apply a coat of oil or wax.
The ring should be rubbed over with a small amount of oil on a clean cloth.Before trying on your new ring, wipe off any excess oil or wax and give the finish a few minutes to dry.You will be able to wear it in almost any condition once it has been treated.Waxes and oils act as a natural buffer against dirt, and will keep your ring from cracking or splitting over time.Natural oils will coat the ring with enough wear if you can't find a fancy finish.