A female pig is pregnant.She may carry several pups, between one and six, and they're carried in the womb for up to 73 days.guinea pigs have a high maternal mortality rate as they are vulnerable to illnesses such as toxemia.Coming home from a pet store with a pregnant guinea pig is a common story.With proper care, this risk can be reduced and your baby can stay in good health.
Step 1: There are some symptoms of a pregnant woman.
Physical signs of pregnancy are hard to detect, and can only be seen at the end of the pregnancy.You may be able to tell if your guinea pig is pregnant by the fact that they begin to eat and drink more.You should not apply pressure to the abdomen.As they grow, young guinea pigs will begin to eat more.Small litters don't cause the belly to enlarge as much.guinea pigs don't nest specifically because of pregnancies, but they enjoy burrowing down in hay.
Step 2: Have the baby diagnosed by a vet.
Take your sow to the vet if you suspect she is pregnant.The vet will feel the abdomen to check for the presence of the fetus.The due date should be given by the vet.It is easy to mistake the bladder, kidneys, or even an enlarged ovary for a fetus if you don't feel the abdomen by a professional.Miscarriage may be caused by rough handling.It is possible to confirm a pregnant woman with a non-invasive procedure.How many pups there are and how many of them are alive will be confirmed by theechocardiography.
Step 3: Determine where the sow became pregnant from if the pregnancy is unexpected.
The sow was already pregnant when you purchased her or one of the other guinea pigs she has had contact with.Pet shops are bad for sexing guinea pigs and may have mis-sexed one of them.The sex of your other guinea pigs should be checked by a vet.It is possible that the sow was already pregnant when you bought her, because some pet stores do not separate the sexes early enough.
Step 4: Determine if the sow has a high risk of becoming pregnant.
For their first pregnancy, sows should be under seven months old.They should be under two years old if they have been pregnant before.If your baby does not meet the age requirements, you should talk to your vet.Critical Care of a similar product may be used for young guinea pigs.She is more likely to need intervention if she carries out her pregnancy and birth at the vets.Young sows are more likely to have a deficiency of vitamins during their pregnancies.The risk of the pelvis not being elastic enough to expand during the birthing process is higher for sows who are too old.
Step 5: Determine if the sow has a high risk of pregnant.
The risk of toxemia is higher for overweight sows.Discuss with your vet what your sow's diet should be during her pregnancies as this is a bad time to restrict her diet.
Step 6: Determine if the sow's breed makes the pups vulnerable to hereditary disease.
The lethal genes of the Dalmatian and Roan guinea pigs are passed down from one generation to the next.There is a 25% chance that each pup will be born lethal if one parent is of these breeds.If possible, check the parentage of the pregnant sow and the boar who fathered the pups to see if they have any hereditary diseases.You have to decide what to do if any of the pups are born with this condition.If you can't care for them yourself, a more experienced owner may be willing to take them or you may have to put them down.Lethal guinea pigs are white in colour, usually blind in both eyes, have crooked or deformed teeth, are often also deafness, and suffer from internal deformities.The pups may live for several years or die within a few days of birth.They will need a lot of medical care throughout their lives if they survive the first week.
Step 7: Stress during pregnancy can lead to illness for pregnant guinea pigs.
It can cause diseases such as toxemia or scare the sow so she doesn't want to eat or drink.Stress should be minimized as much as possible.Exposure to loud noises and bright lights should be reduced.Keep her away from the sun.Establish a daily routine with set times and stick to it, to provide consistency, and make any changes as early as possible in the pregnancy, when the stress will have less of an effect on the sow.Handling should be reduced to minimal levels.Do not handle the sow during the last two weeks of your pregnancies.She should be put into a box or a towel.
Step 8: She has eating and drinking habits.
It's important to check on your guinea pig several times a day, ideally every three to four hours.When you check, make a mental note of how much water and food she has eaten.If she becomes unwell, stops eating, or becomes very thirsty, you will be able to pick up clues early on.Contact your vet if the sow becomes disinterested in food.The vet will look at the pig.They may prescribe injections of dextrose solutions, steroids and calcium, which may or may not work.A loss of appetite can be a symptom of toxemia.
