Fruit-bearing and flowering plants, such as apple, maple, cherry, and orange trees, can be made smaller clones of the parent with the use of air layering.Remove a ring of bark from one of the newer branches.Wrap sphagnum moss and plastic wrap around the exposed wood to keep it moist.You can remove the branch and plant it in a pot if you see roots growing.
Step 1: In the spring, begin air layers.
When the roots have a summer growing season, air layers work best.When blooms start to form on the trees, wait until mid-spring.The sun doesn't put stress on the tree if you air layer it on a cloudy day.The roots may not grow if the temperatures are cold in the winter.
Step 2: You can choose a branch that is thicker than a pencil.
Look for branches that point up.Try to choose branches that have grown in the last year since they produce better roots.If you want the branch to grow well, make sure it's at least as thick as a pencil.In the late summer, choose growths from the current season.There are multiple branches on the same tree.
Step 3: The foliage and twigs are 3 inches around the leaf.
There is a point where leaves connect to the branch that is about 30 cm from the end of the growth.There is 3 inches of clear on either side of the branch if you pull the leaves off by hand.If there are twigs or other branches in that area, cut them off with a gardening knife or shears.If you remove all of the foliage from the branch, it won't grow as well.
Step 4: They need to make 2 parallel cuts through the bark.
If you feel the blade of the gardening knife make contact with the wood, push it into the bark.To cut a ring into the bark, you have to guide the knife around the branch.Move the blade 1–1 2 inches lower down the branch and cut a ring around it.If you want to cut through the branch completely, don't apply too much pressure to the knife blade.
Step 5: Remove the ring of bark from the branch.
If you want to start peeling the bark off, put the knife against the top cut and push the blade toward the bottom cut.Slowly tear the piece of bark away from the branch.Remove the bark from the ring until you see green or white wood underneath.To get a better grip on the bark, you may need to make a vertical cut from the top ring to the bottom ring.Before you peel off the bark, make sure you put on gardening gloves.
Step 6: The exposed wood should be removed with a knife blade.
The blade should be parallel to the top of the ring.To remove the protective plant layer on the wood, drag the blade down to the bottom of the ring.As you work your way around the branch, remove the wood up and down.If you leave the bark on, it will grow back if you rub the wood.If you plan to air layer multiple trees, you should use rubbing alcohol on your knife blade.That way, you don't spread diseases between plants.
Step 7: There is a rooting hormone applied to the wood.
It is easier to apply a liquid rooting hormone to the exposed wood.Put the paintbrush in the rooting hormone and let it do its job.You can increase the chances of roots forming by spreading the rooting hormone on the ring.You can buy rooting hormone at your local gardening store.It is not required to air layer trees, but it may speed up growth.
Step 8: The sphagnum moss should be moist in the water.
Sphagnum moss is a good rooting medium.Take a large amount of moss and put it in a container with water.Pull the moss out of the container and squeeze out any excess water.sphagnum moss can be purchased from your local gardening center.Wring out the moss as much as possible could prevent roots from forming and cause rot.
Step 9: Wrap sphagnum moss around the wood.
Hold one of the moss balls in each of your hands.Press the moss onto the top and bottom of the branch so it extends past the ring.If you squeeze the moss tightly, it will stay in place.To make sure the moss doesn't fall off the branch, let it go slowly.If it starts to slip, ask a helpers to hold it while you work.
Step 10: The moss can be covered with plastic or foil.
Remove a sheet of plastic cling wrap or aluminum foil large enough to cover the moss from the roll.Wrap or foil tightly against the moss and branch to make contact.Wrap the moss so you can trap the water and promote healthy root growth.You can see when roots form easier with plastic wrap.If there is direct sunlight throughout the day, use dark-colored or opaque plastic wrap to keep the moss from drying out.
Step 11: Take the branch off the tree and let the moss grow on it.
Look through the wrap or peel back the foil to see if there are roots growing in the moss.If you don't see anything, leave the wrap on the branch and take care of the tree.You can remove the air layer from the tree if you see roots around the outside of the moss.It will take 6 to 8 weeks for healthy roots to fill in the moss, but it may vary depending on the climate and tree species.If it feels dry when you check for roots, rewet the sphagnum moss.
Step 12: Take half of the pot and fill it with soil.
Choose a pot that is at least twice the size of the roots growing on the air layer.The pot needs to have drainage holes on the bottom so the soil doesn't get soggy.Pick a mix meant for trees and pour it into the pot.You can buy potting mix at your local gardening center.You can use pots for propagation.
Step 13: The branch must be cut off below the new roots.
To keep it steady, hold the branch with your nondominant hand.Put a pair of shears underneath the moss and squeeze the handles on the branch.Carefully remove the cut branch from the tree to avoid damaging the roots.If you can't cut through the branch with shears, use a tree saw.
Step 14: The roots are covered with plastic wrap or foil.
To make a starting hole, poke your gardening knife through the plastic wrap or foil.Pull the wrap apart by hand because you don't want to damage the roots.Pull off as much of the wrap or foil as possible, but leave the moss around the roots so you don't stress them.The tree may not grow well if moss is removed from the roots.
Step 15: Put the roots in the soil and fill the pot.
Keep the cut branch in the center of the pot by holding it vertically with your nondominant hand.If you scoop more potting mix around the moss, it will be completely covered.The space between the lip of the pot and the soil's surface is 1–2 inches.The soil around the tree needs to be shaped into a small mound to prevent root rot.
Step 16: Water the soil because it is moist below the surface.
The soil should be wet until it starts puddling on the surface.Allow the soil to absorb the water and then let it drain from the holes in the bottom of the pot.Take the water out of the pot and let it soak into the roots.The soil should stop watering if it feels wet 2 inches below the surface.If the soil feels dry, water the tree.
Step 17: Keep the tree out of the sun.
Place the tree near a window that isn't directly in the sun.Since it can cause the soil to dry out or damage the tree, make sure there aren't any drafts near it.The root system will adapt to the new medium if the plant is kept in its pot.If you want to keep the pot outside, make sure it doesn't get sunlight, otherwise it will use most of its energy to make new leaves or blooms instead of roots.
Step 18: The new tree needs to be planted in the ground.
The roots of the plant should be allowed to fully develop in the pot.When you are ready to transplant, dig a hole in the ground that is twice as wide and 6 inches deeper than the pot.Take the tree out of the pot and put it in the hole.The tree shouldn't get stressed if you water it as usual.If you want to help the tree grow straight, install a vertical post next to it.