It is important that you take the time to figure out the best way to arrange the tiles in your home.In most rooms, square and rectangular tiles fit together in a grid pattern.To serve as a placement guide, establish a series of layout lines and draw a line across to the opposing wall.You can start dry-fitting the tiles around the room's center point by working your way outward in manageable sections.
Step 1: Find the square footage of the room.
To determine the square footage of a square or rectangular room, you need to find the length of 2 adjacent walls in square feet.If you add the length and width of the extra space separately, you can make a bigger room.If you're measuring a rectangular room that's 18 square feet, you can use the total square footage to figure it out.Figuring out the room's square footage will tell you how much tile you'll need for your flooring project, which may influence the size and style you go with.
Step 2: The size of your tiles should be noted.
You can keep track of the tile's dimensions by writing them down in a notebook or on a separate sheet of paper.To determine how many will fit within the floor space of the room you are tiling, you need to know their exact length and width.On the product listing, packaging, or order invoice, the size of the tiles should be clearly shown.It's a good idea to measure the tiles yourself if the dimensions are off.
Step 3: You can find the length of the room's walls.
Take a tape measure from corner to corner.If you want to specify which measurements are which, record this number in your notebook.You can start with either set of opposing walls if the room is perfectly square.Measure the wall using the same unit as your tiles.If the length and width of the tiles are given in inches, you will want to measure the room as well.
Step 4: The wall should be marked by the middle of it.
Use a carpenter's pencil to draw a small notch or dot on the floor if you divide the walls in half.You can find the room's center by aligning the midpoints of the walls.For a wall that is 16 feet long, you would make a mark of 8 feet.If the room is perfectly square, you can draw a line straight across the wall to save time.
Step 5: You can draw a line between the walls.
To make sure the line is straight, run the tip of your pencil along the edge of a yardstick or straight edge, using a framing square to ensure a precise 90-degree angle.To keep the line from becoming crooked, double-check the orientation of the yardstick every few feet.You can use a chalk line tool.Pull up the retractable wire between the 2 walls and leave behind a perfectly straight line of chalk.
Step 6: The process can be repeated on the shorter walls of the room.
Measure the length of the remaining pair of walls.Draw a line through the center of the room.The first line will show the center of the room.Draw your lines so that they run from one room to the next when tiling adjoining rooms.The line should be in the center of the two rooms.
Step 7: The "3-4-5" method can be used to find the center of irregularly-shaped rooms.
Take 4 feet from the center of the line you drew and mark it.Next, mark 3 feet down along the center of the wall line.Between the 3 ft (0.91) m mark and the 4 ft (1.2 m) mark, stretch your tape measure.5 ft is the distance between the marks.Make a final mark where the tape measure crosses the 4 ft mark to find the room's center.For rooms with odd dimensions, this method is useful.
Step 8: The tiles should be arranged from the center of the room.
Place a tile at the corners where the wall lines intersect.If you start at the center of the room, you won't end up with gaps or narrow tiles around the outer perimeter.The tiles in the central part of the room are Symmetrical.
Step 9: If you want to separate the tiles, use spacers.
Before putting down the next tile in the row, place a tile spacer at either end.The spacers will make sure that your layout stays neat and even.The minimum distance you need to leave between each tile is shown by the spacers.There are many different sizes of tile spacers.8 in (0.32 cm) spacers are standard for most flooring projects and are the amount of space you leave between tiles.Unsanded grout will get down into the lines more easily if you plan to have smaller lines.It's better to use sanded grout for lines larger than 8 in (0.32 cm).You can choose between sanded or unsanded for areas that will need to be scrubbed frequently, since it's more durable.If your tiles aren't perfectly uniform and your grout lines are small, it will look more obvious.
Step 10: Work your way to the wall.
From the 4 central tiles, lay out the rest of the tiles in a straight line.Return to the center and work your way toward the opposite wall to form a row.Before moving on to the next row, be sure to complete 1 row.
Step 11: The tile should be laid in 2–3 ft sections.
The dimensions of your tile will affect the optimum size of each section.If you are working with 12 in (30 cm) square tiles, your section might be comprised of 2 tiles in each direction.If you need a visual aid to help you keep track of your sections, snap a series of chalk lines to clearly mark where each next group of tiles should go.Straighter, more precise grout lines are usually the result of dry-fitting your tile in sections.
Step 12: If you need to cut it, mark the last tile in the row.
If you are near the edges of the room, you may not have enough space to set the final tile.When this happens, you will need to cut your end tiles.Measure the distance between the last full tile and the wall and mark it on the end tile.You can use a masonry saw to cut the tile.Pick up the rest of the tiles in the row and move them towards the opposite wall if the space at the end of a row is narrow.The other rows should be adjusted accordingly.That way, you'll have a larger partial tile at either end instead of a small one.
Step 13: To fit end tiles around a fixture, trim them.
It may be necessary to cut tiles when they run up against obstacles.To do this, record the length and width of the object and mark them on the tile using a straight edge.You can use a wooden or scrap piece of cardboard to account for the lines in your measurements.Make sure the lines you draw on your tiles are clearly visible.When it's time to cut, they'll be a guide.
Step 14: The tile needs to be installed.
Once you are happy with your layout, you can call a tiling contractor and have your tile put in.If you have experience with home improvement projects, you might be able to tackle the job yourself.You will have a custom-designed tiled floor when you are done.Before you break out the mortar and grout, take care of any last-minute adjustments.It will be too late to make changes by the time you start setting the tiles.The tiles will have to come up prior to installation.When the time comes, lay them out again in the same formation you used during the dry-fitting phase.