Step 9: The sow should be checked twice a week.
She should be checked for signs of illness.She is weighed by her eyes, nose, ears, and coat.Do not handle the sow in the last two to three weeks of pregnancy.She should be put into a box or a towel.The sow should gradually increase her weight.Her weight should never fall because of the litter's size.Do not hesitate to go to a vet if you have any concerns.
Step 10: During pregnancy, limit grooming.
Maternal grooming usually requires a lot of handling, so reduce to minimal levels.If the sow is long haired, cut her hair short at the end of the pregnancy as she will find it harder to clean herself and the hair may become dirty.Don't bath the sow while you're pregnant.It will be too much for her.
Step 11: Continue to work out with the sow.
Allow her to eat outside or on the floor.She can be moved into a box or onto a towel.It is important to keep her active to prevent Obesity and keep a healthy blood flow, but do not chase her or force her to exercise as pregnancy, particularly large litters, puts pressure on the circulation in guinea pigs and they are prone to heart attacks.
Step 12: Ensure you have adequate housing.
If you want to see what kind of housing is suitable, you can see Care for Guinea Pigs.Do not use multi-level housing if the temperature is consistent.A pregnant guinea pig needs a warm place to sleep at night.The pregnant guinea pigs should be kept indoors.If you keep pregnant guinea pigs in multi-level cages/hutches, they may not be able to get up to the higher tiers in the later stages of their pregnancies.
Step 13: Remove any animals.
If you have more than one sow, you should remove the pig to prevent others from getting pregnant.If this is the only sow you own, the pig must be removed before the sow reaches 50 days pregnant.She could become pregnant again as early as two hours after the birth if the pig is not removed by 50 days.
Step 14: If you need to, remove other sows.
If the pregnant sow gets along with the other companions of the same sex, she can be kept with them.Guinea pigs should be kept in groups while pregnant.If there are any signs that the pregnant sow is not getting along with another pig, remove the other pig and leave her in the cage.Remove any sows that are pregnant.The hormones in the placenta can cause contraction.The other sow may have a baby if they eat it.
Step 15: The housing needs to be cleaned frequently.
Twice a week or every three days, you should clean out the mess.If the anti-bacterial spray is specifically made for use on guinea pig housing, use it.There is a build-up of ammonia in urine.Ammonia can cause lung infections in pregnant women.
Step 16: It's a good idea to create a comfortable space.
Put at least 3 to 4 inches of bedding on the floor.Soft fleece or grass hay is what the bedding should be.The straw will not be soft enough for bedding.A small shoe box is on the side of the box.It's best to put it in a sheltered part of the house.If she chews the cardboard, have extra boxes or use a wicker or thick-plastic box.It will reduce stress if you have somewhere to hide.
Step 17: Provide pelleted feed.
Each chunk of kibble is the same in a pellet feed.If you can identify individual peas, corn, wheat, you should choose pellets.It prevents food from being fed.Too much feed can cause the pig to become overweight.It's a good idea to read the packet for how much, but it should be less than a dessert spoon a day.The guinea pig chooses the better bits of food over the less appetizing ones.Mineral deficiency is caused by this.If you are changing the feed, make a gradual change so that she is used to it.
Step 18: Clean water should be provided at all times.
guinea pigs should always have access to clean water, but it's even more important when they're pregnant.To make sure the water is clean, empty the bottle and refill it daily.If the water bottle is placed high up, give a second bottle to the sow so she doesn't have to stretch.It's a good idea to clean the water bottle weekly.The water bottle should be washed with a gentle dish soap every few days.
Step 19: Quality hay can be provided.
Provide grass hay with a green hue.You can supplement this with a daily dose of alfalfa hay.Provide a large ball of hay and make sure it is available all the time.A build-up of calcium can cause bladder stones in normal guinea pigs, which is why the calcium content is too high for them.
