Yurts are round, tent-like structures used as mobile homes.Some general carpentry skills are required to build and set up a yurt.You can easily build a structure with a yurt kit.If you are comfortable with carpentry, make each piece of the structure yourself.You can use the research and equipment to create your very own yurt.
Step 1: It's a good idea to protect your yurt from the elements.
You should be aware of where you set up your yurt.The best spot will be protected from wind, get sun in the morning, and be free of overhead objects.You can keep your structure safe and secure by doing this.Overhead items include dead tree limbs.
Step 2: You can use a platform that is the same diameter as your yurt.
The overall diameter of the structure affects the size of your platform.Before you start, make sure to review your particular instructions and adjust the process as necessary.Your platform may not be waterproof if it is not the same size and shape.The side cover fabric should be extended below the interior floor level for a draft-free seal.
Step 3: Hire a professional to build your platform.
The platform is the most complex part of a yurt.Hire a professional contractor to make your base if you're not familiar with carpentry work.This is the easiest way to make sure your yurt is built correctly.If you want to build your own platform, review the instructions from the manufacturer.Many companies give instructions on how to build your own base.The instructions will vary based on your kit.
Step 4: The footings should be placed in a circular shape.
The base of your platform can be made from 10 or so concrete footings.The footings should be 2–4 ft apart in a 12 ft circular shape depending on your framing plan.Precast concrete footings can be used.
Step 5: Attach the beams to the footings by cutting them.
You can cut your wooden beams with a table saw.Place the beams across the footings and use a level to make sure they are straight.Attach the beams to the footings using the holders on the wooden beams.Ask your professional carpenter for assistance.Your instructions will affect your beam placement.
Step 6: Attach the flooring to the wooden beams with your drill.
1.125 in (2.86 cm) thick plywood can be used to create your flooring.Put the boards over the beams so they are parallel and secure them with a drill and a screw.Attach a screw through the plywood and beam.Depending on your instructions, the size and width of your flooring can be different.
Step 7: The flooring should be cut into a circle to match the diameter of the yurt.
Cut off any piece of plywood that hangs over your beams using a hand saw.The circular shape of your yurt is maintained by this.Make sure the beams and flooring are clean.It is okay if the sides are not completely even.Try to cut the wood in a straight line.
Step 8: The caulking around the outside edge is waterproof.
The flooring is sealed by this.It's important to seal the edge and the flooring of the yurt to prevent water from getting inside.To do this, run caulking around the perimeter of the flooring.The rain or condensation won't get into your yurt if your wood is secured together.
Step 9: Attach a strip of plywood around the perimeter.
Cut 8 ft (0.11 m) exterior plywood into strips.Attach the strips of wood using a drill and large wood screws.Attach a screw to each end of the strip.You want 1 ft of plywood to extend above the floor level when you do this.You can use a table saw to cut your strips.
Step 10: Don'twrap your lattice wall, grab a helpers to start.
The lattice wall can be found in a cylindrical package about 2 ft in diameter and 8 ft long.The lattice wall needs to be removed in order to move it to the back of the platform.
Step 11: You need to stretch the wall around your platform.
Remove the straps from the lattice wall.The inside of the wall should face toward your platform.Just inside the edge, stretch out the lattice around the perimeter.Hold the lattice wall securely as you do this.The inside of the lattice has no holes, while the outside has holes.If you keep your fingers out of the way, they can get pinched as you unfold the lattice.The circular shape of your structure is created by this.
Step 12: You can leave a 4 ft gap to install your door frame.
You can place your door wherever you want, but you have to have enough space to position the door at your opening.The wingnuts and washers have to be removed from the door frame to install it.Pull the washers and wingnuts into place.The key side of the door should face out.If you have trouble installing the door, consult your instructions.It should be easy.There is a notch behind the door frame.The door threshold needs to be outside of the edge.
Step 13: To make sure the wall height is consistent, check the perimeter of the yurt.
To check the height of your structure, use a tape measure.The lattice wall needs to be adjusted as needed.Your height is dependent on your overall size.
Step 14: The lattice wall should be secured with the included hardware.
You can attach the lattice wall to the door once it's properly placed.The cap nuts, washers, and bolts are located at the bottom of the lattice.Attach the lattice wall anchoring straps with the included screws.Attach a screw to the hole with the anchor.Use your drill to secure the screw.The crotch of the lattice is where 2 pieces of wood intersect.The screws go through the edge of the brackets.There are screws and anchors in your kit.
Step 15: The belly bands need to be secured to the door frames.
Make any final adjustments after the door frame and lattice walls are attached.The belly band should be on the top of the lattice wall.Feed the band through the crotch of the lattice by tying the belly band to the hook in the top door frame.Take the slack out of the line.When you reach the other side, tie the belly band to the door frame hook.nylon or other stretchy straps are used for belly bands.They are usually 50 feet long.Tension cables may be used instead of belly bands.They often hook onto the door.The shape of the yurt needs to be adjusted after everything is fastened.
Step 16: Before you start working on the rafters, make sure you wear a hard hat.
