Pine can be difficult to stain because of their soft texture.Attempting to tint softwoods the way hardwoods are most often results in dull colors and grain reversal.Before brushing on the stain, it's a good idea to seal the wood.It's possible to prevent the wood from soaking up more pigment in certain areas.
Step 1: The wood can be sanded to remove inconsistencies.
Go over the pine using a wide, looping circular motion after starting with a coarse square.The first pass will leave you with a more even surface to work with and wear down the small ridges and knotholes characteristic of softwoods.A sanding block will allow you to apply more consistent pressure.Sanding helps open up the pores in natural wood surfaces, which will allow the stain to set in better.
Step 2: To smooth the surface, use a higher grit sandpaper.
Sand the pine a second time after taking off the rough outer layer.The wood should be prepared for staining with an additional sanding.Don't forget to go over the cut ends if you're working with raw pine boards.
Step 3: To raise the grain, scrub the wood with a soft sponge.
Give the sponge a squeeze to get out the excess water.Run the damp sponge over the pine from end to end with sweeping strokes.This will help restore the grain and pick up debris.The wood grain is compressed after being sanded.The surface fibers swell, returning them to their natural position.
Step 4: Two coats of wood conditioner are required.
If you are staining boards, spread the sealant over all exposed areas.The pine will absorb the first coat.The sealant should start to pool on the grain after the second coat.Touch up the sections you conditioned first to keep them wet as you work.Pre-sealing your pine allows the stain to stand out on top without being absorbed into the wood.
Step 5: The excess conditioner needs to be wiped off.
To remove as much of the watery sealant as you can, use a clean cloth.There should be no standing water or wet spots when you are done.You should wipe down every part of the pine that you treated.Too much sealant will prevent the stain from setting in.
Step 6: The wood should be left to dry for a few hours.
It's best to keep it in a clean place with low humidity.You will be able to stain successfully once the sealant has set up inside the pores.
Step 7: Put the stain on the wood.
Transfer the stain to the piece with a scrap cloth or chisel-tipped brush.Spread the stain across the wood in eccentric circles or back and forth using smooth strokes.Be conservative.You can get a darker tone if you layer coats little by little.A sponge brush can be used to stain corners and other hard to reach spaces.
Step 8: Put the stain into the wood.
Continue brushing or rubbing the stain until it reaches the edges of the surface.If the finish is too dark or light in one area, it means the stain hasn't been spread well enough.There is a stain on the end grain of boards, blocks, and other forms of raw pine.
Step 9: The excess stain should be wiped off.
Take a clean cloth and run it along the surface of the pine to collect any standing finish after a minute or two.The color of the wood will be altered by what is left behind.The appearance of the pine should not be affected by the preliminary seal.It is important to remove any stain that is not already in the pine.
Step 10: Allow the stain to dry.
Wait until the first coat has dried before applying any more.The muddy finish is less than attractive if each layer is competing with the others.If you want to prevent the finish from rubbing off on anything nearby, set the piece on a tarp or sheet of newspaper.It may take up to 24 hours for the stain to dry.
Step 11: Follow up with more coats.
If you want to achieve the desired depth, brush on a second or third coat of stain.When you first wipe off the stain, the shade you see will be very close to how the wood will look once it dries.If you have used more than three coats, you should switch to a darker stain.Don't try to do too much.It is not possible to take back color once it has been applied.
Step 12: To make sure the stain is dry, test the wood.
If you want to know if the pine is ready for reapplication, you can use the corner of a paper towel or a pad of your finger.The stain is still wet if any color comes off.The stain is still wet.It's a good way to ruin your work.
Step 13: The stained surface should be wiped down.
Give the piece a quick once over with a microfiber cloth if you're satisfied that the stain is sufficiently dry.Dust and debris can be cleared to prevent them from being sealed onto the wood.To avoid removing the stain, use a light touch.
Step 14: There are 1-2 layers of clear coat on the pine.
You should cover every part of the wood that you stained.A clear coat protects the wood from wear and tear.If you want to use more than one coat, you should let the first dry to the touch.Any lacquer, varnish, or polyurethane sealant that is formulated for use on natural woods will do the trick.Don't apply the clear coat too much.Doing so could cause it to run.
Step 15: Allow the coat to dry completely.
Allow 24 hours for the finish to solidify.Don't handle the piece in the meantime.You can allow the piece to sit overnight on the safe side.Even an inexpensive material like pine can look elegant when finished the right way.If you want to use the new piece immediately, water-based sealants tend to dry faster than other products.