Step 20: Fresh vegetables are offered every day.
guinea pigs should be given at least one cup of fresh vegetables a day, but as the pregnant sow begins to eat more you can increase this to 112 to 2 cups per day.If you want to see which vegetables are suitable, see Care for Guinea Pigs.Don't offer the same vegetable two days in a row.This prevents the vegetable from having more than one mineral in it.There are lots of oxalate in carrots.It can build up in urine and cause bladder stones if your pet has too much of this.
Step 21: Provide enough vitamins and minerals.
guinea pigs are vulnerable to deficiency in vitamins C and calcium.Ensure you provide enough of these by using a supplement such as Oxbow Natural Science.Don't give a multi-vitamin.Excess vitamins can be passed in the urine and can cause problems.Do not rely on foods with added vitamins.Within 8 weeks of the manufacturing date, vitamins C and E break down.If the food has been in the store for a while, the chances are it won't have a lot of vitamins by the time you open the bag.
Step 22: You should give more fruit in the last 4 weeks of your pregnancies.
You should give a small cube of fruit every 3 days.The acid in fruits can cause mouth ulcers in guinea pigs.Keeping sugar levels high is important for toxemia.
Step 23: Make sure you have everything you need.
Don't use your regular cat and dog vet if you have a guinea pig.There is an emergency phone number for the vet.There is a piece of paper next to the guinea pig's cage.You don't want to have to search for it.The out-of-hours vet has a phone number.Discuss this with your vet if you don't have an out-of-hours vet in your area.You may have to contact an experienced breeder if they are willing to attend themselves.You will probably need Critical Care or a similar product for at least one pup.A towel is clean.
Step 24: It's hard to tell when a guinea pig will give birth.
Even if your vet gives you a due date, she may give birth several days later.The widening of the bones in the sow indicates that she will give birth within a week.
Step 25: Check on the sow every day for 60 days.
Someone is in charge of the birth.If possible, check on her every few hours.Check on the sow at night because most births occur during the day.If you can't check on the sow because of work.Asking a friend or neighbour to check on her is a good idea.A local breeder might be willing to help.
Step 26: In the last 10 days before the birth, toxemia and calcium deficiency are the most common.
Both of these are fatal without treatment so be on constant lookout for: loss of appetite, changes to drinking levels, drowsiness or weakness, and more obvious signs of illness such as muscle spasms or drooling.
Step 27: Listen carefully.
Listen for any groaning when you are checking on your pig.When your pig is about to give birth, she will give a groan.Chances are you will know it when you hear it.
Step 28: You should be present for the birth.
There should be about 5 minutes between pups.The sow will sit up with her head between her legs.Don't hold the mother.Don't crowd the mother, have one person in the room and another ready to make calls if necessary.Unless you need to, don't touch the pups.There is no need to remove other sows.
Step 29: If there are signs of trouble during the birth, you should call the vet.
Do not hesitate to contact the vet if there is a sign of trouble.Mother strains for 15 minutes without producing a pup.The labor is over an hour.Mother starts making "extreme" stress calls, she appears exhausted, and the vet may try to manipulate the piglet into a position where the mother can pass it.A caesarean surgery may be required.
Step 30: Only when absolutely necessary should you be with the pups.
If the pups emerge too quickly, the mother won't have time to break theamniotic sac.Carefully pick up the pup with a clean towel and remove the sac yourself if you're sure the mother won't do it herself.If you accidentally scratch the pup's eyes, don't use your fingers or nails.If a pup gets stuck in the birth canal, don't intervene.The position of pups before they are born should be manipulated by a skilled and experienced vet.
Step 31: Check the pups are breathing.
Lift it up and hold it at arm's length if it is a pup.Its head should be away from you.You can spin around once.The force should help it to breathe.Rub its back forwards and backwards if this doesn't work.
Step 32: The sow doesn't show any signs of the birth.
She will eat the pups after they are born.She will eat any bedding.There was blood on it.If you are certain the birth is over, you can help the sow clean by removing stained bedding.
Step 33: First-time mothers may run away from the pups if they are confused, so make sure the sow is interested in them.
If the sow runs away, put her and the pups together in a small box and her instincts should kick in.