The rafters can fall on your head if you Treat the interior of the yurt as a hard-hat zone until the rafters are installed.You can take off your hard hat after the rafters are installed.While raising the center ring and installing the rafters is an exciting part of the assembly, it should be done with care.Children who are not involved in assembly should not be in the yurt.
Step 17: Take the center ring and mark the holes for the rafters.
The nutted center ring can be easily installed by keeping the bolt heads down.Use a marker to locate 3-4 evenly-spaced holes around the circle.The size of your center ring will affect the distance between each spot.The rafters will rest on the cable based on your instructions.Take a look at your rafter spacing diagram to see if you need help with this step.Your marks are where you put the rafters to raise the center ring.
Step 18: Attach the rafters to the ring
The rafter should be aligned at one of the spots on the center ring.Attach the rafter to the ring with the help of your hands.You should repeat the procedure for your second rafter.Lift the ring off of the ground to attach the third rafter.The first 2 rafters should support one side when you lift up the center ring.The third rafter's pin should be inserted into the marked hole.The center ring should be lifted using the third rafter.The rafter should be placed on the cable with the first 2 rafters on it.The center ring has a metal pin on the side of the rafter.Follow the marked holes and cable spaces when attaching your rafters.A friend and another rafter can push the ring up.It may be difficult until you have some rafters in place.
Step 19: The top of the yurt is where the rafters should be put.
If you want to hook the rafter to the cable, you have to push the lattice wall slightly outward with your shoulder and put the end with the pin in completely.The rafters over the doors help hold the belly band or tension cables in place.To balance the weight and placement, keep your rafter pattern symmetrical.There are lattice wall crotches in between the rafters.The rafter slides into place if you angle it correctly.The rafter should not be forced into the ring.Stand outside the structure, put the rafter over the lattice walls, and push the end into one of the slots along the roof ring.The person holding the center support can let go if the rafters are secured.Depending on your instructions, the number of rafters you need depends.
Step 20: There is a pre-drilled hole just below the belly band.
Attach the included screws to the underside of the rafter with a drill.You can find the pre-drilled hole by looking at the bottom of the rafter.Do not use long screws.The screw is the correct size for the hole.
Step 21: The rafters should be secured to the door frame with brackets.
Each rafter has a small notch to hold the tension cable against the door.The rafter should be on the top of the door.There is a flat side on top of the door.If you slide it forward, it will flush with the tension cable.Attach the brackets to the rafters with screws and a power drill.Make sure the door is straight before attaching the headers.
Step 22: To hold them in the ring, install a safety cable on the rafters.
To thread the cable through the holes in the rafters, you have to remove the safety cable.Pull the end of the cable through the loop on the opposite end when you reach the starting point.The cable clamps need to be tightened so they are secure.You can use a cable cutter to cut off extra cable.
Step 23: If it's included in your kit, you should install your roof insulation and liner facing.
Not all yurts need insulation or lining, but they do conserve heat and protect you from the elements.Once the rafters are all in place, install your insulation on a day that is not very windy.You can spread the liner over the rafters by using a step ladder.A friend should pull the hemmed end around the rafter ends.Put the insulation on top of the liner.While your friend secures the perimeter, you can secure the upper area.The lining and insulation can be secured with a staple gun.Attach the seam to the insulation with foil tape.If you want the insulation around the door frame to not get in the way, trim it.
Step 24: Take out the cover and put a step ladder in the middle.
Get rid of the binding straps by removing the cover from the bag.The bag that holds your yurt's cover is usually made of the same material.The straps need to be untied around the cover.If you want to unroll the cover, place your step ladder inside your yurt.
Step 25: Roll the covering towards the door frame.
Bring the top of the covering through the center ring opening.You can let the covering go until it reaches your door once it is through the opening.
Step 26: Wrap the perimeter by unfolding your covering 3-7 times.
A friend should work around the perimeter as you stand on the step ladder.If you want to cover a bit in each direction, unfold the covering 3-4 times.There is a cut-out opening for the door in the top cover.The cut-out doesn't have the same number of round grommets.You can easily install the rest of the covering if the cut-out is centered over the door.
Step 27: Attach half of the covering with a pair of pliers.
To unfold the rest of the covering, you have to work with a friend.If you want to secure the top cover at the door, you have to install a twist-lock or S-clip.The door detail is aligned by securing the cover near the door.
Step 28: The top layer of the cover has to be pulled over the center ring and down the other side.
You need to tie a cord to the top cover.The rest of the fabric should be pulled over the center ring and around the perimeter using the cord.Pull the outside edge around so it is snug around the rafters.The top cover needs to be centered on the center ring and pulled down evenly.Your covering will be crooked if you don't.The cover doesn't have to be fastened to the center ring.
Step 29: The door needs to be marked to make sure the locations are secure.
To make sure everything fits, inspect the door frame after the covering is in place.Use a marker to point out the locations.The pilot holes need to be drilled with the provided bits.You may break the twist-lock if you don't drill pilot holes.The twist-lock can be broken if you overtighten it.Before your roof is put up, consult your instructions for any final touches.