Before it can be used in construction, crafts, carvings, and even in a stove or fireplace, it must be cured.During the curing process, the green wood'sMoisture content is reduced.Air-drying lumber is the most cost-effective and practical method of curing wood.
Step 1: The wood is being processed.
Logs should be processed as soon as possible to prevent the ends from drying and the wood from rotting.It is possible to saw your logs into lumber that is between 34 inch to 2 inches in thickness.Make an effort to achieve uniform length and thickness if you are processing the wood yourself.If you can't see your own logs, a sawmill can do the job for you.It is possible to cut your wood slightly larger to account for shrinkage.
Step 2: The ends of the lumber have to be sealed.
The ends of lumber cure quicker than the rest of the wood.It is best to seal the ends of your wood after sawing it.You can coat each end of the wood with a variety of products.It's a good idea to build a thick layer of the Sealer of your choice.
Step 3: It's time to determine its cure time.
The curing time is determined by a formula.Allow 1 year of drying time per inch.The formula only gives a rough estimate.The weather and the location of the woodpile are variables that are not accounted for.It would take 1 year to cure a piece of wood that is 1 inch thick.
Step 4: An ideal location for curing.
The lumber is exposed to the elements to cure when you air-dry it.Search for an outdoor location that isn't surrounded by buildings or foliage that blocks the wind.Water can gather below the lumber if the location has a slight slope.Foliage will expose the bottom layer of lumber to the elements.The lumber cures faster on asphalt or concrete.
Step 5: The foundation of the stack needs to be prepared
In order to cure properly, lumber must be stacked in a specific way.To create a secure base for your lumber, lay out two rows of concrete blocks.The rows should be the same length.The columns should be at least 1 12 to 3 feet apart.The concrete blocks should be covered with a 4x4 piece of wood.
Step 6: Put the wood and stickers in a pile.
To allow air to flow freely through the pile of lumber, stickers, 12 inch to 1 inch strips of wood, are inserted between each layer.The wood should be placed on top of the bolsters.The lumber in the pile should be the same length.Place a sticker on each end.Every 18 to 24 inches (45.7 to 61.0 cm) down the length of the lumber, place additional stickers.When all of the lumber is in the pile, repeat the process, stacking the successive layers of lumber and stickers in exactly the same locations as the previous layer.
Step 7: A weighted roof is created.
The lumber is protected from rain and snow by a weighted roof.If you want to make the weighted roof, you have to get timbers that are 6 to 8 inches longer than the width of your pile.The timber should be placed across each end of the pile.The timbers should be placed evenly down the pile.You should get a sheet of metal that is 3 to 4 inches longer than the pile on each side.The timbers should be placed on top of the metal sheet.To keep the roof in place, place cement blocks on top of the metal sheet.The cement blocks should be placed in line with the stickers.
Step 8: It is a good idea to evaluate the wood's content frequently.
The drying rate affects the quality of cured lumber.If you want your wood to cure at an appropriate rate, you need to keep an eye on the lumber's moisture content over the course of a few days.An electronic meter can be used to evaluate the humidity.You can use your readings to determine theMoisture content of your lumber.The final content of air-dried wood varies from 20% to 30%.
Step 9: Look for drying defects.
The makeup of the lumber is altered when wood cures too quickly or too slowly.If your lumber is drying too quickly, you may notice that there are cracks in the fibers.You may notice stains or areas of decay if your lumber is drying too slowly.
Step 10: Make sure to make any necessary changes.
The structure of your wood pile should be changed if the curing rate is not right.To reduce checking, try the following: widen or double up your stacks, reduce the space between the pieces of lumber, use thinner stickers, or cover the pile with a shade cloth.To reduce warping, align the stickers directly on top of each other, use uniform stickers, make sure each layer of lumber contains pieces of wood that are relatively the same thickness, or place a roof over the pile.Reducing the width of the pile, increasing the space between piles, or clearing the air of items that obstruct air flow are some ways to reduce staining and decay.
Step 11: It's a good idea to cure your lumber with fans.
You can stack your wood in a shed instead of exposing it to the elements.The shed needs to be open to the elements on one side and have fans on the other side.The fans force air through the wood.
Step 12: If you want to dry your lumber, consider force air-drying.
A ventilated dry kiln can be constructed if you have the funds.There are fans that can move and recycle hot air in an enclosed building.If you put your stickered lumber inside the building, you will have to dry it.
Step 13: A kiln is a good place to dry your wood.
Green wood can be cured by many sawmills for a price.The cost is usually offset by the speed with which the job is completed.Most mills use kilns that are controlled by computers.The ideal heat setting can be determined by the type of wood involved, the amount of cured wood, and the humidity.