It's easy to test a fuel sender unit.

Is your gauge accurate?Is it not working anymore?It's easy to fix this problem on older boats.The first thing to do is determine if the problem is with the gauge or the sending unit.The test is simple.If the gauge is receiving 12 volts of power, it's time to check it.The gauge should be marked with a "+" or "I" if there is no voltage in the engine.If the sender, the gauge or its wiring is the culprit, you need to move on to the next step.

The sending wire will be marked with an "S" at the back of the gauge when power is on.The gauge should jump to its highest possible reading once the wire is disconnected.The gauge is good if this is the case.The gauge must be replaced if it does not reach its maximum reading.

Another test is to jump a wire or a screwdriver across the ground pin on the back of the gauge.Jump the sending pin to the engine block if there is no ground pin.The gauge should go to its lowest reading when you do this.It is working well if it does.

If the gauge is good, the next step is to check the other system components, as either the wire running to the sender or sender itself must be faulty.The sender and the "S" pin on the back of the gauge are necessary to check the wire.Check the resistance of the wire with your multimeter.The circuit is good if there is no resistance at all.Replacing the sender and gauge is a must if you want to be sure you are getting accurate readings.Pre-packaged installation kits are provided by several companies.

Most sensors have a mechanical floating arm.The resistance in the circuit to the gauge is near zero when the arm is all the way down.Resistance in the circuit increases as the arm rises.The needle on the gauge is moved by this resistance.

The sending unit's floating arm can become inoperative.The floats may be made of cork.The floats can lose their strength over time and cause the fuel gauge to indicate that the tank is empty.

A common problem is when the rheostat doesn't transmit the correct electrical current to the fuel gauge, even though the floating arm is moving up and down properly.The sender and gauge need to be replaced.

The sending unit has been installed.The sending wire leads off the center post.The marks I made to align the screw holes and float arm were in pencil.The engine's ignition switch has a wire marked "+".The sending wire is on the ground.

If you have a new fuel sender kit, you should follow the directions.Installation involves the following steps.senders aren't usually "plug and play" units.To fit your fuel tank, the length of the sender arm may have to be changed.This makes sure that the gauge reads right.

Measure tank depth from the top of the tank to the bottom.The length of the sending unit's float arm is determined by this measurement.Match the sending unit arm to the tank depth by trimming it.A strong pair of wire cutter will work with most units.Attach the new sending unit to the top of the tank with set screws once you have cut the float arm.

The sending wire will come off a post.There could be a ground wire coming off the second post.The fuel gauge has wires that lead to it.Before you cut the wires, turn off the power to the boat.The sending wire and ground wire should be disconnected from the old unit.There may be no ground wire if the gauge is grounded directly to the tank.The sending unit needs to be removed from the tank.

The old gauge has wires on it.Three wires go to the tank sending unit, one goes to ground, and the third connects to a 12-volt source.The fuel gauge needs to be removed.

Lower the float and float arm into the tank to install the new sender.If you want to align the gasket with the holes in the sender and the tank, you have to put a new gasket under the flange.If you are centering the screw holes to match the tank holes, mark the gasket in relation to the flange.The screw holes in the tank should be marked to make it easier to locate.Check to make sure the float arm can move without being stuck in a corner of the tank or against a wall.

The float arm's movement is not hindered if the sender unit is Oriented.You can check this by holding the sender next to the tank to see which way the float can move.You should duplicate the orientation when you put the unit in the tank.Once the screw holes are aligned, use a marker to show the direction of travel of the float arm.Attach the new screws to the old ones.

Check the wiring diagram that comes with the kit and mark the back of the fuel gauge with symbols for the sender, ground, and I.Turn on the power when you connect the wiring and install the new gauge.The correct fuel level should be shown on the fuel gauge.To make sure the readings are accurate.

Incorrect ground and insufficient power are some of the problems.If the gauge doesn't read at all, check the power with a multimeter.The fuel gauge has a positive terminal and a good ground.The ignition circuit should be checked if it isn't.Turn off the engine if that reads 12 volts.If you want to check continuity between the ground terminal on the gauge and ground, you should use the Ohm scale on your multimeter.Recheck the ground circuit if not.

Your new fuel gauge will give you a reading when everything is working correctly.Even if there is no wind, you will know if you have enough fuel to carry you home.

The people in the Bahamas are carrying less cash when you visit.That is a good thing.They don't have money, but they are using a new type of digital currency called "Sand Dollars."

The increase in size has been one of the most noticeable developments in the boatbuilding industry.Time was a big boat.Not anymore, with production boatbuilders like Dufour and Jeanneau regularly launching designs.

We did it despite the fact that they said it couldn't be done.Light winds allowed us to sail the Great Dismal Swamp Canal.Everyone else does the same thing.I have transited the canal twice under power and can tell you from personal experience that none of them were bad.