Tomatoes are a popular greenhouse crop.Greenhouse growers can get two tomato crops per year with good temperature control and plenty of light.It is necessary for more careful handling to prevent disease and successfully pollinate the flowers.
Step 1: The temperature should be checked.
Tomatoes grow best at daytime and nighttime temperatures of 70 to 80o F.You should make sure you can keep these temperatures in your greenhouse for several months before you plant.Bring temperatures to the lower end of the range on overcast days, and raise them to higher altitudes during clear, sunny days.If you want to prevent leaf mold, you need to keep the humidity low.Fresh, dry air can be brought into the greenhouse on cloudy mornings.
Step 2: Pick a tomato variety.
It's best to talk to the local growers of the tomato varieties.Tomatoes marketed as greenhouse varieties are more tolerant of greenhouse conditions.The variety is resistant to disease because of the letters VFNT and A.Tomatoes that are "indeterminate" grow and produce fruit indefinitely, taking advantage of the longer growing season inside a greenhouse.If you're short on space, plant a "determinate" variety, which stops at a certain height.
Step 3: You can choose a medium.
Any well-draining material can grow tomatoes.Rock wool slabs are the cheapest options in many areas, and you can use your preferred soil-less mix.A mix of sphagnum moss and vermiculite is preferred by some growers.Purchase sterile soil mix or make your own.Compost and soil should be sterilized before being used in your garden.If you don't want to install an irrigation system, choose this option.
Step 4: It's recommended to install an irrigation system.
The growers install tubing to deliver water.The tubing has afertilizer nozzles attached to it.Tomatoes can be grown in a Hydroponics system.Detailed instructions can be found in this article.
Step 5: Put the mix in a starting tray.
The tray should be washed thoroughly with soap and water.The tray should be filled with any of the mixes described.Make sure the soil is sterile.If you use a soil-less mix, you will need a seedling solution.
Step 6: Each seed should be planted in its own cup.
There is a 14 inch hole in each compartment of the starting tray.Each hole has a single seed.Place the mix lightly.If you plant more seeds than you plan, you can discard the less healthy ones.
Step 7: It's a good idea to moisten with water or a diluting solution.
For soil-less mixes, use plain water or a seedling solution.Water until the mixture is just damp enough to press into a clump, with only a few drops squeezed out.The mix should be kept damp by water.It's ideal to have a 5:2:5 solution with calcium and magnesium.The solution should beDiluted according to the instructions.
Step 8: The tray should be kept on the windowsill.
Don't bring the seeds into the greenhouse until they've sprouted, so you can check for diseases and pests.During the day, keep the temperature at 75–80o F and provide plenty of sunlight.If you want to keep temperatures under control, you should start the tray in partial sun.Once all seedlings have sprouted, move to full sun.It usually takes between 5 and 12 days.
Step 9: You can transplant to larger containers.
Two weeks after the plants emerge, transplant them to small pots in the greenhouse.After six to eight weeks, transplant them to larger pots or bags.A plant needs about 12 to 1 cubic foot of material.If grown in smaller pots, smaller varieties may produce less fruit.If you see insects, mold, or disease on a plant, do not bring them to the greenhouse.Each plant needs about 4 square feet of floor space.Airflow can be reduced by planting too close together.
Step 10: The levels of calcium and pH should be adjusted.
Before the final transplant, you may want to check the soil's pH.If your soil is acidic, add hydrated lime for each gallon of mix.Adding calcium can prevent blossom rot later on.If you want to add calcium without changing the pH, mix gypsum or calcium sulfate.If that's what you want to do, just apply the calcium-ladenfertilizer every week or two.Calcium can be supplied by injecting calcium nitrate into the irrigation feed.The calcium nitrate can't be stored with the mainfertilizer.
Step 11: It's a good idea toFertilize regularly.
The tomatoes will be in their final pot when you start fertilization.A 15-5-15 or 5-2-5 high in nitrogen and K would be a good choice.Apply the fertilizer according to instructions.The final fruits are ripening.If you want to fertilize in late autumn or winter, use artificial grow lights.
Step 12: Every week, remove suckers.
Side shoots that emerge where a leaf meets the main stem can be pinched off once a week.The main bud is at the top of the steam.The plant is trained to grow upward.The main stem of your plant can be damaged if the top is damaged.
Step 13: Take care of the tomato plants.
To keep the plants upright, tie them to stakes with twine.Plastic garden clips can be used to secure twine.The plant will grow up to 6 in 15 cm per week in peak growing season.Commercial operations save on materials by stringing a wire over each row.Attach the twine to the overhead wire.When a plant is small, you can place a tomato cage over it.These do not require as much maintenance.
Step 14: Take care of the flowers.
Tomatoes can pollinate themselves, but they need some help.The tomato flower's pollen is trapped inside a tube and must be released.Since most greenhouses lack bees or high wind, you'll need to act as the pollinator once the flowers are open.At any time between 10am and 2pm, you can touch the vibrator against the flower stalks.An electric toothbrush is a less effective option.If you want to distribute the pollen, you can place fans in the greenhouse.Large operations might want to keep their own bees.Give cotton swabs to your children or family members and have them rub them in the flowers to distribute the pollen.
Step 15: There are leaves and fruit.
Once the plant starts to fruit, thin each cluster down to four or five fruits, removing the smallest or most misshapen fruit.It is possible to go down to three per cluster for very large fruits.There are varieties with small fruits.Older leaves from the lower clusters should be snapped off as the fruit matures.Air circulation is improved by this.
Step 16: It's important to harvest as late as possible.
The longer the tomatoes stay on the vine, the more red they become.Commercial growers usually pick early when the fruit is 80% red to allow for time in shipping.