MARINCO RV Receptacle Tester - 50A-RRT-50 - The Home Depot50-amp tester.
If you plugged into a 50 Amp outlet with open neutral, it would save you a lot of money.If it keeps you from plugging into an outlet with reverse polarity, it could save your life.
It's much easier to make 5 different checks with aluke meter and probes than it was before.
It can be used to check both male and female outlets.If you add a male and female to it, it will check both of them.
I don't work for them or have any financial interest in the company, but I like the idea of those not interested in exercising their digital VOM's before plugging in or taking a chance on doing damage to the coach electrical system.
It's a good investment for people who don't understand electricity and open grounds.
I bought the power pal online.Since I learned the hard way, I've been looking for something like this.We were at a nice RV park and hooked everything up.When the AC came on the wife said she smelled something burning and I heard "pow, pow."The energy management circuit board was burned out when I blew the Capacitor on the AC.It all happened in a matter of seconds.The mechanic said I was lucky that the coach didn't catch on fire.I check the outlets before I plug in.
Like.I'm ordering in am.I will if it goes public, but I don't have stock.!
I placed my order.This will allow us to leave more time for happy hour.
The surge guard is in my possession.Plug in the surge guard by itself and check the lights on it.Plug in to the surge guard if you want to protect against surge and spikes.You can always check if there is a problem by looking at the red light.
I have a built in surge guard and portable for post, but sometimes the post and outlet was too close to the ground, and I couldn't use the portable guard.The portable is large and heavy and you have to wait for it.
I made my own testers.I used them a lot at our rally.I have two for 30 and 50 Amp.I can check L1, Neutral and Ground on the 30 Amp.I can check L1, L2, neutral and ground on the 50 Amp.Both will check the grounds.
I didn't have a place to plug in at the Redmond,OR event where the outlets were on the ground.One of the outlets was bad and I reported it and got it fixed.Even though the unit was laying on the ground Jim that looks like a good unit also but I decided to stay portable and don't regret it.I like the continue protection more than the meter device.
Jim is showing a wired protector that he purchased.I had a bad experience at Dakota Ridge RV Park.The wired version can't get legs and be stolen.It has served me well so far.
A portable PI 50amp protector is what I use.I decided that I was going to change coaches within the next year, so went portable.It works very well.It could grow legs, but so far no problems.
I used the portable at Redmond.My coach lived in a RV park in Portland while I did a cruise to Alaska.The box was off the grass.I had the same problem in Utah and Colorado.And Galax, Virginia!I don't know if the Power Pal will fit any better.I will let you know.
Jack, you can use one of these to slow it down, but not fool proof.A screwdriver can be used to make legs.You would be left with raw wires on the ground if you removed the coach end of the cord with a power screwdriver.It's not pretty.
Jack, you can use one of these to slow it down, but not fool proof.A screwdriver can be used to make legs.You would be left with raw wires on the ground if you removed the coach end of the cord with a power screwdriver.It's not pretty.
They would need to break the lock on the bay door to get to the EMS.They would need to remove the EMS from the wall, the cover, and the wires, as well as the 4 screws that hold it.Is it possible?You don't bet in "seconds".
Jim, if you had more of a mess on your hands, I'm not trying to scare anyone or shake anything up.Still will be out in less than a minute.If valuables can get legs, let's focus on protection of our electrical coaches system and electronics.
Many of the power boxes I have dealt with don't have enough room for the entire box to fit into.Since the plug is attached directly to the back, you need width and depth and height clearance.It appears to be a good idea.The Surge Guard saved me from wired posts twice.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/50A-Hardwire-Surge-Guard/69523
If it shuts you down, you need a remote monitor to read out the fault.The portable is built on the unit.I wonder why??
I was thinking the same thing.50/30, 50/50, 30/15 are some of the adaptors I carry.I found a 14 inch cable at my local Wallmart and it was a novel idea.After plugging into power pal, the space problem was solved.
I use a 30 Amp portable Surge Guard and have had some issues with it laying on the ground, but I figured out a way to prevent it from walking.I secured the heavy wire with a chain and a lock that fit over it.If other portable surge guards are not secured to the pedestal, someone would think twice about removing it.
The Surge Guard has saved my electrical system several times.
There is a bicycle cable lock that works very well and regular bolt cutter won't cut the cable.
I have an electrical bay.Before there is any power to the coach, it takes about 2 minutes to go through the checks system.The person I bought the coach from told me that the surge protector will give fault indicators on the panel face and that it's not necessary.Since I am not an electrical wizard, is this correct?
If the surge protector has all the proper checks, I would agree with the previous owner.
Those who don't have the test ability would be able to use the device.They have their own means for testing.Personally.
I use a multimeter but have used other devices for over 50 years and am comfortable with my method.