The final product is well worth it even though painting it in a smooth, clean way can take a bit of effort.It is best to repair any cracks in the wall.Sand and clean the wall.Allow the primer to dry before applying a coat.Roll and brush the paint.Sand in between coats gives a better finish.Enjoy the view of your refreshed wallboard.
Step 1: If you want to find flaws, hold a light over the surface.
Hold a utility light 3 to 4 inches away from the wall if you want to dim the overhead room lights.Use the light to look for flaws on the wall.If you see cracks, holes, or dents, circle them with a pencil or painter's tape.To see the wall from different angles, make sure the light rotates around a bit.If there are any damaged spots, this will show them.
Step 2: Re-tape any exposed edges.
Sand over the entire seam if you see a spot where the tape is peeling up.Continue until you reach the base.Put a new piece of mesh over the sanded line.Attach a thin layer of joint compound to the tape.After 24 hours of drying, sand it down and repeat until the seam is smooth.It needs to be more than just sand over the seam.To keep it from cracking, sand it down on both sides.
Step 3: Place compound in any holes.
If the hole is small, you can plug it with compound.Then, use a knife to smooth the surface.If the hole is larger, you will need a patch for it.Press the patch firmly over the hole.If you coat it with compound, sand it down with sand paper.
Step 4: Go down any rough spots.
It is possible that the work light could expose some random bumpy spots on your drywall.Go over these areas with a 120-grit sand paper if this is the case.Continue until the wall feels smooth to the touch and passes another light test.The paper at the end of the sanding pole can be used to reach the tops of walls.Sand gently when using a pole.
Step 5: Use a damp cloth to wipe the wall down.
Dust from your wall post-sanding will stick in your paint and cause a bumpy final surface.Get a damp rag and run it over the wall.Make sure the rag is just damp, not soaking wet, or it will damp the surface compound.You can go over the wall with a feather duster if you want an extra layer of protection.After applying compound, sanding, and wiping down, let the wall dry for at least 48 hours.
Step 6: Drop cloths should be placed under the walls.
Drop cloths are the best.They won't get slippery like plastic ones.If you use bed sheets, the paint won't soak through to the floor.Put the cloth against the wall and fans out a few feet away.It won't get in your way to catch any splatters.Unless you plan to paint the ceiling as well, you don't need to set drop cloths across the entire floor of a room.
Step 7: Pick the correct primer for the project.
It's important to apply primer to smooth out your drywall and allow the paint to bind more fully.If you are going to use a dark paint, choose a tinted primer.If you are worried about mildew, use a primer.Pick an odor-blocking primer if you're worried about the wall absorbing smells.A paint professional can mix together an altered color for you if you request it.Many people prefer to use a primer in the basement or add an extra layer of protection for the exterior walls.Sam Adams is a full service contractor.It is cheaper than a regular primer, and it is specifically made for new drywall.You will be spending twice as much for a primer if you use something else.
Step 8: Put a single coat of primer on.
All-in-one paint and primer combinations may not stick fully to the wall.Instead, use a roller and paint brush to apply a coat of a primer.Continue until the entire wall is covered.The primer is a bit thicker than traditional paint.The primer is able to bind with the drywall because of the glue.
Step 9: You should paint your wall within 2 days.
With 24 hours of application, your primer should be fully dried.You won't get the extra binding properties of the primer if you wait more than 2 days to apply a top coat of paint.It is best to apply another coat of primer before moving on to painting if you are forced to delay.
Step 10: Add a paint enhancer.
Add a paint conditioner or extender to your buckets before you start painting.Determine how much you need to add to each bucket by following the instructions on the bottle.Before pouring it out, mix thoroughly with a mixing stick.The appearance of brush strokes can be minimized with paint extenders.
Step 11: Paint the edges of the wall with a brush.
You can dip the bottom of your brush into the pan once you have poured a bit of paint.Apply a wide band of paint around the outer edges of your space with smooth strokes.When they're done, the trim area of your wall will look better.It will make it easier to roll paint onto the wall.You can keep the paint from dripping off your brush by lightly bumping the sides of the brush against the roll pan.The best way to paint the edges of a space is with a synthetic bristle brush.
Step 12: Paint can be applied with a roller to the middle sections of the wall.
The nap of the roller is made out of lambswool or mohair.This helps to keep the splatter to a minimum.The pan has a roller in it.Place the roller against the wall to apply the paint.Continue until the wall is painted.Don't overload the roller with paint.You will end up with more splatters if you do.Attach a plastic shield to the handle of the roller if you are worried about it splattering.
Step 13: The sand is between the coats of paint.
Give the paint a full 48 hours to dry after you finish the first coat.Put your hand against it to check it.Go over the entire space with 150-grit sandpaper.This will help your next coat of paint adhere better to the previous one.
Step 14: There are 1-2 more coats.
A single coat of paint is not enough to cover the surface over time.The primer may fade through in patches over time.If you want to prevent this, repeat the painting process until you have a total of 3-4 coats of paint on the wall, not including the primer layer.