While protecting sloping rooftops from the effects of rain, snow and hail, shingles also provide an attractive crown for the house.Water damage and leaks can be avoided by keeping a solid roofing layer of shingles.It will keep you from having problems for 20 or 40 years.The reward of an attractive, watertight roof is worth the hard work of laying shingles.
Step 1: It is appropriate to size your shingles.
Some roofers prefer to cut five different sizes of shingles when using the basic three-tab variety.In order to start the first course, you'll have to change the area to fill each row.Half of the final tab should be cut off for your first course, and a full tab for the second and third courses.
Step 2: There is a row at the bottom of the roof.
The tab meets the upper part of the shingle, so place the nails above the cutouts.Make sure you don't nail the tar strip.In line with the other two, place a nail 2 inches from each end of the shingle.Four nails per shingle.The next shingle will cover the nail heads and allow the next and subsequent rows of nails in shingles to hold the top edge of the lower row.The nails will come loose if the nail gun is too deep.The air compressor and gun depth should be set lower.
Step 3: The narrow starter row is covered by the first row of shingles.
To use as a guide, snap a horizontal chalk line over the starting row.Cut six inches off the length of the first starter shingle, then use the rest of them full size.The ends of the first regular row of shingles will be joined in this way.The "straight up" way of laying shingles is the basic one.There is a row of shingles or a roll of strip material that you can cut to the length of your roof.A starting row of full-sized shingles can be turned with the tabs pointing upward.
Step 4: The second row of shingles needs to be laid.
Set the first shingle of the second row back a half tab, 6 inches (17 centimeters), so that the bottom of its tabs don't touch the cutout slots on the shingle below.There is a 1/2 tab hanging off the left edge of the gable roof.There is a chalk line from the inside edge of the first shingle to the second row on the roof.The chalk lines will serve as a guide for the next rows of shingles.Continue up the roof until you reach the peaks.
Step 5: It is necessary to shingle around stacks, vents and chimneys.
To protect roofing over holes that are sagging, dimpling, cracking and leaking, you can nail pieces of aluminum sheeting over them.Stack pipes, vents and chimneys are surrounded by metal flashing.The flashing should be interlaced with the shingles on the sides.Water will run down the roof but not under the interlacing.The bottom 2 or 3 rows that meet the flashing should go under the upper rows.
Step 6: The flashing around the chimney is connected by rows of shingles.
Before laying shingles over the lower half of the chimney, you need to cement a sheet metal apron over its upper edge.The lower apron should be covered with a layer of flashing that tucks under the top apron using asphalt roofing cement.
Step 7: The ridge edges should be brought together with a ridge-capping layer.
You can either use special shingles called ridge shingles or cut a number of regular shingles into 3 tabbed pieces and bend each so they fit on the roof peak and nail them into place.You will need longer nails for this part as you drive through more shingles.
Step 8: Understand the basic patterns.
You can get the most life out of your roof by laying it in a smart pattern.The basic straight up pattern is perhaps the easiest and most commonly used, but professional roofers have different opinions about the most proper and efficient method of laying the shingles, which differ slightly in the amount of overlap and the pattern in which you install them.The basic patterns include a straight-up pattern and a half pattern.
Step 9: The half pattern is achieved by staggered each course.
The other patterns work the same way, offsetting the courses by a certain amount.You can protect butt joints and water by starting a new course 6-inches in every row.The butt joints offer stability and protection.
Step 10: For added protection, consider four and five inch offsets.
The method is the same and the measurement of the offset is slightly different.The standard shingles will realign every ten courses in an offset of four inches.You can use cutouts to overlap every two courses, making less work for you, if you understand the benefits of each method.The pattern is less desirable for places that are very wet.The five-inch offset is the most popular pattern for roofers.It offers the most protection per shingle, making it less likely that you'll end up paying more for it.
Step 11: When you reach the top on each side, consider "racking" shingles.
The technique uses two sizes of the first shingle of each row, the regular 3 tab pieces and shortened pieces for each end, working vertically rather than horizontally.It goes much quicker, allowing you to keep your tools next to you while you work.A condition called "pattern curling" is when the shingles blow in the wind at the places where the racked columns join.Water may leak from the places where racked columns meet if this curling leads to water getting under shingles.The manufacturer's warranty on the quality and useful life of some brands of shingles may be voided in some cases.It is a common practice among contractors.