Stretchy fabrics create comfortable, fitted garments, so they are an excellent choice for many sewing projects.Some stretchy fabrics are slippery and can be difficult to work with.To ensure that you get the best possible results when sewing stretchy fabrics, choose an appropriate sewing machine needle, select settings meant for stretchy fabric, and use some special techniques.
Step 1: For knits that are loose, you should use a ballpoint needle.
The rounded tip of the needle will go in between the knit fibers instead of piercing them.Choose a ballpoint needle if you're worried about damaging the fabric.For tightly woven knits, choose a thin needle or thick needle.There are sizes 10 US (70 European) through 16 US (100 European).A bigger number indicates a thicker needle.
Step 2: It's a good idea to use a stretch needle for knits.
If you are working with a lightweight, tightly-woven fabric such as Lycra, stretch silk jersey, or lightweight faux suede, a stretch needle will provide the best results.This type of needle is used to avoid skipped stitches.For tightly-woven fabrics, choose a thin needle and a thick one.The sizes of stretch needles are 11 US (75 European) through 14 US (90 European).
Step 3: If you need a special size, use a universal needle.
Universal needles come in a wide range of sizes.If you need a sewing machine needle that is not available in a specialty needle, you may have to get a universal needle.Universal needles range in size from 8 to 19 in the US.If you're unsure of what size you need for your fabric, choose a mid-range needle, such as a 14 US or 90 European.
Step 4: A double needle is needed for sewing zigzag hems.
To get a professional looking finish on hems, you might want to purchase a double needle to use with the zigzag stitch setting on your machine.A double stitch will be created by this type of needle zigzag.Check your sewing machine's manual to make sure it can accommodate a double needle and to get instructions on how to install one.
Step 5: Baste.
Baste stitching is when you sew a temporary stitch over a seam or hem to avoid making a mistake.Set your sewing machine's straight stitch to the longest length and then sew the areas you want to secure.If they don't look right to you, you can simply pull the end of the thread from the fabric and try again.Since stretchy fabrics can be hard to work with, sewing a baste stitch is optional.
Step 6: If your machine has one, you should choose the stretch stitch setting.
The best results will be provided by the stretch stitch setting.Not all machines have this setting.If your machine does, follow your instructions for setting it to the stretch stitch.If your sewing machine is an older model, it may not have a stretch stitch setting.The stretch stitch setting makes it very difficult to remove stitches if you make a mistake, so make sure to baste first and sew carefully.
Step 7: The zigzag or straight stitch is an alternative to the stretch stitch.
The zigzag stitch is a good alternative to the stretch stitch since it allows fabrics to stretch easily while keeping the hems secure.The straight stitch may work for some stretch fabrics, but you might want to test it on a scrap of stretchy fabric first to be sure.If you want to set your sewing machine to the zigzag or straight stitch setting, you need to check the instruction manual.
Step 8: If you are using a serger, choose an overedge stitch.
When you use a serger, the top and bottom threads are secured with loops along the edges of the fabric.The overedge stitch is a great way to keep your hems and stretchy seams.If you want to try this stitch without a serger, you should check your sewing machine's instruction manual.
Step 9: For all stitch types, choose a 2.5 to 3mm stitch length.
A longer stitch length creates more slack in the stitching.2.5 for less slack and 3 for more slack.If you have a machine with a digital interface and a stretch stitch setting, it should adjust the stitch length automatically.No matter what type of stitch you use, you will need to adjust the stitch length manually if you have a machine that requires it.
Step 10: Attach the fabric with ballpoint pins.
Ballpoint pins can be used to secure seams and hems before sewing.Instead of using a sharp tip, ballpoint pins go in between the knit fibers.The pins should be parallel to the hem or seam.It will be easier to remove the pins before you sew.
Step 11: If you want to prevent stretching, place stabilizing fabric under shoulder seams.
If you use a stretch fabric for a top, the weight of the fabric may cause your sleeves and shoulder seams to be stretched out.If you sew a non-stretchy stabilizing fabric into the shoulder seams, you can avoid this.Cut a 0.75 in piece of non-stretch fabric, such as silk or cotton, to the length you need to cover the seam.The stabilizing fabric should be even with the edge of the stretch fabric so that you can sew it together at the same time.Special types of fabric can be purchased.
Step 12: The easiest way to sew is in the least stretchy direction.
If you want to reduce your machine's pull on stretchy fabric, place the fabric on the machine so you will be sewing in the direction that has the least stretch.If you want to know which direction is the least stretchy, give your fabric a tug from a few different directions.Some fabrics have the same amount of stretch in all directions, so sewing in the least stretchy direction might not always be possible.
Step 13: Pull on the fabric as you sew.
Since stretchy fabric can extend far beyond its resting length, it's important to avoid pulling at it when sewing.Hold the fabric so that it doesn't get stretched out as you sew.The feed dogs should be allowed to move the fabric under the presser foot.
Step 14: If the feed dogs pull on the tissue paper, put it under the fabric.
If your machine pulls on the fabric or does not move it through efficiently, you can try placing a piece of tissue paper under it.The fabric and tissue paper should be used to sew the seams and hems.After sewing, remove the tissue paper from the stitches.The tissue paper should come off easily because it has been pierced multiple times.
Step 15: It's time to steam your finished project.
It is possible to steam the fabric after sewing it.To steam the fabric, use an iron or fabric steamer on the lowest setting.If you are worried about damaging the fabric with the heat from the steamer, you can place a towel or t-shirt over it.
Step 16: Before sewing stretchy fabrics, wash them.
It is up to you if you want to prewash stretchy fabrics.If you want to make sure that your fabric won't shrink or fade after you wash it, you should prewash it.Follow the instructions for the laundered fabric.It may be necessary to dry clean the fabric.
Step 17: If you want to prevent curling edges, spray stretchy fabric with a spray.
If your fabric is making it hard for you to sew, then you might want to spray the edges with a starch spray.It will wash out the first time you wash your finished project, so it will help to keep them stable when you sew.
Step 18: When cutting along the edges of a pattern, don't pull on the fabric.
If you place pins or paperweights under your pattern, make sure you don't pull on the stretchy fabric when you cut it.The fit and look of your project may be affected by this.