Mushrooms don't take up much space in your garden compared to fruits and vegetables.Oyster mushrooms are the easiest to grow, but once you learn the tools of the trade, you can try a lot of different mushrooms.
Step 1: Purchase mushrooms.
Oyster mushrooms are a great choice for beginners.To get started, buy them online, in a home gardening store, or in the form of "spawn": mycelium stored in sawdust, grain or agar.As part of a complete oyster mushroom kit, you can buy the spawn alone.Any oyster mushroom variety will work, but blue grey oysters and pink oysters are easy to grow outdoors.Plug spawning is an even easier alternative.Just drill holes in the side of a fallen log, insert plugs, and wait for the weather to improve.
Step 2: It's a good idea to make a Pasteurized Substrate.
If your kit came with a large bag of straw, that's a ready-to-go material that provides a place to grow.If you only have a small container of mushroom spawn, you'll need to heat it so beneficial microbes can grow.The best way to make a substrate is in sawdust.Cut corrugated cardboard into pieces of equal size.Put the cardboard in a bucket and use a heavy object to weigh it down.Place the cardboard in the boiling water.Cool with a lid for eight hours.Use antibacterial soap to wash hands.As much water as you can squeeze out.It's best to be in grain1.Choose a straw made of wheat or rye.Use a weed whacker or a shredder to cut into 3–4 inch lengths.Tie in a pillowcase or nylon mesh laundry bag.For one hour, the temperature is 160–170oF (70–75oC).Cool well and drain well.
Step 3: The spawn needs to be added to the substrate.
This is called inoculation.If you want to minimize competition from other spores, wash your hands first and inoculate as soon as the substrate is ready.There are cardboard squares inside a plastic bag.As you stack, sprinkle a small amount of spawn between the layers.If it's in a solid clump, break it up by hand.A table is being wiped with 70% alcohol.Break up the spawn by spreading the straw out on the table.Transfer to food-grade plastic bags that are not compressed.You can start with a mix that is 2 or 3% spawn by weight.Adding more spawning helps the colony grow.
Step 4: There are holes in the bag
The bag needs to be closed.Water drainage can be achieved by punching holes into the sides of the bag every 3 inches or so.Carbon dioxide build-up will prevent fruiting if the mushrooms grow quickly and reliably.There are holes in most bags included in mushroom kits.
Step 5: A location with a steady temperature is what you should choose.
The mycelium is ready to colonize.The strains do this best at temperatures between 60o and 75o.Try to find a room that stays at this temperature for 24 hours a day, even if it is a small variation in temperature.Mycelium can grow at any light level.Some growers get better results with low light on a daylight cycle.Too much light can cause grain to grow and interfere with mushroom growth.The strain affects the ideal temperature.If you received instructions for a growing environment, follow them.
Step 6: The next few weeks are a good time to check the levels of water.
It takes two to five weeks for mycelium to spread.All you need to do during this time is check the level of the water.If the bag feels dry, mist it through the holes.There are more drainage holes in the base if you see standing water inside the bag.Mycelium is not black.There is mold in the bag if you see large patches of another color.Before trying again, wipe the area with alcohol and throw the bag away.
Step 7: The bag has to be moved to a fruiting environment.
The mycelium forms a thick mat inside the bag and is ready to produce fruit.Mushrooms will not fruit without light, so move the fungus to a new location and follow the instructions.Provide enough to read during the day.indirect daylight is a grow light that mimics daylight or a cool white bulb.Fresh air is needed to clear out carbon dioxide, which prevents fruiting or leads to small mushrooms.The top of the bag should be open to let in the breeze.Lower the temperature to 55–61oF.Run a humidifier or hang plastic sheets around the grow bag to increase humidity.Other conditions can affect the yield, shape, and color of your mushrooms.
Step 8: Water lightly.
Common problems at this stage are over- and under- watering.To prevent the mushrooms from drying out, lightly spray the inner walls of the bag.If the growing mushrooms turn brown, or new mushrooms start to grow on an older mushroom's surface, the substrate is probably too dry.If the mushrooms feel clammy or sticky, it's probably too wet.
Step 9: Pick the mushrooms that grow to full size.
If the conditions are right, mushrooms grow quickly over the next few days.Once they have reached full size, press down on the substrate with one hand, then twist the stalks off at the base.You can eat them immediately or dry them for later use.If you don't know what a fully developed oyster mushroom looks like, wait until the edges of the first mushroom go wavy.This is past optimal harvesting point, but still delicious.Pick the other mushrooms before they reach the size of the first.Some strains have small, aborted mushrooms.Don't pick them, leave them in place.
Step 10: Continue to harvest mushrooms
It's good for at least two fruitings and some will grow for three or four months.Continue to pick mushrooms until they stop appearing.
Step 11: You can experiment with other mushroom varieties.
The basic process for growing oyster mushrooms works for most mushroom species, but you will need to make adjustments.If you want to adjust your approach, check the instructions or ask the seller for the following information.
Step 12: Don't let conditions get dirty.
If you have mold in your mushrooms, they will be useless.Most mushroom species are not as resistant to contamination as oyster mushrooms are, so it pays to spend more effort keeping the area clean: wash your hands with antibacterial soap before handling any part of the operation.To pasteurize, take special care.Look into a steam room or chemical treatment if stovetop heating becomes impractical.The treatment of a compost is complex and may require help from an experienced grower.
Step 13: The case should be covered with a Substrate.
"Casing" is a layer of sterile material on top of a tray of substrate.It's best to keep the case moist so the water doesn't cause it to be soggy.Some types of spawn don't need casing.If you want advice, ask the seller or an experienced grower.Don't open the area until the tiny pins have appeared on the surface.Before the pins break through, fruiting will occur before the mushrooms grow underneath the casing.
Step 14: Take control of the growing conditions.
Tracking and controlling temperature and humidity will improve your mushroom harvests.Prepare a room with fans, an air duct, and a heating system if you want to grow mushrooms.It is possible to record temperature and humidity.The ceiling and floor of a room can vary in temperature.If you're growing on multiple shelves, make sure you have a temperature on each level.Some mushroom types can be killed by strong drafts.The spawn should be protected from the wind.
Step 15: After a harvest, get rid of the stuff.
If you plan on growing more mushrooms in the same room, you should pasteurize your mushrooms to rid the room of mold andbacteria.This can take up to 24 hours to steaming at 150oF (70oC).You can use it as garden compost or mulch if you want.Some plants are sensitive to a high concentration of salt.The problem should be solved by leaving it outdoors for six months.
Step 16: You can make your own mushroom.
You could grow your own from the spores.There are many free resources that can help you with this task.Try contacting the mycological association in your area.A way to create a culture is to make a spore print.You don't need to draw a T pattern to transfer the spores to a petri dish.Some petri dishes may fail to grow.A mostly sterile environment is needed for making spawn.All rugs and curtains should be removed before you start.The ceiling should be cleaned with mild disinfectant.Make an "antechamber" at the entrance with a second layer of plastic by covering all openings with plastic.