There is a non-toxic synthetic leather smell.
The road to substitution of a hazardous substance can be long and costly.
The Zero Discharge of Hazardous Substances Foundation (ZDHC) and a group of global fashion brands, with the H&M Group in the forefront, have proven that substitution is not only possible, but also necessary.
In the production of plastic, rubber, and synthetic leather, Dimethylformamide is used as a solvent.The smell of the chemical is strong in the finished product.
Great!A versatile substance?Yes, and a very toxic one.It can cause many adverse health effects, including infertility, if it is absorbed through the skin.
Factory workers manufacturing synthetic leather are particularly at risk of being exposed to the chemical because it is harmful to everyone who comes in contact with it.
Since 2008, the Substance of Very High Concern has been listed under the REACH legislation.
The alternatives The H&M Group put on their own Restricted Substances List as early as 2007.The quest to find alternative technologies for synthetic leather manufacturing really took off when the chemical was added to H&M Group's Manufacturing Restricted Substances List.
The fashion company involved the supply chain and chemical industry on product development and developed a certification routine to secure materials and products.
The first water-based technology was introduced.A non-solvent technology was developed three years later.Carbon dioxide is the only by-product of the non-solvent technology.
By the year 2017, there were at least two viable alternatives for H&M Group to choose from.There is no company that is an island.It was difficult for a single brand to tackle the issue alone since it was used in more than 99% of the global synthetic leather production.
H&M Group and other brands had talked to producers individually, but few seemed to understand how the switch to alternative technologies should be done.
The H&M Group sought support from the ZDHC, a global multi-stakeholder initiative of more than 160 contributors within the fashion and footwear industry, and asked them to coordinate with the synthetic leather industry.
In 2015, the ZDHC sought collaboration with the China Synthetic Leather Industry Association (CPASL), as well as the Chinese government, who were interested in reducing the use of DMFa and similar chemicals.
The ZDHC was able to influence the entire supply chain with the help of its 160 contributing fashion and footwear brands.
When issues such as quality, durability, development and production costs had been solved, brands gained trust in the new material and technologies, which led to an increase in production and order placements.
The H&M Group has been manufacturing synthetic leather with non-solvent technology.In September of 2020, the majority of the company's synthetic leather was produced without it.When the material is used with glitter, metallic and all over prints, there are some technical challenges that remain.
The ZDHC helped run the phase-out pilot in China.More chemical companies increased investment and technology development, while more and more companies are transferring from traditional production of synthetic leather to DMF-free manufacturing.
Water-based synthetic leather production in China increased by 600% between 2015 and 2019.
The ZDHC brands are acknowledged for their role in the phase-out.The way to safer production of synthetic leather is being led by the brands and their suppliers.Some have completely eliminated the chemical from their production.The synthetic leather manufacturing process is about to become redundant.
Even if technical solutions seem to be within reach, changing an industry and adopting better production practices does not happen overnight.The process of substituting is similar to many others.The story shows that collaborative efforts, open communication and stakeholder engagement can bring lasting sustainable change to an industry.The change is mostly unnoted from a consumer perspective.Lydia Lin, ZDHC East Asia Regional Director says that it is a reliable sign that brands are put into action.
Toxic chemicals cause problems for human health as well as the environment, and their effects involve huge costs in terms of both money and misery.
Do you know if your company still uses hazardous substances in production?Future-proof your business by taking a look at the alternatives listed here.