Tiling your own bathroom floor can be a satisfying and cost effective home repair project if you plan your project in advance.Everyone can do it if they plan.Prepare the foundation, lay the tile, and grout the floor so it will last for many years to come.You should get tiling!
Step 1: There is a problem.
Purchase tiles that are pleasing to the eye.Purchase more tiles than you need.A good rule of thumb is to get 15% more tiles in order to fit in narrow spaces and tiles that break in the shipping process.Vinyl tiles are easy to install and cheap, but there are many other types of tile.You won't need anything else besides the tiles to do it yourself.More work and materials are required for other types of tile.You won't need to buy anything else if you use vinyl.Follow the instructions on the package and follow the guidelines below.Plastic laminate and linoleum tiles are more popular than tiles.They are more expensive at 4 dollars per square foot.Other tiles made of wood, cork, stone, or glass are more expensive.If you like the look, these are a good option.
Step 2: Purchase thin-set mortar and tile.
To lock the tiles in and create a solid floor for your bathroom, you'll need to first layer a thin amount of mortar.Pre-mix and unmixed mortar can be found in a box.All you have to do is add water and buy whichever tub works for you.
Step 3: Buy tools that can be used.
In addition to the tiles, mortar, and grout, you'll also need: Measuring tape Cement board Utility knife 2 large buckets and a large sponge Notched trowel Hammer and roofing nails Tile cutter or wet saw
Step 4: Make sure the floor is prepared.
If you're in the middle of more major renovations or construction, make sure the tile surface is swept and cleaned.Make sure the floor is well-bonded to the sub-floor.The floor should be at least 1-1/8" thick.
Step 5: A lot of thin-set mortar is used.
The manufacturer tells you to mix the water with the mortar in a bucket.The mortar should be thick, a similar consistency to mud, but not so thick that it will fall off a trowel.It will begin to dry out if you mix more thin-set than you can use.
Step 6: The thin set should be spread on the sub-floor.
Spread the mortar evenly.Use the trowel to sweep.
Step 7: Cut the cement board in half.
To reinforce the floor with cement board, score it with a utility knife and lay it over the thin-set mortar.The backer board should be secured with roofing nails along the edge.Continue until the floor is covered and apply a thin layer of thin-set mortar over the joints.
Step 8: Don't lay tile until the next day.
The reference lines can be prepared to make sure the tile is laid evenly.
Step 9: A straight vertical and horizontal reference line is needed from the center of the room.
If you simply start laying tile along a crooked wall, it will look really crooked by the time you reach the opposite wall and you need to use a mason's chalk line to establish easily-removable reference lines.When walking into a room, look for the most visible wall.The longest area of tile is on the wall.Determine a 90-degree angle from that wall using a square and snap a chalk line across the room.Use the square again to mark a perfect 90-degree angle from the chalk line and snap another line that's parallel to the first one.Two intersecting chalk lines are a reference to lay the first tile.
Step 10: There is a row of tiles across the floor along the reference lines.
If necessary, shift the tiles so that any cuts that must be made by the wall are against the least noticeable wall.You don't want cut tiles at the entrance to the bathroom, so adjust the tiles so they are against the wall.Once the tile layout is finalized, you can snap additional chalk reference lines.
Step 11: The first tile should be placed in the far corner of the room.
Before the mortar has time to dry, you won't want to step on the tile.The tile is being laid in small sections.Spread a thin layer on the cement board with the notch trowel after mixing up a small amount of thin-set mortar.Establish even grout lines by laying several pieces of tile with tile spacers.Press the tile into the mortar to make sure there are no air bubbles.To make sure the tiles are flat, set a level across the top.
Step 12: To cut tiles, use a tile cutter or wet saw.
You may not be able to use a perfect number of tiles as you work towards the walls.You may have to make cuts for tiles that sit around toilets and other objects in the floor.
Step 13: The thin-set should be dry for a day.
Follow the instructions given to you by the manufacturer.
Step 14: Before adding grout, it is advisable to remove the tile spacers from between the tiles.
The manufacturer's directions say to mix the sanded grout with water in a bucket.
Step 15: Use a trowel to scoop some grout on the floor.
Work in small sections at a time by pressing it into the lines with the float.The tile has a chance to dry if the excess grout is not removed.Use the second bucket to wet the large sponge with rounded corners.If you want to move at a diagonal to the grout lines, you need to wipe over the tile with the sponge.If you wipe parallel to the lines, you could leave a mess.Continue rinsing the sponge in the bucket of water until all the grout is removed from the tile.
Step 16: Wait at least 2 days for the glue to cure.
It's smart to leave a humidifier on for two days to help the grout gain strength.