It's possible that the guitar is too difficult to play.It will be more difficult for you to fret the strings if you have a large distance between them.Lowering the action on an acoustic guitar is a three part process.You need to set up the saddle and lower the nut.
Step 1: The straightness of the guitar neck should be checked.
If you want to know if you need to adjust your rod to lower the action, you have to take a close look at the neck of your guitar.When you hold the guitar in front of you, the backbowed neck is going to bend slightly.If you want to check the straightness of the neck, lay it flat on a table or bench and look at it at eye level.There is another way to check the straightness of your guitar neck.The string should be pressed down at the first and 14th frets.Put a ruler next to the string you're pressing down.There should be about 0.25 millimeter between the string and the fret.
Step 2: The guitar's truss rod needs to be located.
There is a steel rod inside the neck of your guitar.The adjusting nut can be found at the peghead or through the sound hole.A two-way rod is also known as a single-action rod.A one-way rod is the only way to correct a backbowed guitar neck.There is no way to adjust a backbowed neck with a one-way rod.Since the 1980s, a two-way truss rod has become standard for newer guitars.
Step 3: Put your strings in a certain position.
If your truss rod is only accessible through the sound hole, you'll want to loosen your strings before attempting to adjust it.It's easier to get a tool into the sound hole with this.Don't completely remove your strings.To find out what kind of tool you're going to need, check the truss rod.It can either have a nut or a key slot.If your rod is only accessible through the sound hole, you'll want a longer allen wrench or nut driver to make sure you don't stick your whole hand in the hole.You don't need to worry about the sound hole if your rod is accessible from the headstock.The screws holding the cover in place need to be removed.If you want to see the extent to which you're adjusting it, you need to have your strings adjusted to pitch so you have appropriate tension on the neck.
Step 4: Turn the screw.
Slowly and gradually turn the truss rod screw with your allen wrench or nut driver.If you have an older guitar or the truss rod has never been turned, you may need to lubricate the nut.Remember "tighty, lefty-loosey."The upbow can be straightened by turning the rod screw to the right or left.If you put a mark on the nut, you can see where it was when you started.The screw shouldn't be turned more than 1/6 of a turn at a time.You won't be able to adjust too much.
Step 5: It's time to tune your guitar.
After you've made your first turn, you need to re tune your guitar so that you can see the distance between the strings and the frets.You can't just look at it with loose strings.The neck needs to have correct tension for you to be able to tell whether you've straightened it or not.
Step 6: It's necessary to repeat.
If the first turn didn't correct the upbow or backbow in your guitar's neck, you need to check again.Take note of the mark you made.Major damage to your guitar can be caused by turning the screw more than one complete rotation.
Step 7: Basic tools are gathered.
If you want to lower the action on an acoustic guitar by filing the notch on the nut, you'll need a set of nut files that correspond to the gauge of your string.You need a set of six nut files for each string.If you don't have a set of nut files, you can usually find them at a luthier supply shop.You will need a feeler gauge to measure the action at each fret.
Step 8: Make sure your guitar is working.
If it isn't already, you need to make sure all six strings of your guitar are in tip top shape.
Step 9: Measure the action at the first fret with a gauge.
Place your feeler gauge on top of the first fret to determine how much nut needs to be filed down to lower the action.Measure with a ruler.It should be about 7.5 millimeter from the string to the first fret.If it's greater than that, use larger gauge to check the distance until the string moves because the gauge is too big to fit.The thickness of the largest feeler gauge does not cause the string to move.This is done with each of the strings.
Step 10: The sixth string needs to be loosened.
Carefully loosen the string and pop it out of the nut.You can thread it along the side of the nut if you loosen it just enough.
Step 11: Attach the nut with the appropriate file.
If you want to protect the headstock, get a piece of plastic or masonite and find the nut file that corresponds to the sixth string.Place your nut file in the notch and file at the same angle.Only file a small amount at a time, as you cannot replace material once you've filed it down and you don't want to file it too much.If you have corrected your problem, replace the string, tune it, and measure it again to see if you need to refile.
Step 12: Each string should be repeated with the other ones.
To lower the action on your guitar at the nut, you'll want to repeat the process with each of the other five strings.
Step 13: Look at your bridge and saddle.
The saddle is a long, skinny nut that is inlayed at the bridge.You don't have to adjust the bridge in any way to lower the action on an acoustic guitar.The saddle is used to control the height of the guitar strings.You must lower the action at the bridge if you want your tone to be off.The strings on the bridge hold the saddle in place.It is not in place.Straight or compensated saddles are possible.A curved saddle helps keep the guitar in tune and compensates for the tone of the strings.If you want to lower the action at the bridge, you should always sand down the bottom of the saddle.
Step 14: You can measure your guitar's action at the bridge.
Measure the distance between the sixth string and the 12th fret with a ruler.The first string should be measured at the 12th fret.You don't have to measure the other strings.The action for the first string and the sixth string are the most important parts of an acoustic guitar.You'll want to lower your action if it's more than that.
Step 15: Relax your strings.
If you don't loosen the strings of your guitar first, you will not be able to remove the saddle.You should be able to leave them on the tuners.De tune your guitar until the strings are loose and floppy.Don't remove your strings from the TV.
Step 16: The lower three strings are removed.
There's no reason to remove all of your strings if you want to get the saddle out.This will make the process take longer.If the other three strings are really loose and floppy, you won't be able to slide the saddle out.Unless the strings go through the bridge, you don't need to remove your strings.The process of getting the saddle out will take a little longer if you have a string-thru bridge.
Step 17: The bridge has a saddle on it.
You should be able to slide the saddle out of its slot on the bridge once you've removed the lowest three strings.Carefully do this.You may need a pair of pliers to pull it out if it's wedged tightly.
Step 18: You have a saddle.
You're ready to lower your action once the saddle is out of the bridge.Even if you sand it, keep in mind that an even saddle will ruin the tone of your guitar.A piece of double-stick sand paper can be placed on a level table or work bench.Determine how much you want to sand down your saddle by using the ruler you used before.Use a pencil to mark your saddle.You just have to sand until you get to the pencil line.If you sand your saddle down too low, your strings will be too long.You don't want to take more than you need.Only sand down a little at a time.If you sand too much, you won't be able to put it back.
Step 19: The bridge and saddle should be replaced
Carefully slide the sanded saddle back into its slot after lifting your strings.Re tune your guitar by replacing the three strings that were removed.Measure the action again and play your guitar to see if you like it.You may want to do it again.Keep in mind that industry standards are just that, but each guitarist has their own preference for how much action they like.