Steel framing has many advantages over wood.Steel studs are straight and don't shrink, split, or rot.They are easy to store.How to build with steel studs is explained in this article.
Step 1: Purchase the right tools or rent them.
Special tools are required to work with steel studs.The best equipment for this can be found at local construction rental stores.You'll need a metal cut-off saw, a hammer drill and a chalk box.
Step 2: Determine the number of steel studs needed.
You should allow for 1 stud per every 12 inches of wall space.Measure the linear feet of the wall and double it with the help of steel plates.There should be an additional stud on each side of the window or door.
Step 3: The track will be fastened to the floor using a chalk box.
To figure out where your track will go, use a chalk line across the floor.
Step 4: The lower lengths of track should be screwed to the floor.
You can position your lower track by using the chalk line and then screw it in by drilling a hole into the stud and fastening with a screw.The power nailer or hammer drill can be used to drill through concrete.When laying track, negotiate corners and straight lines.The first track should be flattened so that the overlap track can slide right into place.On longer, straight runs, overlap the adjoining tracks at least 6 inches and secure the overlap to the floor with a concrete screw.
Step 5: The top track is the place to plumb.
To make sure that the upper and lower track are plumb, you can use either a laser level, a plumb bob, or two water levels.This is the plumb point on the upper wall.The use of a laser level is recommended by most contractors.A plumb bob is similar to a laser level.Attach the string to the top of the wall and let the bob rest at the plumb line on the floor.If you don't have a plumb bob or a laser level, you can use two water levels pressed together.Make sure that both levels are plumb by extending the ceiling and floor.Remove your plump line from the floor or ceiling.
Step 6: Attach the track to the upper ceiling after plumb is established.
Just as you attached the ground track, use a drill and screw gun to attach the track.Attach the track to the ceiling joists with self-tapping screws.If your track runs parallel to the ceiling, secure it with grabber screws and glue.
Step 7: Cut both sides of the steel stud.
Straight-cut aviation snips are used for this.Cut across the stud's web if you want to clear the jaws.Cut all the studs to length from the same end for easier electrical and plumbing installations later on.Gloves are a good way to protect your hands.A metal cutting blade is needed to cut multiple pieces at once.If you want to make cutting the studs easier, first you have to score the stud with a utility knife on both sides, and then bend it back and forth until it breaks apart.
Step 8: C-clamp locking pliers should be used to join the two members.
Drive a 1/2 inch.There are 8 pan-head screws in the middle.Medium speed is what this should be done at.Choose a clutch setting that is strong enough to drive the screw home, but not so strong that it weakens the joint.
Step 9: Cut the track 2 inches (5 cm) longer than the opening width to make a metal head.
The track should be cut on both ends.Use sheet metal locking pliers to bend the web.
Step 10: Plastic ties are screwed to the stud to hold the electrical cable.
To keep the cable from rubbing against the sharp edges, pop a plastic bushing into each knockout.
Step 11: Wood blocking is needed for doors, windows and cabinets.
If your steel stud wall seems flimsy, keep in mind that it gains full rigidity once applied.
Step 12: Hang the wall using one-fourth of an inch.
.They should be spread across the edges every 8 inches (20.3 cm) and on the centers every 12 inches (30.5 cm).Use a fine thread instead of a coarse one.You can check your local codes.It's better to have too many screws than to add more after the inspector comes.
Step 13: It was finished.
The metal stud won't rot or be susceptible to fire.You can learn how to hang the wall board.