The bearings on the trailer need to be replaced.

The wheel bearings are located inside the wheel hubs and help the trailer spin fast.It is important to keep your trailer in good shape.It might be time to replace your bearings if they start making noises.Basic mechanical tools, a new set of bearings, and a flat work surface are required in order to do so.You have to remove the hubs and bearings, clean them, apply new grease and reassemble them.Soon enough, your trailer will be rolling behind you again. Step 1: The hub assembly can be accessed by taking 1 wheel off the trailer. While the trailer is on the ground, loosen the nuts on all wheels with a wrench.Jack lifted the wheels off the ground.Remove the nuts from the 1 wheel and slide it off the hub.To get the trailer up off the ground, you will need a lifting jack.It's important to do this on a hard surface.You don't have to go under the trailer for any part of this process. Step 2: Remove the dust cap with a screwdriver. There is a metal cap in the middle of the hub.If you need to use a hammer, put the tip of the screwdriver under the dust cap.The screwdriver can be used to pry up the dust cap.You have to work your way around the perimeter of the cap to pull it off.The grease cap is also known as the dust cap.The nut that holds the hub assembly to the trailer is covered.The hub needs to be removed so you can access the bearings. Step 3: Pull the cotter pin out by bending it straight. A cotter pin has 2 tines which are bent after being installed to fix it in place.It goes through the middle of the hub and through a hole in the end.Pull the cotter pin out with pliers once it is straight.The split pin is also known as the cotter pin.To remove the hub assembly, you need to loosen the adjusting nut. Step 4: Remove the washers from the adjusting nut. The adjusting nut is located in the middle of the hub.The adjusting nut should be set aside if you want to remove it.Put the washer under the nut as well.A cage-like structure surrounds some adjusting nuts.You can use your flathead screwdriver to free the nut if you see this. Step 5: Place the hub assembly on a flat surface. The hub assembly is behind the wheel and under the trailer that spins the wheels.Place your thumbs over the outer bearing and the hub assembly will not fall out.Carefully pull the hub assembly towards you until it slides off the shaft, then set it up on a flat work surface.If the hub does not slide off easily, try rocking it back and forth to loosen it.To knock the hub assembly loose, you can use a mallet to gently tap the back of the assembly. Step 6: The outer bearing needs to be removed from the hub. Underneath the adjusting nut and washer that you removed is the outer bearing that faces towards the wheels.Lift the outer bearing with your fingers, then set it aside.The outer race and inner race are rings that hold the ball bearings in between them.The whole piece will be comprised of 2 rings with metal balls inside them, when you pull the bearing out. Step 7: The hub should be on a pair of 2x4s. There is a gap between the 2x4s that is larger than the diameter of the bearings.Place the hub assembly face-up on the 2x4s so the inner bearing, which is the bearing facing towards the underside of the trailer, away from the wheels, is aligned with the gap between them.You can knock it out with this.To get the seal out of the inner bearing, you have to knock it out from the other side.You have to lift it out like you did with the outer bearing. Step 8: To tap out the inner bearing, use a hammer and punch. The hub should be placed against the inner bearing.The inner bearing and seal can be knocked out with a hammer.You have to work your way around the bearing to get it out of the hub.A punch is a metal rod with a sharp tip and a blunt end.If you don't have a punch, you can use a wooden dowel rod to knock the inner bearing out. Step 9: The process should be repeated for the remaining wheels. If you want to take off all the wheels at once, you have to loosen the nuts with your wrench.The process of removing hub assembly and all of the bearings should be repeated. Step 10: The old lubricant can be wiped off with a rag. You can use a spare rag to wipe grease off the outside of the shaft.The inside of the hub assembly needs to be done the same way.Grease gets dirty over time, so it's important to remove the old grease and relubricate everything with new, clean grease. Step 11: The hub assembly and the spindle shaft need to be cleaned. The rag should be soaked in grease or kerosene and wiped clean.Put the hub in a container and fill it with something.Allow it to soak for a few minutes, then use a rag to wipe the grease off the hub.If you have compressed air, you can blow-dry the parts.Before applying new grease, wipe them dry with a clean rag and let them air dry.Kerosene can cause irritation to the skin, so wear rubber gloves while cleaning to avoid this.You will need to dispose of dirty kerosene at a hazardous waste collection site. Step 12: Grease should be applied to the shaft. Pick up a small amount of new wheel bearing grease by sticking 2 of your fingers in it.To lubricate it, wipe it all over the shaft.This will help with cooling and reassembly. Step 13: The new bearings should be packed with wheel bearing grease. Take your bearings out of their packaging.grease the palm of your non-dominant handGrease should be put under the balls of the bearings by smashing the large side against the grease in your palm to force it inside until you see grease coming out the small side.One side is slightly larger than the other. Step 14: Use wheel bearing grease to fill the hub. Take some grease out of your hand.Apply it to the entire inside of the hub.The seal won't sit on the inner bearing if you put lubricant on it. Step 15: Put the inner bearing in the hub and put the new seal on it. Put the hub face-down on your work surface.Place the seal on top so the lip is facing the bearing and tap it with a hammer until it is flush.The non-metal part of the seal is the lip.The grease needs to be held in by the bearing. Step 16: The outer bearing needs to be inserted. If you want the hub to be face-up on your work surface, flip it over.The outer bearing should be inserted first.You can put the hubs back on the trailer after your bearings are installed. Step 17: The hub assembly needs to be moved back onto the shaft. Pick up the hub with both hands and hold your thumbs over the outer bearing.The hub should be pushed all the way back onto the shaft.As long as you lubricate the shaft, the hub will slide on its own.If not, apply a little more grease to the shaft. Step 18: The washer and adjusting nut should be put back on. The washer should be put back over the end of the shaft.To tighten the adjusting nut, start by hand and finish with a wrench.If you want to make sure the adjusting nut is properly tightened, you have to tighten it all the way. Step 19: A new cotter pin is needed to lock the nut. A new cotter pin can be slid through the end of the spindle shaft if you loosen the nut.Attach the cotter pin with pliers.The adjustment nut can't be turned anymore if you secure the cotter pin in place. Step 20: The hub has a dust cap on it. The adjustment nut should be placed over the dust cap.Use a hammer to secure it in place.The outer bearing and grease are protected from getting dust and dirt by the dust cap. Step 21: Remove the wheels from the trailer. Take the wheels out of the hubs and put the nuts back on.The trailer should be jacked back down so the wheels can rest on the ground.You can take your trailer for a test drive.