Step 34: Expect the pups to be alert and ready to run when they are born.
Their eyes should be open, they should have fur and be able to walk and eat immediately.If any of the pups are not alert or able to walk, then contact your vet immediately.The pups don't need a heat lamp or heating pad.They should be kept the same temperature as the adults.
Step 35: The mother and pups should be left alone for a while.
If the pups seem to be doing well, it is best to give them some rest.If you have serious health concerns about one of the pups, contact a vet immediately.
Step 36: The pups and mother should be weighed the same day as the birth.
The only way to tell if a pig is declining is from their weight.The mother won't mind if you handle the pups from birth.The pups should weigh 212 to 31 2 ounces when they are born.
Step 37: The pups and mother should be weighed the next day.
If one of the pups is lighter than the others or has lost more weight, give them 15 minutes of one-on-one with their mother three times.Wait 24 hours after the birth to give additional feeding for one of the pups as it takes this long for some pups to begin feeding at all.
Step 38: The pups and mother need to be weighed daily.
Toxemia and calcium deficiency are still a threat for the first week after birth, so look out for signs of illness in the mother and continued weight loss.For the first three weeks, daily weighing should continue.The pups are likely to lose weight for the first three days, but should pick up again after this.If the weight doesn't pick up, or the pup does not improve with additional feeding, consult the vet.The mother's weight will change for a few days while she adjusts, but should settle within five days.If it changes after 5 days, consult the vet.
Step 39: The vet should check the mother and pups.
If the mother and pups are doing well, you don't need to go to the vet immediately, but you should see them in the first week if you have not picked up on something.
Step 40: Continue to give the enhanced diet.
Use grass hay and vitamins for the mother and her pups.As the pups begin to grow and eat more, give additional vegetables and increase the amount of these over the next few weeks.Provide fruit for the mother, but not the pups, as acid will be too much for them.The pups will be able to eat solid food from the beginning, and the mother will introduce them to new food.
Step 41: Sex the pups and separate them at the age of three to five weeks when the males are sexually mature.
The pups should be sexed by a vet to avoid accidents.The female pups should be with their mother.Introduce the male pups to the father.The adults will be a lot larger and could do serious harm if the introductions are gradual.Brothers will be fine to be housed together throughout their lives, but they may never get on well enough to live with each other permanently.
Step 42: At 21 days, the pups will be snoozing.
The average time for pups to be weaned is a few days before or after.The pups should weigh between 512 and 8 ounces.If you give the mother vitamins as part of her regular diet, she won't need them anymore.If you don't know if the pups are going to be pregnant at 21 days, the males should be removed.They will be able to cope without their mother's milk since they have been eating solid food for a few days.
Step 43: If you removed sows, you can bring them back to the pups at three to four weeks.
Gradually introduce the other females.It could take several days for them to live together.They will not be accepted immediately because they are pups of a familiar pig.
Step 44: Take a look at how easy it is for guinea pigs to become pregnant.
Three weeks of age is when a male guinea pig can become sexually mature.Females can become sexually mature as early as four weeks of age.A male pup can have a baby with its mother or sisters.Many people are sold sows which are already pregnant because the stores keep both sexes together.
Step 45: Group guinea pigs according to their sex.
Keeping the two sexes apart is the easiest way to prevent pregnancies.The pigs should be split at 3 weeks old.If you own a sow and a boar, make sure to provide company of the same sex for both of them, as guinea pigs are social animals and should be kept in groups.
Step 46: The male guinea pigs are Neuter.
If you want to prevent pregnancies in guinea pigs, you should have the pigs neutered.It is possible to have sows neutered, but this is riskier and more complex.Exotics or cavy savvy vets should always be used for guinea pig surgery.Neutered pigs should be kept separate from sows for four weeks.Sperm can live in his tubes for a long time.While neutering means he cannot produce more sperm, he could still theoretically sire offspring for a short time after castration.
Step 47: Don't breeding your pig.
There is a high risk of stillbirth for pregnant guinea pigs, who have a 1 in 5 chance of death.Many pigs in need of loving homes are available at your local rescue center.